Lozzzzzzz's Omega LPG powered SE6a with added balljoints

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

Moderators: scimjim, philhoward, erikscimitardemon, Roger Pennington, Lukeyboy46

lozzzzzz
Posts: 1332
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:23 pm
Location: Westmids
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 12 times

Lozzzzzzz's Omega LPG powered SE6a with added balljoints

Post by lozzzzzz » Sat Feb 12, 2011 10:48 pm

I had an idea, and it goes a bit like this.

Had some old Supra bits lying around, they're strong! supra weighs 1600kg
Image

Choppy Choppy
Image
Image

I love messing around with the lathe
Image

There's a step in the part to ensure the suspension can't collapse if the welds (yet to come) should fail
Image
Image
Image

Turned a 10mm steel plate to suit the ball joint mount, these will be welded together
Image
Image

Cut the bottom off the upright, it took forever, they are VERY strong, no wonder they're so much to buy
Image

Then went about making up the new caliper mounts that will drop lower than the last ones to meet the ball joint mount
Image
Image

More to come, I'm hoping to get it all welded up tomorrow. The lower wishbone and shock mount are next, but that might have to wait a bit.
Last edited by lozzzzzz on Sun May 15, 2011 7:10 pm, edited 5 times in total.


loz

User avatar
peter freeman
RSSOC Member
Posts: 9371
Joined: Thu Aug 31, 2006 12:12 pm
Location: Newcastle
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 315 times
Contact:

Re: Replacing the Trunions

Post by peter freeman » Sun Feb 13, 2011 3:23 pm

Interesting - I hope your welding skills are better than mine. GW designed a conplete bolt on replacement for the front suspension some time ago but if never got to production. The only negative I could see in the design was that you had to change all of your wheel to use it which added to the cost too much.
Peter



lozzzzzz
Posts: 1332
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:23 pm
Location: Westmids
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Replacing the Trunions

Post by lozzzzzz » Sun Feb 13, 2011 6:10 pm

Got it finshed today, got all the holes drilled and upright bits cut to shape. I used a "drill doctor" drill bit sharpener and I cant sing its praises enough. I sharpened one 10mm bit and put a "split point" on the end face. It then drill 16 holes through 10mm plate without so much as a pilot hole and its still cutting fine.

Anyway here are some pics of the finished uprights.
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

It took a while to get the end of the caliper mount to the right angle for the correct king pin angle.
Image
Image
Image
Image

Took them to a friends house as he has a beast of a welder and got them all welded up added so webs. I was a bit worried the bits from the supra uprights might not have welded but it welded beautifully. As a test I welded something to the supra upright and beat the s*** out of it with a hammer, I welds just fine!
Image
Image
Image
Image

Can't wait to make the wishbone mounts next.

the brackets I had made a little while ago are up for grabs now. I'll do another post for them soon.


loz

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 35886
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 113 times
Been thanked: 821 times

Re: Replacing the Trunions

Post by scimjim » Sun Feb 13, 2011 6:13 pm

great work but I dread to see your insurance quote :shock:


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

User avatar
Roger Pennington
RSSOC Member
Posts: 19291
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:43 pm
Has thanked: 118 times
Been thanked: 450 times

Re: Replacing the Trunions

Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Feb 13, 2011 6:41 pm

Without wanting to sound negative, it's a fascinating piece of work, but I can't help feeling that it seems a bit like a solution in search of a problem. If you really want to get rid of the trunnions wouldn't the kind of solution followed by Ben on the Scimi-Lexus be an awful lot easier? See the forum thread here and His webpage here. They used a Jaguar upright complete and Jag lower wishbones, this not only got rid of the trunnion but gave them vented discs in the package. It still required some modification, (I know they had to adjust the steering arm lengths for example, not sure about the wishbones) but it's more of a complete, proven, package.


....Roger

RSSOC member (since 1982)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Image

"Condition can be bought at any time; Originality, once lost, is gone forever" - Doug Nye

lozzzzzz
Posts: 1332
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:23 pm
Location: Westmids
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Replacing the Trunions

Post by lozzzzzz » Sun Feb 13, 2011 7:07 pm

Roger,

I think you've hit the nail on the head! The trunions aren't that bad really as long as they're well maintained. And the Jaguar conversion looks very nice.

But I became a bit sceptical of it after trawling for the right bits and finding the the ball joint would be considerably higher than the trunions origianl position (although the proof of their working is clear to see), that and it was kinda tricky finding the bits cheaply.

The other reasons for doing it were, cost of parts (I had all this stuff lying around and metal cost £10), and I really like doing something different, and I love using the lathe.

Having said all that my trunion bushes (replaced 3 years ago) need doing again and this comes out cheaper and a whole lot lower maintainance, and (fingers crossed) a lot stringer.

Thanks for the comments folks, I know its sad, but I'm always checking to see what people have said.


loz

User avatar
franko14
Posts: 727
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 1:14 pm
Location: Scotland/Brazil
Been thanked: 2 times

Re: Replacing the Trunions

Post by franko14 » Sun Feb 13, 2011 7:16 pm

fab bit of fabbing 8)

always nice to see folk trying new things and experimenting, i look forward to seeing how you progress and hearing your thoughts on the outcome.


cheers,
Frank

Se6a GTE Auto 3702
'88 Saab 900 Turbo S

lozzzzzz
Posts: 1332
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:23 pm
Location: Westmids
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Replacing the Trunions

Post by lozzzzzz » Sat Mar 12, 2011 9:57 pm

The lower wishbones are getting there now, took me a while just looking at it :) Still got to weld on the shock mounts, steering stops and anti roll bar mounts. Hopefully tomorrow if I can get all my work finished first :(

Cut and drilled 4 of these plates, the whole time they were clamped togther with mull grips (spelling?)
Image

After much thought I marked them up and cut them to slot through the ball joint mating face:
Image
Image
Image

Then tacked and welded them up, as I said there's still much to do, its been a real weld-a-thon today and I've just about had enough for a while:
Image
Image
Image
Image

The poor car hasn't been this apart in my ownership.
Image


loz

lozzzzzz
Posts: 1332
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:23 pm
Location: Westmids
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Replacing the Trunions more pics

Post by lozzzzzz » Sun Mar 13, 2011 9:23 pm

Made some more progress today, they're nearly done now, these represent so much of my time, its getting rediculus, and I haven't even started on the major chassis work yet........ but its so much fun!

