SS1 1800 CVH Project now the alarm system

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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Peter S
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SS1 1800?CVH Project Carb questions

Post by Peter S » Thu Dec 05, 2019 9:34 pm

Moving on to the carb, I got a rebuild kit but the spacer is different also I have a 6mmish filter it doesn't fit in the " strainer"
Which looks like it doesn't come apart.
I'm minded to cut the heat shield to suit the spacer, as might improve air flow. Any thoughts?
The jets seem to be standard 50 idle 115 main f30 tubes with 160 air secondary 60,125 f30 &150. Is this correct? And ideas if need changing if a1800
Having troubles with my tablet will not load picture will try later but below is a bit that fell out of the auto choke, is it while broken piece? If not what is it
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Peter S
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SS1 1800?CVH Project Carb questions

Post by Peter S » Thu Dec 05, 2019 9:37 pm

Picture of spacers etc from my phone see post above for questions
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SS1 1800?CVH Project Carb questions

Post by reliant-reviver » Sat Dec 07, 2019 8:46 am

Looks like the auto choke internal white plastic cam assembly has broken up or is doing so. I've got a few NOS auto choke assemblies here if you wanted one. Otherwise maybe look at a manual choke kit.

Jetting wise you are probably ok to start off with the standard 1600 setup and work from there, doubt it would be dangerously lean. I spy choughton has run the same DFT carb on his so may be best to advise. Otherwise I do have the jetting for my 1900 noted down, bit that is quite a different and non standard beast.

I'd be inclined to ditch the heat deflector plate. Without a full air filter pan above you are unlikely to cook the carb.


Philip Andrew.
'74 Robin Super Saloon, '84 SS1 1300, '86 SS1 1800ti, '87 SS1 1300
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SS1 1800 CVH Window motor questions

Post by Peter S » Tue Dec 10, 2019 7:13 pm

Moving on:
I removed the driver's side electric window mechanism :evil: What a stupid design and a complete b* ll ache to remove. Managed it with only scratches on the inner wing :) . I removed it as only worked a little bit before stalling and smelling :!: It did work with my assistance though. A replacement came with the car and works BUT so did the old one once removed.
My question is: Is there a way of testing out of the car to see it it's "all good" :?: They are sealed units but the replacement has bolts holding the motor to the mechanism not rivets so possibly revamped BUT doubt it will go in the slot without modification of inner door or the nuts which stand proud. I don't want to install just to have the same problem :!:


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SS1 1800 CVH Door card woes

Post by Peter S » Thu Jan 09, 2020 4:12 pm

After getting the n/s door to close properly and quartelight frame to fit inside the screen surround :!: replacing the rear window glass channel, & checking the window motor worked, I thought I'd just fit the door card. Guess what after working OK the door would not open with either with the inside or outside levers with the door card fitted ( another awful fiddly job).
As the dash is partly out managed to get the door card off from the inside with the door closed and the door then opened OK. Could not find a reason why and door card does not impact on the door mechanism at all so refitted and - the same thing happened :? I can't think of anything that could cause this has anybody any ideas :!: As some doors cards are different, picture of mind below.
I think I'll leave off for now as not needed for the MOT :?: but a working door is.
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SS1 1800 CVH Door card woes

Post by old bean » Thu Jan 09, 2020 11:28 pm

The door not opening from inside or out when the door card is fitted will be due to the door card rubbing on or slightly restricting the free movement of the linkages at the rear of the door for the door open mechanism and or pop up locking pin that pops up through the door card. They have adjusters on the linkage rods and can be tweaked to get extra movement on them to overcome the problem.



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SS1 1800 CVH Door card woes

Post by reliant-reviver » Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:07 am

Fitting the door card and interior door handle finisher will bring the lever slightly further up. Over adjustment of the interior opening pull rod will then result in one of the sliding / pivoting elements in the door mechanism not returning to it's correct position if the lock (exterior or pin) is operated.

Basically you need to slacken up the pull rod. To improve function you can carefully build up part of the mechanism with a little weld which greatly reduces the throw on the lever needed to operate it.


