Restoration of SE6a

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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Aug 27, 2013 2:59 pm

Hi Dave saw the car at Curbs, looked very smart there wasn't anyone with it though, so I'm afraid I missed you. :(
I'm another of the people who runs with the kickdown cable disconnected, I can't really see that it does much that's useful. The original Reliant connection at the carb end is very crude, bearing in mind that the cable needs to be set-up with some slack. Many years ago I had a C3-equipped Ford, and that had a nice parallelogram-type linkage to ensure that the cable only started moving when required.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Tue Sep 03, 2013 12:42 am

ScimmyMike wrote:From what I saw Dave the temp wire didn't have much insulation left on it, guess it could have shorted, I'd get the end section replaced, change the fuse and see if it happens again, if it does there is something else shorting to blow the fuse, oh and don't forget to insulate that oil pressure pipe when you fit it
Yes, agree. I have some further work to get on with now. I am back from holiday today so hope to get things sorted this coming weekend...
scimjim wrote:if the temp sender wire shorts, it will just put the gauge to max - it won't blow any fuses. still needs replacing though :-)

look at the wiring diagram and see which fuse affects indicators and voltage stabiliser (if fuel and temp gauges are what you mean by "all") - favourite suspect would be a dodgy contact in the fuse box.
I cleaned all the contacts and replaced several fuses but to no avail this time. So I have some further investigation to do at the weekend (the fuse holder was quite tight when mounted in my replacement perspex footwell board, and my clock hasn't worked for several months so could all be related).
Roger Pennington wrote:Hi Dave saw the car at Curbs, looked very smart there wasn't anyone with it though, so I'm afraid I missed you. :(
I'm another of the people who runs with the kickdown cable disconnected, I can't really see that it does much that's useful. The original Reliant connection at the carb end is very crude, bearing in mind that the cable needs to be set-up with some slack. Many years ago I had a C3-equipped Ford, and that had a nice parallelogram-type linkage to ensure that the cable only started moving when required.
Sorry to have missed you too Roger! The kick-down cable will remain in the parts bin until I have the other gremlins ironed out, and its new gearbox properly set up / adjusted. I might well follow suit and not bother re-installing it.


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'79 SE6a Auto


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:25 pm

Some months have passed with various work challenges getting in the way and another ongoing restoration project. However spent this afternoon on the GTE (which is sitting in the garage rather sorry for itself given that the dreaded micro-blistering is appearing in my nice paint..) :(.

Finally resolved the electrical problems. Took the fuse box apart and traced the wiring up the footwell only to discover the ignition feed had another wire attached to it. Except attached is stretching the definition. Some insulation had been cut away, a wire connected by wrapping it around the main wire, and some tape secured over it. Guess that's what you get when you spend £1000 having your car rewired... :evil: If the guy who did the work hadn't gone out of business in the past 24 months, I would be going back to ensure that he was permanently out of business. So-called professional...

Anyway, all my dash gauges are back online, and the engine now purrs like it hasn't before. Amazing what some proper connectors and a decent crimping tool achieves.

Major issue that I need to resolve is that the driver's door lock has jammed in the locked position. Pulling the internal release or internal link knob makes no difference. Having spent 2 hours prodding various parts of the linkage using the gap for the window, I have had to give up. Not sure if it is the barrel or the main lock mechanism.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by scimjim » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:29 pm

bugger - on 3 counts :-(

was the car outside over winter?

do you know anyone with voodoo links to sort out the "electrician"? :-)

sounds like the lock problem could be the main mechanism - is the locking button actually moving up and down or is it seized?


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:33 pm

It's common. Take the lock button off and see if you can open a gap at the door card top to see the mechanism. Spray some proper penetrating fluid at it and using a pair of bull nose pliers, exercise the lock rod up and down vigourously ove a period of hours or days. At some point, you should hear the mechanism click and you are in. Now you have to strip the lot, clean, lubricate and re-install it.

I am just doing exactly this for a customer at the moment.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:36 pm

scimjim wrote:bugger - on 3 counts :-(

was the car outside over winter?

do you know anyone with voodoo links to sort out the "electrician"? :-)

sounds like the lock problem could be the main mechanism - is the locking button actually moving up and down or is it seized?
Car was outside in the winter months (yes). Having run out of garage space. Bit frustrating. I think the electrician has had his come-up-ance given that he is no longer trading. Just makes me worried what else I haven't found yet.

The locking button moves a few millimeters but nowhere near the full travel.
AJL Electronics wrote:It's common. Take the lock button off and see if you can open a gap at the door card top to see the mechanism. Spray some proper penetrating fluid at it and using a pair of bull nose pliers, exercise the lock rod up and down vigourously ove a period of hours or days. At some point, you should hear the mechanism click and you are in. Now you have to strip the lot, clean, lubricate and re-install it.

