My first 5a

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mattm
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Re: My first 5a

Post by mattm » Mon Dec 13, 2010 7:19 pm

No posts in a while as I had been in Oz working for a month or so. Also I now have a new profile.

After a real problem with it not starting when I changed some jets over, I found that by replacing all the spark plugs with standard NGK ones, it seemed to cure the problem and the engine burst into life??? Didnt want to start the other day when I tried, but I think this is lack of fuel rather than an ignition problem.
Redoing the bushes on the starter helped as well!!

-New rotor.
-New cap.
-New Vreg.
-New earth cables.
-Extra 12v feed from battery to starter solenoid.

Car is up on bricks again atm as I am trying to get the OD to work and replace the axle and G/B oil. I couldnt find any SAE 80, however GW said to use normal 20/50 engine oil as anything else makes the O/D slip? so Im off to do get some tomorrow. The oil from the G/B looked pretty good, however after eventually getting the filler plug out of the axle between the watts linkage, I drained the axle and it was VERY black and thick!!! glad I took the time to do that and not wait till the summer.

It seems that O/D inhibitor switch is not being pushed across enough by the 3/4 gear selection to allow the solenoid enough voltage, i.e when I moved it with a screwdriver I got 11.97 volts instead of 0.5 volts. Ill try and remedy that tomorrow as well as putting an earth cable direct from battery to the OD casing, and then a furthur one to the back of the car for leccy fuel pump which I plan to install and the lights, fuel guage etc.

For the fuel pump I plan to run thickish wire from ignition via fuse via beefy switch in cabin, direct to the pump.

Im also thinking of getting some decent bulbs for the headlamps and adding some driving lamps as well so I dont get blinded by all the bloody Audi-type cars with super headlights ( is it just me or are audi's the worst?).

Steel timing gear should come soon and Ill take the time to try and time the cam more accurately.

Im also pondering on a V65 as Im finding the mystery piper cam I have pretty mild, however Im sure getting it properly timed may make a difference.

Im thinking of changing the mid boxes for similar size/shape ones but of straight through design, Jetex do some at ~£50 each.


1975 Se5a White.

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scimjim
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Re: My first 5a

Post by scimjim » Mon Dec 13, 2010 7:28 pm

mattm wrote:I couldnt find any SAE 80, however GW said to use normal 20/50 engine oil as anything else makes the O/D slip?
never heard that before and I wouldn't want to be the one to try out that theory - you are aware that the O/D shares its oil with the (40 year old) gearbox - ever run a gearbox on engine oil?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: My first 5a

Post by AJL Electronics » Mon Dec 13, 2010 7:35 pm

Can't imagine how they equate a Hypoid (Extreme Pressure) 80 with a 20/50. Quickest way to a wrecked box in my view.


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dcrobertson68
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Re: My first 5a

Post by dcrobertson68 » Mon Dec 13, 2010 7:41 pm



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mattm
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Re: My first 5a

Post by mattm » Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:38 pm

never heard that before and I wouldn't want to be the one to try out that theory - you are aware that the O/D shares its oil with the (40 year old) gearbox - ever run a gearbox on engine oil?
well thats what I thought, which is why I thought Id post here and see the general consensus. I know that engine oil and g/b oil ratings are different e.g. a 30 weight engine oil is similar to a 80 weight g/b oil (that may not be exactly right).

Any reccomendations on what to use which I would be able to get from my local motorfactors/halfrauds? I came across a post suggecting 75/90 was good.


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scimjim
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Re: My first 5a

Post by scimjim » Mon Dec 13, 2010 8:57 pm

Yeovil motor factors sell EP80.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

mattm
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Re: My first 5a

Post by mattm » Mon Dec 13, 2010 9:42 pm

They only had 80/90 when I went in today :( Ill try yetminster tomorrow, they seem to be good, and cheap!


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scimjim
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Re: My first 5a

Post by scimjim » Mon Dec 13, 2010 10:40 pm

EP80/90 would be better than engine oil :D

there's also a new Camberly Auto Factors on the Lynx estate I believe?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Nick_F
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Re: My first 5a

Post by Nick_F » Mon Dec 13, 2010 11:57 pm

I've seen engine oil specified for the - LH or J-Type O/D in an MGB handbook, but I've also seen the operating pressure of the O/D and is was barely 2/3 of that for the Scimitar version.

Could be the advice from GW was given on the basis that engine oil is better than not enough oil.

Mole Valley should have some EP. Even Halfwits have it most of the time.


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mattm
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Re: My first 5a

Post by mattm » Tue Dec 14, 2010 8:48 am

The exact words form the man at GW after i reiterated it was for the gearbox were '.. yea its not under that much preassure, its what we put in here..'????


...I think Ill go for EP 80


Halfrauds own brand was 8.50 a litre which I thought was a bit steep.


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geoffp67
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Re: My first 5a

Post by geoffp67 » Tue Dec 14, 2010 9:30 am

ask for the trade discount card at halfaruads, tell them you work on classic cars - youll get big cash off consumables, which illustrates the rip-off factor



mattm
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Re: My first 5a

Post by mattm » Tue Dec 14, 2010 11:11 am

wow didnt know I could do that!?

Anyhow been to a local place in yetminster which are generally the cheapest around. Got a gallon on 80w90 GL5 for £15. I wanted GL4 but they didnt have any. This will do for the time being.

I did however do a bit of an error.... started to fill my dads diesel skoda fabia with unleaded from the local (expensive) garage. :oops:

I did only put a tenners worth in before I realised what I was doing and the mech said it would be ok if i just filled it right up with diesel. Got me home OK :mrgreen:


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mikerf
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Re: My first 5a

Post by mikerf » Tue Dec 14, 2010 12:18 pm

mattm wrote:
I did only put a tenners worth in before I realised what I was doing and the mech said it would be ok if i just filled it right up with diesel. Got me home OK :mrgreen:
At today's prices, that wouldn't have been much. Doubt that amount will do any harm. When I used to run my truck on veg oil, I used to put a little unleaded in to thin it a bit. Suggest you top up regularly for a couple of days, though.



mattm
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Re: My first 5a

Post by mattm » Tue Dec 14, 2010 5:01 pm

Changed the oil in the trans and gearbox, Ive also figured out why it wouldnt start again.. no fuel :oops: However Im sure I put a whole load in before I left for Oz so, it must have evaporated/leaked from the fuel tank. There is a dark patch on the bottom of the tank coming from the filler area, so I will investigate tomorrow when I get some more light.

Before I attempt it, what is the best way to adjust the O/D inhibitor switch, can it be done from inside the car after taking the central armrest/cover off?

Also fuel filter... where is it best place to put it, before or after the mechanical fuel pump in any orientation? After looking at my options on positions for the leccy pump, I may wait a while until I get a decent drill and bits.


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scimjim
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Re: My first 5a

Post by scimjim » Tue Dec 14, 2010 5:36 pm

O/D inhibit switch is easiest with two of you (and it's still awkward :D ). You need access to the bolt from the top (front right of gearstick surround plate) and to the nut from underneath. First off though, see if you can bend it a little from underneath.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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