Philip Andrew.
'74 Robin Super Saloon, '84 SS1 1300, '86 SS1 1800ti, '87 SS1 1300
Previous: I lost count around fifty.

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SS1 1800 CVH Project Headlight motor query

Post by Peter S » Sun Jan 12, 2020 6:45 pm

Thanks for that Phil I think I understand what you are saying, BUT the second time I tried I did not put the internal finisher on. I did however try to shorten the inner door rod possibly making it worse :oops:

Moving on to the next query
The headlight motors fitted do not have the knurled knobs on the end of the shaft only a rubber bung with a small hole in centre. I tried a small screwdriver but could only turn 1/4 turn each way. Anybody any idea what the shape is inside (are they standard wiper motors :?: )
Also any ideas how I could move them without power (one's up and one's down at the moment :!: )
If I connect a battery direct which way do I wire it :?:

I also find that the headlight bulbs are not as described in the handbook. I have 45/40 bulbs with a P45t base not H4 60/55 with a P43t base. Is this normal with Reliant specifying what they would like to fit not what they actually fitted.
Or have I the wrong headlights.


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SS1 1800 CVH Project Headlight motor query

Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Jan 12, 2020 7:21 pm

The headlamps are quite low-geared, it takes a *lot* of turns on the knobs to wind them up by hand. Fortunately mine do have knobs, so I can't advise on what fitting yours will be - one of the gurus will probably know :)

Whether connecting a battery direct is going to work, will depend what the problem is?

It sounds as though your lights are the same as mine are, with the old tungsten P45t bulbs. You can get H4 halogen bulbs with P45t bases, (rather than the normal P43t) and they make a worthwhile difference in brightness.


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SS1 1800 CVH Project Headlight motor query

Post by Peter S » Mon Jan 13, 2020 6:21 pm

Door card refitted- again, now seems to work as lengthened the pull rod to the inner lever. Looking as the spares I have another lock which looks less worn but as the original works I'll leave it for now.

Managed to take a photo of the end of the lift motor
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Any ideas how I can turn the shaft :?:

Also took photo of the sump no sign of strategic bump for the extra stroke or different bolt positions. Can anybody confirm its a standard sump please, it looks quite deep to me.
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SS1 1800 CVH Project Headlight motor query

Post by philhoward » Mon Jan 13, 2020 6:23 pm

It’s the shallow bit the crank will hit..

As to the headlamp, looks like either an “equivalent” motor has been used or your knob has snapped off :shock:


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SS1 1800 CVH Project Headlight motor query

Post by philhoward » Mon Jan 13, 2020 6:25 pm

This is what it should look like:
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Phil Howard
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SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
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SS1 1800 CVH Project Headlight motor query

Post by reliant-reviver » Mon Jan 13, 2020 8:39 pm

Crank would contact the windage tray before the outer skin.

That is a stock FWD sump, which was fine on my 1900. Block is usually redrilled to suit


Philip Andrew.
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Previous: I lost count around fifty.

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SS1 1800 CVH Project Carb queries

Post by Peter S » Thu Jan 16, 2020 2:54 pm

Having a rebuild kit for the standard DFT carb a few queries
The idle mixture screw if different the original has a step in the taper ( which I've never come across before) the one in the kit is a straight taper, which is correct :?:
The kit included a filter but there isn't anywhere to fit it. It doesn't fit in the strainer, which doesn't come apart any ideas.
Do you wash the strainer with petrol to clean it out or sealed for life :?:
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Another query I note Benc is asking about side repeater indicators. Do I need them my car hasn't any (or holes) it's a 1985 car registered 1986 but been off the road for 15 years so not on MOT digital database :?:


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SS1 1800 CVH Project Carb queries

Post by Old and Slow » Thu Jan 16, 2020 5:07 pm

If the original screw fits the carb then re-use it, the newer taper is different and IMHO will make tick-over difficult to set up.

Isn't there a fuel filter underneath the banjo in the carb itself? there is on the DCOEs so there might be on yours.


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