Restoration of SE6a

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

Moderators: scimjim, Lukeyboy46, erikscimitardemon, Roger Pennington, philhoward

User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 25826
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 78 times
Been thanked: 707 times
Contact:

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by philhoward » Mon May 26, 2014 6:13 am

It might be the inlet manifold gasket gone if using water - but a compression test won't show it.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

User avatar
dcw7095
Posts: 706
Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:17 pm
Location: Nantwich
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 8 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Wed May 28, 2014 11:08 pm

Yes indeed. Thanks for that.


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

robster
Posts: 64
Joined: Thu Feb 13, 2014 3:23 pm
Has thanked: 28 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by robster » Tue Jul 01, 2014 3:12 pm

dcw7095 wrote:
Thanks also for tips on dashboard. Glove box side is already sorted just couldn't get the binacle side worked out. Realised steering wheel needs to come off to allow enough movement of instrument pod. Though hadn't thought about trying to access via the rev counter recess only. Will progress tomorrow.
Trying to remove dash top for repair. How do you remove the rev counter to get access to bolt?



User avatar
Corky
RSSOC Member
Posts: 11370
Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 5:02 am
Location: Macclesfield
Has thanked: 295 times
Been thanked: 229 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by Corky » Tue Jul 01, 2014 6:24 pm

Poke your hand up behind the dash, find the two knurled nuts (one either side) holding the rev counter in place. Undo them with your thumb and finger. Push the rev counter through the dash (from behind) and remove the wires.


Steve
Current:- SS1 Ti RG sprint car, Honda S2000, VW Touareg 3.0 V6
Prev:- Sabre Ti, 3xSS1 Ti, SS1 16v Turbo Racer, 5XGTC, 2XSE6B, 2XSE5A, 2XV6 Coupe, Sabre 6
Project Threads & YouTube

“It's not the winning, it's the taking apart that counts"

User avatar
dcw7095
Posts: 706
Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:17 pm
Location: Nantwich
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 8 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:26 pm

Been offline for a while building up the enthusiasm to tackle the continuous issues with my car - especially after its party trick breakdown when I last visited Josh and Steve O. Thanks to the assistance of a good mate, the alloy timing gear is now fitted and working a treat. The heads were in a sorry state, gaskets had well and truly had had it despite no water in the oil. Had the heads skimmed, my mate then fitted new stem seals and gaskets etc and helped get it all back together. Engine now running better than it ever has :hurrah: .

Replacement gearbox continues to play up and is getting worse (sometimes there is no drive momentarily after selecting the auto shifter prior to pulling away) - still get a slip from 2nd to 3rd. Though remains drive-able for the time being.

And electrics seem to be behaving now too - we have replaced the replacement coil (!), and the Accuspark electronic ignition module then packed in so I have now been reverted back to points etc again :evil: .

Just when we were starting to make progress, looks like the kevlar water hoses that I bought have indeed started to crack only a few hundred miles after fitting (just as many advised they would after I purchased them).

So purpose of this post is to ask your recommendation on silicon hose kits and sources before I go through the 'replacing the already replaced' exercise yet again... :shock:


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 38583
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 155 times
Been thanked: 1052 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by scimjim » Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:31 pm

I'm just rebuilding number one sons 6a and mapped out the water system today (with all of the end fitting sizes and pipe lengths) - will browse ASH (automotive silicone hoses) website whilst pretending to work next week. It's an auto choke with the extra tapping in the inlet manifold and the early water pump with top inlet.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

User avatar
dcw7095
Posts: 706
Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:17 pm
Location: Nantwich
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 8 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:47 pm

That could be useful thanks. I have replaced all the vacuum hoses on my 914 using supplies from ASH and they were very good. My GTE has the auto-choke, not sure about the inlet manifold / pump, though I have a new water pump ready to fit so will need to check that (from memory I think it needs the pulley from the existing pump before it can be fitted, though can't remember where the inlet is).


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 38583
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 155 times
Been thanked: 1052 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by scimjim » Mon Oct 20, 2014 9:01 pm

will try and write this into a sticky sometime but if we just consider the 6 series for now (with no top inlet on the water pump) and ignore a modified system (normally to 5a spec), the only variable is auto or manual choke.

there are several ways to skin this particular cat - this is how I did it.

so the engine side of things has either 16mm ID pipes (let's conveniently ignore the fact that they were 5/8" when new as they're marketed in metric terms now!) - that's the autochoke and the water pump rear inlet, or 13mm pipes - thermostat bypass and heater matrix.

there is a choice here - run 13mm hose and step up where required, or run 16mm hose and step down. I opted for 16mm and wish I'd gone with 13mm as I have a modified system and end up with two pipes by the distributor (as a 5a would), which gets a bit tight.

so (assuming you go with 13mm hose) you need:

1. a 13mm 90 degree bend to come out of the heater (like this)
2. a 13/13 plastic joiner (like this) to connect to
3. about 1m of 13mm pipe (like this) to go under the exhaust manifold to
4. another 13/13 plastic joiner to connect to
5. a 16/13 reducer (like this) to connect to the rear of the water pump.

