Hi, from a not so new member

For New Members to introduce themselves and their cars.

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Lee
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by Lee » Wed Jan 18, 2017 3:23 pm

Phil,
I think they will make/obtain anything you want in regards to wheel nuts/studs etc. tend to be reasonably priced.
Might be another option, that's all.


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gtcse8
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by gtcse8 » Wed Jan 18, 2017 5:10 pm

Hi Landy

I keep all combination of wheel nuts for scims.

Which type are you planning on using??.

Mark


See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s, GTC, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

Landy109s2a
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by Landy109s2a » Fri Jan 20, 2017 12:58 pm

:?: Se6 Radiator.The rad taken out of my 1980 SE6 (Heap) is not fitted with an "otter switch".No provision for one.Graham Walker replacement comes with a fitment for one. Which is
the correct unit for this car.



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Roger Pennington
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by Roger Pennington » Fri Jan 20, 2017 1:36 pm

Landy109s2a wrote::?: Se6 Radiator.The rad taken out of my 1980 SE6 (Heap) is not fitted with an "otter switch".No provision for one.Graham Walker replacement comes with a fitment for one. Which is the correct unit for this car.
I'm surprised GW didn't ask if you needed one? They will be able to supply the correct unit, together with it's grommet and clip :)


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Landy109s2a
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by Landy109s2a » Fri Jan 20, 2017 4:32 pm

Hi Roger, GW did offer a Hotter Switch for the new Rad.The Rad on my SE6 has no Hotter Switch, or a place to fit one,or any wiring that i can see.The rad is a perfect fit,so i assume it is original 1980's. :w The fan is wired up in the loom,where too, :!: will be the next search. Looks like i will get the old rad recored,and keep the current set-up.



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scimjim
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by scimjim » Fri Jan 20, 2017 4:48 pm

It would have had an otter switch originally.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Roger Pennington
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by Roger Pennington » Fri Jan 20, 2017 4:52 pm

As Jim says, the otter switch was original fit, so the rad can't be original. I guess the acid test is "does the fan work at the moment?" If it does, then it must be wired to a switch somewhere else, if it doesn't work, or you haven't been able to try it yet, then anything might happen! :wink:


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Landy109s2a
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by Landy109s2a » Sun Jan 22, 2017 12:10 pm

gtcse8 wrote:Hi Landy

I keep all combination of wheel nuts for scims.

Which type are you planning on using??.

Mark
Hi Mark, many thanks.I have sent you an e.mail.Regards.



Landy109s2a
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by Landy109s2a » Wed Feb 08, 2017 9:26 pm

:D Steady progress on the Se6(HEAP)Moved today under it's own power.All steel wheels with corect nuts,obtained from "Bill Brighton" at the right price.Engine
bay nearly complete.Just the electrics to sort out.Front brakes with refurbished calipers and pads.Suspension rebushed, and PAS new rubbers fitted.Track
rod ends were OK.Just replaced the perished rubber covers.Worked planned for tomorrow. Fit choke cable to new manual unit.Strip back brakes and replace all parts.
:D Update 15/3/17. Nearly all mechanical work completed.Car now drives and stops.Lets hope it will do the same when it goes for a MOT in a few months
time.Made a start on the inside. :( Transforming it from this sorry state.
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To the leather heated seats. :lol: Fitted on Scimitar seat runners.With a few alterations the same holes in the floor can be used.
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Last edited by Landy109s2a on Fri Mar 17, 2017 4:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.



Landy109s2a
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by Landy109s2a » Thu Mar 16, 2017 5:46 pm

:roll: Somewhere on site is a saved draft on how to fit these seats.Anybody know how to find save drafts.



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scimjim
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Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by scimjim » Thu Mar 16, 2017 8:15 pm

User control panel, overview tab, control drafts sidebar.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Landy109s2a
Posts: 101
Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2016 1:07 pm

Re: Hi, from a not so new member

Post by Landy109s2a » Fri Mar 17, 2017 4:40 pm

Attached photos of a way to fit "Alfa Romeo" seats into a SE6 without drilling new holes in the floor. (1) Remove the Runners and C Section channel from the
Scimitar Seats. (2) Unbolt the runners from the C Section. (3) As shown in the photograph, cut the C Section and bend the metal 180 degrees, and beat into
shape.Best done when metal is heated. But it can be done when metal is cold.Takes a little longer and more difficult. (4) Cut the back of the C Section and
bend inwards, to line up the holes for drilling. (5) You may have to re-drill one of the front holes, as shown in the picture. (6) Re-attach the runners to the
C Section and fit to seat base.The seat base runners should now be the same distance appart. as they have been held in place by the 2 metal bars front and
back, that were welded in place when you started.
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