E150 UOL rebuild - End of project :-)

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Re: E150 UOL rebuild

Post by td99 » Fri Nov 08, 2013 6:33 pm

Maybe Mr. Jake would be interested if he's going with a similar setup to yours...


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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - Home made silicone hose

Post by td99 » Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:56 pm

IMAG0039 (Custom).jpg
finished off, setting
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IMAG0038 (Custom).jpg
Initial layer of silicone covered by silicone impregnated glass tape
IMAG0038 (Custom).jpg (137.48 KiB) Viewed 1836 times
So the Silicone tape (4 rolls) arrived and I went to the garage full of enthusiasm (thereby lacking some planning!).
I used some flexible air-ducting as a base, held between two vices to get the right shape. Should have used smaller aluminium tubing at one end, but forgot...
Wrapped this with silicone tape, followed by several layers of woven glass tape. Glass tape was forcefully smeared on both sides with silicone sealer berore applying. More silicone sealer applied manually. Followed this with final layer of silicone tape. Left to harden for 24 hours and then slipped into oven in kitchen when SWMBO went to bed. Baked for 20 mins at 120C.
It feels ok, but of course the proof of the pudding is yet to come.
For an initial effort, I'm not dissatisfied at the outcome. Silicone tape gets used up fast (2 rolls for this at 3.50 pounds each, but even so with sealer and glass, much cheaper and more compact than a couple of pre-formed pieces.)
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IMAG0045 (Custom).jpg
Final item, photo doesn't really show the bends...
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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - USA lights no dip beam?

Post by td99 » Fri Nov 08, 2013 8:06 pm

Impressed by Viv's Sabre headlamps, I purchased a pair from USA for an s13.
Thought I'd check them out and found to my dismay that all units are just main headlamp. no dip beam.
Is this normal for USA cars? Cannot really believe it.
Return no longer possible as they've been in the goody pile here since early 2013.
Solution will be to find 2x dip beam unit I guess.

The plastic housing seems to be an almost perfect fit to the SS1 headlamp panel, either to be bonded in or use as a mold master.
Why do I want these? Well I hate the idea of all the wind resistance of the pop-up lights...and no up/down problems...
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Last edited by td99 on Fri Nov 08, 2013 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Re: E150 UOL rebuild

Post by CNHSS1 » Fri Nov 08, 2013 8:18 pm

td99 wrote:Maybe Mr. Jake would be interested if he's going with a similar setup to yours...
As soon as you passed on it, i got a PM from anotherforum member and its sold :-)


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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - USA lights no dip beam?

Post by CNHSS1 » Fri Nov 08, 2013 8:22 pm

Cracking work on th silicone tube manufacture TD, looks great :-)


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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - Nice and Shiny

Post by td99 » Thu Nov 20, 2014 8:05 pm

Gave the poor car a wash and polish to protect it for the winter, receiving cynical remarks from SWMBO re polishing a car that doesn't even go. 3rd time I've polished it now - does that qualify me for honorary citizenship of Cheshire?
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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - nice and shiny!

Post by CNHSS1 » Thu Nov 20, 2014 8:37 pm

Looking great TD 8) SS1s always look great in white


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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - Nice and Shiny

Post by swoakes » Thu Nov 20, 2014 8:49 pm

td99 wrote:Gave the poor car a wash and polish to protect it for the winter, receiving cynical remarks from SWMBO re polishing a car that doesn't even go. 3rd time I've polished it now - does that qualify me for honorary citizenship of Cheshire?
:roll: Don't you start :wink:


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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - nice and shiny!

Post by td99 » Wed Aug 12, 2015 6:50 pm

Well at least it's not totally ignored - I washed and polished it again today :) as it was looking miserable. This must be a record for a project car I think!
Looks better than it really is, lots of paint cracks in wings, but I assume plastic is not cracked underneath.
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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - nice and shiny!

Post by td99 » Sat Sep 03, 2016 10:13 pm

2016 update!
Well, I washed it again and it was still dirty. So I got some very fine abrasive polish and went over the whole car with an electric polisher. That made a real difference and the whole car looked a lot better. Following that, I gave it a treatment with Jetseal and it looks a lot nicer. Wish it was as nice as it looks in the photo!
Oh, and I had washed it several tines since previous post!
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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - nice and shiny!

Post by td99 » Thu Sep 22, 2016 6:57 pm

I bought a complete DET head and inlet manifold for just 50 euro :) (incl injectors). It makes re-welding of manifold so much easier if it's bolted to a head, so hopefully no distortion of flange. Or maybe even correction of distorted flange...
However it has a sheared stud, being the rearmost and thus important for maintaining overall flatness, sheared about 1.5 mm inside the head, damage looks like it sheared when nut was undone.
Have left it with penetrating oil at moment. Photo does not really show the shear, which is in direction of undoing, not tightening.

My thoughts on extraction:
1. Direct welding to stud not easy as its sunk into aluminium head. Wondering if weld not strong enough to extract stud - since it appears to have sheared on extraction.
2. I do have some of those "miracle broken bolt/stud extractors" with reverse threads, but have rarely had success with them.
3. Carefully drill outw ith slowly increasing drill bits to say 8 mm leaving enough to weld to. Then weld 8 mm bolt to it and hopefully extract. stud is 10 mm. Hopefully the drilling will have weakened the stud and its adhesion to head.

I'm tending to go with alternative 3, but now I'm writing this maybe worth trying 1 first - maybe nothing lost. Do have advantage of TIG welder which at least gives a bit of accuracy.
Advice other ideas welcomed.....
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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - nice and shiny!

Post by Roger Pennington » Thu Sep 22, 2016 7:11 pm

Drill out with left-handed drill bits? (yes they do exist :) )


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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - nice and shiny!

Post by scimjim » Thu Sep 22, 2016 7:19 pm

Left handed drill bit or fluted extractors (like these) for recessed snapped studs


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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - nice and shiny!

Post by philhoward » Thu Sep 22, 2016 9:34 pm

Another vote for left handed drill bits.

Either fluted extractors or just a (cheap) normal Torx bit - the theory being if you use a Torx bit you can still drill it out if it snaps. If it's an extractor, you won't..


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Re: E150 UOL rebuild - nice and shiny!

Post by philhoward » Thu Sep 22, 2016 9:37 pm

If it's an M10 stud, drilling to 8mm won't give much metal left to weld to - 6 or 7mm at most I'd say personally.

If that doesn't give any hope, just go straight for a Helicoil?


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