Restoration of SE6a

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ScimmyMike
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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by ScimmyMike » Sat Aug 17, 2013 10:28 am

dcw7095 wrote:
dcw7095 wrote:Has anyone else had need to rejet the carbs following an exhaust change, and if so who can I source jets from that knows what they are doing? Or is it a rolling road job?
bump...
If you make it down to curbs there is a rolling road here bet those guys can sort you out Dave


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Aug 17, 2013 1:12 pm

Latest is that having spent £51 getting a kick-down cable delivered from QRG for this morning, I discover that it is either the wrong cable or the car has been modified (the bracket at the carb end is completely unsuitable for the new cable). So I am running without one for the moment (can still use stick down change). The car is noticeably smoother but as it changes up to second (or is it third?) it slips slightly before picking up. It also is still suffering from bogging down on higher revs. I need to change the ballast resister to eliminate it from probabilities. Next up, I now have a chewed up oil pipe for the pressure gauge which seems to have been damaged when the garage were working on the new manifolds, non-functioning pressure gauge now too! And the icing on the cake is that it is now running hot and eventually overheating whilst stationary again despite new radiator and pipes :bh

So 'if I get to Curbs' is probably the appropriate statement. Seems to be just one thing after another...


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by ScimmyMike » Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:21 pm

Noticed walkers had a c3 kickdown cable on their stall want me to hold it for you Dave.
You sure don't seem to be having much luck with this car at the moment gutted for you matey


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by MickP » Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:35 pm

Your slipping when changing up is probably just the brake band needing adusted up a bit - very few people seem to bother doing it for some reason :? . If not then it might be low fluid.

I (and others) run without a kickdown as it is, in my opinion, just a pain in the ar5e. My 6a will change up at 4k rpm on full throttle without it and if you need to change down at highish speed/revs then just use the stick (as you have said).

EDIT: Fast Road Cars are good for Weber parts. You can see their shop on eBay:

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/FAST-ROAD-CARS ... 7675.l2563

Michael.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:50 pm

ScimmyMike wrote:Noticed walkers had a c3 kickdown cable on their stall want me to hold it for you Dave.
You sure don't seem to be having much luck with this car at the moment gutted for you matey
I need to get another opinion on the mounting bracket by the carb. Need someone with a 6a to compare it to. If it has been bodged/modified in the past then another C3 cable probably won't make any difference, assuming Nigel sent me the right one. The other give-away is that the workshop manual suggests that the cable should only have 0.5mm to 1.5.. mm play in it...the old cable had somewhere between 1-2.5 inches of play in it and was wound back to the furthermost part of the thread... :shock:

Until the engine is running right I am going to leave the cable off per Michael's suggestion anyway. I need to work out what the hell is wrong with the cooling set up. I need to investigate some of the wiring I think to the temperature sensor. Also need to convince myself that the thermostat is working correctly, though water does seem to circulate ok. Worryingly, I found a thread on another forum about the torque converter clutch / solenoid causing similar issues with the engine overheating. Whilst I have your replacement box nicely in situ it has the old converter and bell housing off of my original box....as you say though it is rather sapping every last bit of enthusiasm out of me :(

Thanks also for the suggestions Michael. Now that I have done 20 miles in it, the fluid levels will need checking. And I do suspect that the bands aren't quite right, it is otherwise very smooth.


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by ScimmyMike » Sat Aug 17, 2013 6:52 pm

I've still got the c3 auto throttle bracket on the gte if you want a gander tomorrow


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by MickP » Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:11 pm

Don't know if you can see it properly (might be better in the "flesh" on Mike's tomorrow):
Kickdown.jpg
Kickdown.jpg (120.9 KiB) Viewed 1573 times
The lever on the carb linkage has had a hole drilled further towards the shaft in an attempt to get it to work a bit "better" and some notches made to stop the cable end hitting it as it is rotated. I gave up on it as I could not get it to work the way I wanted.

