Joe's 1972 GTE - (NOW IN COLOUR)

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Joe.
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Joe's 1972 GTE - (ENGINE APART - MAYO!)

Post by Joe. » Sat Sep 30, 2017 10:52 am

Coupe' Racing wrote:
Sat Sep 30, 2017 4:27 am
But is the engine problem fixed
The head gasket is fixed, the fan is active much less at idle, the valve clearances will need setting up again and the inlet manifold torque will need checking.

The next post covers some wiring updates which will add wideband 02 sensors, a knock sensor and some other bits. When the bodywork is at a stage I'll get the car back over to a rolling road for a remap.

I'm hoping to have the bodywork at a stage where it can be sprayed in the next six weeks, I've had a quote of £2600-£3200 though which seems a bit high bearing in mind I'm doing a lot of the prep work.



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Post by scimjim » Sat Sep 30, 2017 7:15 pm

a knock sensor?

is forced induction on the cards? :P


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Joe's 1972 GTE - (ENGINE APART - MAYO!)

Post by philhoward » Sat Sep 30, 2017 7:42 pm

Knock sensor can be useful on a N/A engine too especially when the air temp is high or some cr@p fuel finds its way there..or if it gets mapped on Super juice and you use normal 95?


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Post by scimjim » Sat Sep 30, 2017 7:44 pm

that was more a hopeful question than a technical one :-)


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by philhoward » Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:52 pm

The wide and sensors hint at it too ;)

The compression ratio of the engine might say otherwise..?


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Post by Joe. » Sun Oct 01, 2017 10:25 am

No plans for forced induction on this engine, I'd quite like to try supercharging an essex but it won't be done on my everyday car...! Knock sensor is intended to provide some additional protction against fuel / air changes. inlet air temperatures were an issue in the summer when the air temperature sensor actually read as high as 80c on some occasions. At some point I will sort the airbox / filter out but its a job that has been repeatedly delayed by other more pressing jobs.

This post takes a brake from sanding and bodywork and takes a short interlude into the exciting world of world of wiring, This was a job I'd been hoping to tackle in July / August when I had planned to take the car over to the IOW so my mate Dave could give me a hand sorting out the wiring loom to cope with some upgrades...

The head gasket failure left the car immobile for the whole of work's summer shutdown so the opportunity came and went. A revised plan was pencilled in for a weekend in September when both Dave and I were free (rare enough these days.) Typically work then got in the way and we were stood up for production Saturday morning which left me with a day and a half to do what was probably 3 days worth of work.

Rather than cancel I decided to press on and see how much we could get done....

The objective was to modify the ECU wiring loom to accept the following additions: Knock Sensor, Camshaft position sensor, 3 more coil pack wires to allow for sequential ignition and to add twin Wideband 02 controllers, route them through the car, and connect them to the ECU, Then weld a boss to the exhausts to take the 02 sensors and finally test the system.

With the loom stripped off the car we started by running 3 more wires for the coil packs (correct coloured wire was sourced from eBay)

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We then tried adding an extra 2 core shielded wire for the knock sensor and quickly rand into problems with the acrylic protection being too tight to accommodate the extra wires.

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After struggling for a while trying to get the wires through, we decided to take the whole loom apart, this would make running the new cables much easier. Its a Y shape Loom the base of the Y is the ECU Plug & Relays, one fork goes onto the engine the other to the battery & coil packs.

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With the loom apart adding the new wires was much simpler, we could then add some new bigger protective sleeving.

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I'd bought some larger diameter sleeving with this in mind, its made by Vidaflex and is heat and oil resistant, I've used it where the loom goes into the engine as extra protection.

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This photo is the loom going back together...

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This is the ECU Plug gold terminals are ones we have altered / added, silver ones are originals.

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Plug From the other side,

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We spent a bit of time finding the best location for the knock sensor, this needs to be reasonably close to a cylinder, It is essentially a microphone once setup it should detect preignition and allow the ECU to adjust timing / mixture to compensate.

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I've fitted this one to the head just above number 4 cylinder, which was also a convenient from a cabling point of view.

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This photo shows the loom as it enters the drivers footwell,

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There’s now an additional relay for the 02 controllers, they are connected to the main loom via the 2 4way plugs you can see at the centre rear of the photo. There are two controllers and 2 sensors as its a V6.

The O2 controllers are innovate LC2's and they will be concealed behind the panel that covers the heater matrix, they just fit without interfering with the mechanical heater control linkage,

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The cable from the sensors uses the same cut-out as the original radio /dashboard braded earth, This brings the cables for the 02 sensors out in the gearbox tunnel...

Next stage was to find a spot to weld the boss into the exhaust for the 02 Sensors...

Heres how the tubular manifold looked as standard:

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Idealy the sensor needs to be at the collector where all 3 downpipes meet, On a Scimitar with tubular manifolds this means a collector just past the outrigger, unfortunately there is not enough clearance to to fit the sensor to the top of the manifold. So as a compromise we came up with the following sideways position,

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Here it is once the boss for the sensor had been welded in...

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The cable is routed via the outrigger, along the chassis. Dave welded some new tabs on to hold the wires. I’ll give them a coat of paint before the car goes back on the road.

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The passenger side is clipped along the gearbox crossmember,

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A future improvement would be to have the collector for the exhaust a bit further forward, this would allow the sensor to be fitted in the channel of the outrigger better protecting it from debris. Something to consider when at a future date I improve the exhaust...