6. a straight 13mm pipe can come from the other heater matrix connection, along the top of the inlet manifold and with a 90 degree plastic joiner, go round the dizzy to the thermostat bypass connection. If you have an autochoke, you need to step-up both 13mm to 16mm at the carb with 16/13 reducer hoses and 13mm joiners.

this pic isn't much good for reference to the above because I have an autochoke, inlet manifold tapping and top inlet on the water pump. I also went with a 90 degree silicone hose to go round the dizzy.

Image

the other part of the system is the connections to and from the rad.

the thermostat output is 45mm, so this needs

7. a reducer to get from 45mm to the 38mm of the top pipe (like this)

at the other end of the top pipe you need

8. a 90 degree reducer bend to get from the 38mm down to the rad pipe 35mm (like this)

the bottom pipe is a bit more complicated. First, the water pump outlet and bottom pipe are 38mm but (going from past accounts - I haven't actually fitted this bit yet) you need

9. a 90 degree AND a 45 degree pipe to get the correct angles (looks to me as if they will need quite a bit of trimming)

you can't get plastic joiners this big, so you need

10. a short alloy 38mm joiner like this

11. the bottom pipe to rad is another 90 degree 38/35mm reducer elbow.

Image

Obviously I have fitted new clips all round - and with the number of joints I think that's about 26!!

appreciate it if someone could do a sanity check while I watch the walking dead :-)
Last edited by scimjim on Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

User avatar
dcw7095
Posts: 706
Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:17 pm
Location: Nantwich
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 8 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:20 am

Thanks for that Jim. I ended up fitting the remaining kevlar heater hoses I had just to get the car back on the road and MoT'd (it passed :D ) but do want to change all the hoses to silicon equivalents over the course of the winter.


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 38583
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 155 times
Been thanked: 1052 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by scimjim » Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:28 pm

just re-read it and changed number 11 to a reducer elbow.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

User avatar
Roger Pennington
RSSOC Member
Posts: 20304
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:43 pm
Has thanked: 168 times
Been thanked: 561 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by Roger Pennington » Sat Oct 25, 2014 9:24 pm

Minor point, but I think you've got the pipes on the wrong ends of the metal top hose, in the photo. The acute bend goes into the reducer, and the right angle goes down towards the rad - like this: :)
Yellow Peril Engine.jpg
Yellow Peril Engine.jpg (110.39 KiB) Viewed 2070 times


....Roger

RSSOC member (since 1982)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Image

"Condition can be bought at any time; Originality, once lost, is gone forever" - Doug Nye

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 38583
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 155 times
Been thanked: 1052 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by scimjim » Sat Oct 25, 2014 10:32 pm

didn't even notice which end I put them on Roger - the two rad pipes were next to each other and the thermostat & water pump pipes at the other end.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

User avatar
dcw7095
Posts: 706
Joined: Fri Feb 26, 2010 11:17 pm
Location: Nantwich
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 8 times

Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sun Oct 26, 2014 10:55 pm

Dropped the engine oil out today now that I have put some miles on the car following the heads being scimmed and alloy timing gear being fitted. I know the oil we put in was cheap 10W 40 on the basis that it would be coming back out quickly....however the difference with some 20W 50 in it now is unreal. Much quieter, and much better oil pressure, and temp gauge running bang on 90 now as the norm rather than slightly above. Probably all quite obvious really, but nonetheless an object lesson unless you live in really cold climes.


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

Ray5576
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2019 10:39 pm
Has thanked: 2 times

Restoration of SE6a

Post by Ray5576 » Sun Dec 01, 2019 5:31 pm

Dave, very informative and very well written history of the restoration. i bought this car in August this year, haven't used it much as i'm abroad at the moment.
Cheers Ray.
IMG_20190811_130654077_HDR.jpg
IMG_20190811_130654077_HDR.jpg (336.67 KiB) Viewed 246 times



User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 38583
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 155 times
Been thanked: 1052 times

Restoration of SE6a

Post by scimjim » Sun Dec 01, 2019 9:02 pm

Welcome to the forum Ray - I saw Dave’s car at Curborough a few years ago and it was quite a nice one. A pity that photobucket has corrupted many of the photos.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Post Reply

Return to “Project Progress”