Image
Image
Image

And here are some recylced wishbone mounts for hte shocks to mount
Image
Image

And some anti-roll bar mounts
Image
Image
Image
Image

It was convinient that the anti roll bar tie links reversed so I could weld the brackets on more neatly than the original parts to save a tiny bit of weight on these already pretty heavy wishbones

More to come, maybe next weekend, I might get the front section of the chassis cleaned up and painted too.


loz

User avatar
franko14
Posts: 727
Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 1:14 pm
Location: Scotland/Brazil
Been thanked: 2 times

Re: Replacing the Trunions more pics

Post by franko14 » Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:30 pm

interesting stuff loz
looking forward to hearing how things are progressing and also how it feels on the road.
keep up the good work!!


cheers,
Frank

Se6a GTE Auto 3702
'88 Saab 900 Turbo S

ScimmyMike
RSSOC Member
Posts: 4923
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 5:12 pm
Location: Hyde, Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 113 times

Re: Replacing the Trunions more pics

Post by ScimmyMike » Sun Mar 13, 2011 10:38 pm

Now it may be me being a bit thick here, but as I have had my front suspension apart to replace the broken rear wishbone and mount I couldn't help noticing that your arrangements for the bottom damper fixing bolt would appear to have lifted by about 25mm or so, the existing shock is quite a short stroke already so I would surmise you'll be buying new shorter dampers and a shorter and necessarily stiffer spring, either that or your car will take on the appearance of a preying mantis, also the power steering cars have spacer between the damper pan and underside of the wishbones and washers on all bolts as well, I appeciate that this isn't a final finished job yet, just thought you should be aware, not too sure about the effect the roll bar fixing position would have neither, mine bolted 90 degrees clockwise to where yours is fixed.
Mike


SE4c rebuilding. SE5a similar it seems!
SAAB C900 2 door
Scimitar SE4 SE4c SE5 SE6b Austin A35

High Peak Noggin Secretary & general dogsbody

www.high peak noggin

If you can see the tree before you hit it that's understeer
if you only feel the tree as you hit it that's oversteer

lozzzzzz
Posts: 1332
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:23 pm
Location: Westmids
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Replacing the Trunions more pics

Post by lozzzzzz » Sun Mar 13, 2011 11:03 pm

You're on the ball Mike, I had a good look at that while head scratching (there's been so much head scratching). I've got a set of these AVO dampers for each corner and the fronts have a good 2-3 inches of thread left to lower the car further and the springs are 375lb/in at the front so that keeps movement to a minimum. I do need to check just how short the actual damper itself will go, I think there's room to play with though.

As for the anti roll mounts, aside from the angle change, the actual point of connection is only about 1cm further down the wishbone (away from the chassis) so it'll only serve to (very slighty) increase the anti roll effect. I might have to meddle with this further when trying in vien to set the suspension up.

I've got the same problem with my AVOs that many on here have experienced, At risk of being shouted at for not reading the threads thoroughly enough, do you think these could be pressed into the AVO shock absorbers:?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT

Has anyone done this?

Thanks for following folks, and thanks for the replies.


loz

lozzzzzz
Posts: 1332
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:23 pm
Location: Westmids
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Not just trunnions anymore!

Post by lozzzzzz » Mon Mar 14, 2011 6:33 pm

Another thing ongoing is getting the hubs redrilled for the Caterham wheels:
Image

First thing was to get the hubs off, hmmm:
Image

I added a bit more strength and eventually they came off:
Image
Image

Got the spacers and extended studs from Rally Designs:
Image

Discs redrilled on a roatary table in a local machine shop:
Image
Image

And finally the hubs:
Image
Image

Had to turn off the old brake disc brackets in order to get the studs in:
Image
Image
Image
Image

Next the surface on the back side of the rear hubs needs flattening so that the studs can seat flat.

More to come


loz

lozzzzzz
Posts: 1332
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 3:23 pm
Location: Westmids
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 12 times

Re: Not just trunnions anymore!

Post by lozzzzzz » Sat Mar 19, 2011 11:23 pm

You could have thought up a more suitable name you muppet! I won't be surprised if you get removed, :) The top half of the upright is like a forged pencil, its really strong. The top joint is a ball joint as standard, there seems to be very little to worry about there, so I've left it alone. The Camber is adjusted by way of shims between the top wishbone mount and the chassis. Its a bit fiddly but once its done there's little to go wrong so again I left that bit too.

Good to see you've joined a real wheel drive car forum, selling the mini is the next logical step :):)


loz

User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 24059
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 526 times
Contact:

Re: Not just trunnions anymore!

Post by philhoward » Sun Mar 20, 2011 7:41 am

Yes, WHG...interesting name. If you hadn't posted and proved you're not a spammer then it would have been removed.

You may be both - but we don't really need to know...


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

Post Reply

Return to “Project Progress”