Michael.


SOLD: 1978 SE6a Auto.
1997 Ducati 900SS - Last carb. model.
SOLD: 1960 BSA Bantam D7 - more "fun" than the Ducati.
1998 Honda CG125 - great in slow traffic.
1981 Suzuki SB200 2-stroke twin - undergoing rebuild.
Gallery Project
“Technological progress has merely provided us with more efficient means for going backwards.” - Aldous Huxley.

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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:47 pm

I had an argument with the garage earlier today about the way I was trying to fit the kick-down cable. I was trying to fit the end with the 'bead' at the carb and expecting the bracketed end to connect to the box. However they took the old cable off and swore blind that it should be the other way around... judging by your picture Michael you have the beaded end mounting to the bracket by the carb and not the 'U' bracket end - or I am mistaken? As that was what I had in mind too...


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by MickP » Sat Aug 17, 2013 7:55 pm

It is not very clear in the picture, but the end at the carb. is the "U" type cable end with a pin that goes through it. You can see the head of the pin but not much else.

Michael.


SOLD: 1978 SE6a Auto.
1997 Ducati 900SS - Last carb. model.
SOLD: 1960 BSA Bantam D7 - more "fun" than the Ducati.
1998 Honda CG125 - great in slow traffic.
1981 Suzuki SB200 2-stroke twin - undergoing rebuild.
Gallery Project
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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Aug 17, 2013 9:07 pm

In which case mine has been modified / wrong cable as there wasn't enough length in it to reach the mounting pin bracket that you describe...hopefully I will make it down to Curbs tomorrow and can compare notes with a few folks then. For now I will run without. Thanks.


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sun Aug 18, 2013 8:57 pm

Car made it to Curbs :D though blew the ignition circuit fuse on the way there requiring a hasty replacement to restore temperature gauge and indicators... :shock:

Jim King and Geoff Cooper helped pinpoint an issue with the wiring to my replacement coil and dutifully re-worked it properly. Thank you guys.

The car now has a new ballast resistor and voltage stabiliser and behaved itself remarkably all the way home from Curbs. It was a novelty seeing the temp gauge sitting at 90-110 degrees rather than off the scale.

Two problems remain though; my fuel tank is pressuring up (can hear it expand :shock: ) and there is a corresponding woosh when you open the filler cap....I know that there is supposed to be a breather hole on the cap, but where specifically? I couldn't see one on the cap I have (which may have been rechromed at some point. Can someone confirm what I am looking for please?

Second, I was less than a mile from home and all the gauges died again (along with my indicators). Changed the fuse (in fact most of the fuses to be safe) and no difference.... surely my new voltage stabiliser wouldn't cause no reading at all it there were a fault with it? Or does this sound more like an ignition switch issue? Engine carries on running fine. My head temperature sensor wire is toast or at least not in good shape and needs replacing. I wouldn't have thought though that that could trip everything?


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by Coupe Racing » Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:04 pm

The fuel cap breather is a small hole in the centre of the inner face of the cap


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sun Aug 18, 2013 9:09 pm

Cheers I wondered if that was it though couldn't see how it vented to the outside. Sounds like I need to get a needle into the breather hole and clean it out...


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


"To achieve anything, you must be prepared to dabble on the boundary of disaster." Stirling Moss

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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by ScimmyMike » Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:21 am

From what I saw Dave the temp wire didn't have much insulation left on it, guess it could have shorted, I'd get the end section replaced, change the fuse and see if it happens again, if it does there is something else shorting to blow the fuse, oh and don't forget to insulate that oil pressure pipe when you fit it


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by scimjim » Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:46 am

if the temp sender wire shorts, it will just put the gauge to max - it won't blow any fuses. still needs replacing though :-)

look at the wiring diagram and see which fuse affects indicators and voltage stabiliser (if fuel and temp gauges are what you mean by "all") - favourite suspect would be a dodgy contact in the fuse box.


Jim King

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