Rat Rod (small update)

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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by Gillsfan » Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:42 pm

Standard se5/5a set up


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by Old and Slow » Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:50 pm

If you are able to push the brake pedal to the floor with no resistance and all the nipples screwed in, then it sounds to me like to master cylinder piston is stuck at its lowest position; possibly during bleeding the brakes, as the piston doesn't normally go so far into the bore, so the seal is stuck on a bit that's normally unused. I think there might be a return spring in the cylinder (experts please advise) but it might not be strong enough to overcome the friction.
Perhaps trying to push back the pads might get the piston to move a bit.
When bleeding using a jar and tube, slacken a nipple, only depress the pedal to half way max, then tighten the nipple. Repeat until the pedal is hard. (Needs two people of course).


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by Gillsfan » Thu Mar 02, 2017 3:04 pm

Small update. I've taken the master cylinder off and it seems fine, I don't know if I freed it up when removing it or it was fine all along. I've ordered a ezibleed which is arriving at some point today. I took the servo off to get access to the lower master cylinder bolt. While it's off I'm going to give it a coat of paint along with painting the area of body work under where it sits.

Once everything is painted I'll put it all back together and see if the ezibleed helps.


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by Gillsfan » Fri Mar 10, 2017 2:36 pm

So the master cylinder and servo have been off and treated to a lick of paint, as has the body work underneath

Before

Image

After

Image



Now comes the problem. I was raring to go bleeding the brakes with the ezibleed I've just bought can anyone spot the problem with the kit.
Image

Now does anyone have a spare master cylinder cap? I'm planning to 'adapt' mine to use with the ezibleed. I just want to check I can get a replacement before I do.


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by AnotherTim » Fri Mar 10, 2017 2:41 pm

Yes, I can...

all the parts have got holes in.

:D



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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by Gillsfan » Fri Mar 10, 2017 4:43 pm

Ok so I've solved (I think) the bleeding problem. I adapted my master cylinder cap and attached the ezibleed. The front brakes seemed to bleed ok, but the same problem with the rears. So I started to disconnect the brake pipes starting at the front and working back, in an attempt to see if any fluid was getting though and how far it was getting. the short version is I got as far as the starboard aft (drivers rear) wheel cylinder and noticed the pipe coming in was cross threaded :-( and wasn't sealing. I'll take the cylinder back off and try to recover the thread at work. I'm cross with myself for cross threading it, but in my defence the access was limited because of how I have to park the car.


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by philhoward » Fri Mar 10, 2017 7:25 pm

That'll be the reason for the vacuum leak then...


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by Gillsfan » Fri Mar 10, 2017 7:47 pm

Yep, I'd been looking for a leak thinking that if the was a problem, I see fluid leaking from it. So when I didn't see any fluid I assumed all was well. Apparently not....


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by efi_sprintgte » Sat Mar 11, 2017 8:07 am

It's normally a good idea to bleed the brakes furthest away first (rear)


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by Gillsfan » Sat Mar 11, 2017 8:11 am

Is it I thought it was the other way round closest first?


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by AnotherTim » Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:33 pm

I thought it was closest first too, so you purge all the rubbish stuff through the shortest length instead of pushing it all the way along to the back.



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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by AJL Electronics » Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:58 pm

You start at the longest run and work towards the master cylinder.


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by philhoward » Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:43 pm

Steve - I came across a cap if you need one?


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by GeoffTE » Sat Mar 11, 2017 7:11 pm

AJL Electronics wrote:You start at the longest run and work towards the master cylinder.
This is what I do and have always done ( just changed the fluid in SAR with no problems). However the manual states the opposite....why? I don't buy the theory that you get all the crap out via the shortest run first, you'd do that anyway, bleeding until the new fluid came through. Anyone have a feasible reason that I can believe?


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Re: Rat Rod (b*%§# brakes)

Post by tony.idle » Sat Mar 11, 2017 8:22 pm

GeoffTE wrote:
AJL Electronics wrote:You start at the longest run and work towards the master cylinder.
This is what I do and have always done ( just changed the fluid in SAR with no problems). However the manual states the opposite....why? I don't buy the theory that you get all the crap out via the shortest run first, you'd do that anyway, bleeding until the new fluid came through. Anyone have a feasible reason that I can believe?
Yep - it depends on who writes the instructions. I do it your way as well - unless I happen to have the front wheels already off. Then I start there. It doesn't seem to make much difference TBH.


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