Restoration of SE6a

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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Aug 10, 2013 10:53 am

Traced it to faulty column switch unfortunately. PIcks its time to pack in. Anyway my friendly MoT station has given me a pass on the basis that I am wiring a button to the dash for now until I locate a replacement column switch. What it did mean was that I could take the car out and road test it following us fitting the gearbox. Two things are not quite right, kick-down which needs adjustment and it isn't running cleanly when I accelerate - starts to miss. Is it reasonable to assume that I need different jets on the carb now that I have fitted the tubular manifolds?


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'79 SE6a Auto


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by tony.idle » Sat Aug 10, 2013 11:45 am

It is possible with a little care to repair the column switch - take it off & have a close look at it - you should be able to see what's needed. You may or may not need to alter carb jetting but either way that will not cause a misfire. At worst the car will be unnoticeably down on power when the throttles are wide open. Not running cleanly when you accelerate could be due to the carb accelerator pump not working (big flat spot when you floor the throttle) or weak HT (plugs / leads / coil / ballast). Can you describe the symptoms in more detail?


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:54 pm

tony.idle wrote:It is possible with a little care to repair the column switch - take it off & have a close look at it - you should be able to see what's needed. You may or may not need to alter carb jetting but either way that will not cause a misfire. At worst the car will be unnoticeably down on power when the throttles are wide open. Not running cleanly when you accelerate could be due to the carb accelerator pump not working (big flat spot when you floor the throttle) or weak HT (plugs / leads / coil / ballast). Can you describe the symptoms in more detail?
The car is noticeably down on power when the throttles are open. It pulls away cleanly and just as the autobox changes up and I continue accelerating it starts labouring / giving the sensation of it missing - properly more accurate to say that on start up it is really smooth, but as you accelerate it bogs down (in as much as the impression is that more loud pedal doesn't result in any further acceleration. It could also be related to the kick-down adjustment as that isn't right yet either. However I can manually change down to get it to accelerate and eventually the same happens where the car starts bogging down rather than progressing cleanly. Plugs, leads and coil have all been changed in the past 100 miles. Ballast resistor though hasn't.


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by Roger Pennington » Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:10 pm

What's the symptom of the kick-down problem?


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:17 pm

Roger Pennington wrote:What's the symptom of the kick-down problem?
Car pulls away smoothly and if I use too much loud pedal it wants to change down rather than up. Once It has changed up I need to use too much of a sudden movement to get it to kick down again. Not convinced that the cable is adjusted properly and/or the bands on the box.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by scimjim » Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:21 pm

Sounds like the cable is too tight?


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by Roger Pennington » Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:32 pm

Kickdown only controls downchanges at full throttle - your description sounds a bit as though it might be referring to the normal downchanges, which are controlled by the vacuum link to the manifold (and an air leak there could affect the engine's running?)


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Aug 10, 2013 7:54 pm

I was suspecting the same as Jim though won't be able to investigate further before Monday. The vacuum hoses have all been replaced when Mike's box was fitted. However it isn't beyond the realms of possibility that there is still a leak on one of the connectors. Hope it is straight forward either way.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by Roger Pennington » Sat Aug 10, 2013 8:09 pm

There should be some slack in the cable, to ensure that it only works kickdown at full throttle. A simple way to check would be to disconnect the cable. The box should then work perfectly, except that kickdown won't be available at full throttle. If it still displays the fault, then the fault lies elsewhere.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by tony.idle » Sat Aug 10, 2013 8:35 pm

dcw7095 wrote:
tony.idle wrote:It is possible with a little care to repair the column switch - take it off & have a close look at it - you should be able to see what's needed. You may or may not need to alter carb jetting but either way that will not cause a misfire. At worst the car will be unnoticeably down on power when the throttles are wide open. Not running cleanly when you accelerate could be due to the carb accelerator pump not working (big flat spot when you floor the throttle) or weak HT (plugs / leads / coil / ballast). Can you describe the symptoms in more detail?
The car is noticeably down on power when the throttles are open. It pulls away cleanly and just as the autobox changes up and I continue accelerating it starts labouring / giving the sensation of it missing - properly more accurate to say that on start up it is really smooth, but as you accelerate it bogs down (in as much as the impression is that more loud pedal doesn't result in any further acceleration. It could also be related to the kick-down adjustment as that isn't right yet either. However I can manually change down to get it to accelerate and eventually the same happens where the car starts bogging down rather than progressing cleanly. Plugs, leads and coil have all been changed in the past 100 miles. Ballast resistor though hasn't.
It sounds like blocked, or partially blocked, main jets. First check would be for dirt/water in the float chamber or main jets, next check the filter on the carb fuel inlet, then the pump/filter. After that slacken the fuel pipe connection to the carb, start it, then pull the connection off & aim it into a suitable container to check pump operation. Your more detailed description doesn't suggest anything wrong with the ignition so you can assume the ballast resistor is OK.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by tony.idle » Sat Aug 10, 2013 8:46 pm

Roger Pennington wrote:There should be some slack in the cable, to ensure that it only works kickdown at full throttle. A simple way to check would be to disconnect the cable. The box should then work perfectly, except that kickdown won't be available at full throttle. If it still displays the fault, then the fault lies elsewhere.
If the test suggested by Roger shows that the 'box works perfectly (without kickdown) then set the k/d cable adjustment as follows: wedge the throttle pedal fully down (engine off or it gets very noisy & frightening :)); check by pulling on the K/D cable that you can feel the 'notch' that indicates it's in the K/D position (or that the cable is fully extended); then reconnect the K/D cable so that it's in the K/D position only when the throttle pedal is fully depressed.


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:25 pm

Many thanks everyone. Will report back once I have investigated further.


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Fri Aug 16, 2013 11:28 am

The good news is that my kick-down cable was jamming so that is confirmed as being kaput. The bad news is that it took me to find a replacement via QRG this morning now that I am back from a work trip. The garage were told by Walkers that 'you couldn't get them anymore' and that they would speak to the previous manufacturers etc. Not overly impressed with Walkers recently. They swore blind that one of the gearbox gaskets that I needed didn't exist and because one of the vacuum pipes wasn't on their microfiche that that didn't exist either.... :evil:

So I should have a new kick-down cable on my door mat tomorrow morning and hope to have it fitted before coming down to Curbs Sunday. On the 'bogging down' issue we have been over the car diligently and have come to the conclusion that it must be carb related / jets. Checked vacuum pipes, exhaust sealing, dizzy, timing, re-set points etc...Has anyone else had need to rejet the carbs following an exhaust change, and if so who can I source jets from that knows what they are doing? Or is it a rolling road job?


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'79 SE6a Auto


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by dcw7095 » Sat Aug 17, 2013 10:19 am

dcw7095 wrote:Has anyone else had need to rejet the carbs following an exhaust change, and if so who can I source jets from that knows what they are doing? Or is it a rolling road job?
bump...


Dave Watson
'79 SE6a Auto


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Re: Restoration of SE6a

Post by Coupe Racing » Sat Aug 17, 2013 10:21 am

Southern Carbs ( Google ) can supply jets - but it will be hit and miss - and a rolling road is at Curborough this weekend so they could identify your problem ?


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