I am just doing exactly this for a customer at the moment.
That's exactly what I was doing...in the vein hope that it might actually achieve something :shock:


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Mar 30, 2014 8:40 pm

It will go eventually. Just use proper oil rather than WD snake oil. You might need to be fairly rough with it. The one I am working on had been attempted by a mainstream garage. When it all came apart, the mechanism had been bent, by application of idiots bearing blunt objects.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:10 pm

ok thanks. I will persevere.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sun Apr 06, 2014 8:03 pm

Got the lock sorted and despite it playing up this afternoon seems to be ok now. Had it apart, cleaned and lubricated etc.

Picked up the timing gear set from Steve and Josh. But broke down outside their garage :oops:

Steve was a star in the pouring rain and helped me get it started again. All that seemed to be the issue was a suspect connection by the coil (the coil has been replaced twice, along with HT leads, condensor, points etc). The car sounds as if it is running on 5 cylinders, and has reverted to its previous habit of conking out as soon as it is hot and drive is selected. The replacement gearbox still has an issue with the 2nd to 3rd upshift which may be resolved with band adjustment. However the torque convertor is the same unit that was mated to the original gearbox that I had issue with so not sure if this is contributing or not.

Having gone down so many routes of investigation and still have the car play up, I really do despair. It needs to go to someone who understands Scimitars and can help me iron out the remaining gremlins.


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'79 SE6a Auto


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Apr 06, 2014 10:04 pm

Second to third is likely to be the governer. I assume it is not changing up until you back off the throttle? Torque converter is unlikely to be the culprit.

Stalling when hot sounds like a carb gasket leak to me. Try spraying something volatile like brake fluid cleaner at the joint to the manifold.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Apr 06, 2014 10:16 pm

Could there be a common link there? The gearchange modulation on the C3 is controlled by a vacuum unit connected to the rear manifold takeoff by the little "pig's-tail" pipe - a leak here could potentially affect both gearchanging and engine running? Worth testing for leaks in that area too?


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sun Apr 06, 2014 10:26 pm

The governor, I suspect, is inside the box rather than something that is accessible externally? The impression (and sound) I get is of clutch slip when it goes to change up. A light throttle / slight lift normally has it change up fine thereafter.

From the schematic I have there are several carb gaskets....? The only one I have replaced is the one below the air filter pan. However, I will try the brake fluid cleaner test. Thanks


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sun Apr 06, 2014 10:30 pm

Roger Pennington wrote:Could there be a common link there? The gearchange modulation on the C3 is controlled by a vacuum unit connected to the rear manifold takeoff by the little "pig's-tail" pipe - a leak here could potentially affect both gearchanging and engine running? Worth testing for leaks in that area too?
Some of that pipe has been replaced already Roger (only reason I know is that Graham Walker's couldn't find reference to it on a schematic and claimed it didn't exist.. :roll: ). Gearbox has new vacuum diaphragm unit too. Open to trying anything now though.


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'79 SE6a Auto


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Apr 06, 2014 10:51 pm

The governer lives in the tail. Worth trying an oil and filter change though. If it changes up when the throttle is backed off, it's sensing the vacuum correctly.

Carb needs one conventional gasket, then the spacer, then two cut gaskets. Worth going around the fixing nuts, they can be loose.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sun May 25, 2014 9:25 pm

Some progress this past few days thanks to the assistance of a mate (former army mechanic) who has helped troubleshoot the various gremlins I have been facing on the GTE.

1. Timing was way-off and fuel mixture way too lean contributing to the car overheating

2. Replacement for the replacement coil was arc-ing out in the wet between the poles :shock: - so now have a replacement for the replacement for the replacement...

3. New timing gear now fitted (thanks again Steve Bryant / Jim). Lovely and surprisingly quiet. Old fibre gear on way out to recycling...

4. Part of the distributor wiring had been trapped under a cam cover so needed replacing :oops:

5. Fitted my Accuspark electronic ignition

6. Carb jets all cleaned out and mixture reset so it finally idles properly

When cold I passed it off as warming up. Once warm I have some ominous white smoke on the nearside bank. So my early suspicion of head gasket could be a possibility, equally the overheating may have damaged the head... :(
So will wait to see what my friendly mechanic has to say (who actually knows what he is doing - as opposed to the local garages paid a fortune for not knowing any of the basics). Will find out once he does a compression test etc in the coming week.

Gearbox is still slipping on change to third but not as bad. Not convinced the box is happy though - various dubious noises occasionally from below. Can feel a manual conversion coming if problems persist.

Anyway, some progress at last. I think I have managed to find all the local charlatans during the course of this build, so hoping that my luck will finally change once the heads and box are sorted.


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

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