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With the sensors fitted and the wiring all connected we started the car and with the laptop connected we were able to view the AFR Live, The spike in the readings corresponds to me revving the engine.

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After some consulting the manual,

I managed to get the ECU to register the waveform from the o2 sensors,


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which proves that the wiring is all working as it should however there Is something not quite right with how the ECU interprets the voltages. So I've left the Active feedback turned off until I can ring Omex or get the ECU setup by someone who knows what they are doing...

Still not bad for a day and a halfs worth of work.



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Post by scimjim » Sun Oct 01, 2017 10:35 am

Great work :-)


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by MikeyBikey » Sat Oct 07, 2017 6:58 pm

Great stuff. Loving the striped shirt. Were you just on your way out ?

Says a man with experience...


Owner of a fantastic se5a (nee 5 speed) that's a bit quick (well, feels like it is!!) and now running on lpg
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Post by Joe. » Fri Oct 13, 2017 10:01 pm

Bodywork: Poking holes....

Wiring intermission over and couple of weeks later and I had a few days off and was hoping to get all the sanding finished and get a coat of primer on so I could go back to using the car.

The sanding progressed reasonably slowly due to the thickness of the paint, I utterly killed my old Black and Decker dual action sander which started to turn slowly and smell of hot electricity....

Here’s a few work in progress pictures:

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This photo shows the crossection of the paint layers. Starting at the top you can see:

1. Gelcoat
2. Reliant High Build Primer,
3. Reliant Primer,
4. Reliant Highland purple Layer,
5. First Red Coat, (possibly Reliant Mexican Red,)

The next coats are definitely after it left the factory. Possibly suggest 2 more resprays.

6. Grey Pimer filler coat,
7. Red Coat. Unkown shade,

8. Dark guide coat, (very thin)
9. Red Primer.
10. Red topcoat.

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In places there are several layers on top of that which are rattle can touch-ups in the time I've had the car.

I'd decided to take the primer down into the engine bay by an inch or so. With a view to sorting the engine bay out as a sperate task.

The process of sanding back the back of the engine bay has highlighted that there are still some sections lurking under the filler are actually heavily fire damaged. I first discovered this shortly after buying the car 8 years ago, at the time Dave and I fixed most of the structural damage but a section at the back of the engine bay was overlooked.

When fibreglass burns its generally the Resin that burns leaving the CSM as is very black and dry mess that is difficult to fix. A previous "matey" had simply skimmed over the remnants in filler which gave the illusion of being structural. Over the years since the filled area had started to crack and chip in places.

You can see it a bit in this photo:

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Rather than sand it down I elected to wipe most of the old paint off with acetone to evaluate what was there. this is usually effective on cellulose paint and stable on normal fibreglass. Unfortunately, on contact with the fire damaged section the fibres mostly dissolved...

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I wont lie this is a difficult fix, to do anything nice with it would need the engine out and donor section. which isn’t really a practical option.

Not wanting to dwell on that repair job I stripped off the back end, to start sanding that back. The back end of the car is a bit of a horrible area, When I first took the body off (now over 7 years ago) some bad accident repairs were highlighted and a repair section let in around the fuel filler and boot lock. Then in 2011 after I'd had the car on the road for a month someone drove into the back of the driver’s side and another replacement section was added...

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On both those occasions I'd noticed the jagged bodywork hiding behind the passenger taillight and each time I had decided not to look too close...

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Still that crack looked really shit...

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I Picked at it and it all turned out to be body filler...

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Swear words ...



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Post by scimjim » Fri Oct 13, 2017 10:07 pm

That's nasty :(


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by Joe. » Sat Oct 14, 2017 9:14 pm

Continued from the last post:

Fortuneately I remembered to keep a repair section left over from another repair job in 2011. Sometimes its useful to keep this stuff lying about after all!

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Offering up the repair section, The rough size was marked to make sure the right amount was cut out.

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Damaged section cut out, Edges feathered:

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The sharp eyed may have noticed that there is another section of filler to the left of the light cluster, I've not got a reapair section for this so will have to build up csm and then shape it manually... First stage is to get some new GRP at the back, This then means the filler can be dug out and additional GRP layed up from outside.

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Rear layer complete:

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More filler dug out, The pile was getting quite big at this point.

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After the inital lay up it was possible to gring back and go for a second hit. (I think there was probably 3 or 4 individual hits to get the thickness needed.

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With the thickness there it was possible to rough out the basic shape.

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After a bit more work:

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as you can see its coming together slowly, theres still more work to do to get both sides to match but its getting there...

I'm still completely undecided about the final colour. I'm now 95% sure that the car was changed from Highland purple to Mexican Red while at Tamworth. I like both colours and am finding it hard to make the final call which colour to go for....! Opinions welcome.

Image



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Post by MikeyBikey » Sat Oct 14, 2017 9:30 pm

I'd be tempted to go purple. Not too many and the fresh paint will look good. Also it is more resistant to uv


Owner of a fantastic se5a (nee 5 speed) that's a bit quick (well, feels like it is!!) and now running on lpg
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=8036
And is now going sprinting viewtopic.php?f=20&t=24376

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Post by efi_sprintgte » Sat Oct 14, 2017 9:36 pm

Yes I like 5s in purple :)



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Post by MikeT » Sun Oct 15, 2017 9:32 am

Purple for me - you see see plenty in red, but not so many in purple.

Looking good btw ;)

Mike.


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Post by reliant-reviver » Sun Oct 15, 2017 9:39 am

I've always lusted after Highland Purple Reliants.

All power to you for persevering with such a damaged shell!


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