SS1 1800 CVH Project Electrical woes

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SS1 1800 CVH Project Alternator & Coil wiring

Post by philhoward » Thu Mar 19, 2020 6:42 am

Dcrosby13 wrote:
Wed Mar 18, 2020 10:46 pm
White green is driver's side indicators
I thought that was green/white?

The other wire on the connector is black/orange. That is definitely fan.


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SS1 1800 CVH Project Alternator & Coil wiring

Post by scimjim » Thu Mar 19, 2020 8:56 am

Dcrosby13 wrote:
Wed Mar 18, 2020 10:46 pm
White green is driver's side indicators
green/white is indicators (L5/L6), also used in e/w and e/m feed (2 along the top). Rad fan on a CVH changes from white/green to black/orange at the plug.
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SS1 1800 CVH Project Alternator & Coil wiring

Post by Peter S » Thu Apr 02, 2020 11:13 am

Having decided to continue even though I doubt it will get a MOT without a major restoration which was supposed to have been done. I have found it's been mainly cosmetic, retrimmed seats, new carpets, new tyres - now 11 years old and still with the moulding marks on the tread. I've decided to at least get it running so:
I think I've sorted the basic wiring but a couple of queries.
Have I connected the auto choke feed (I think!) to the correct terminal on the alternator?
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Have I got the coil wired the correct way round? The RHS wire has a black wire attached which I assume is the earth lead which seems to fit to the base of the dizzy, is this correct?
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Also it looks like the main earth lead from the battery connects to the top bolt of the cross member?


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SS1 1800 CVH Project Alternator & Coil wiring

Post by scimjim » Thu Apr 02, 2020 11:22 am

Aren’t the coil connections different sizes to make them idiot proof?

Battery neg to crossmember top bolt, yes.

Hope to be able to get your stuff from the workshop this weekend and package/post next week.


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SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
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SS1 1800 CVH Project Alternator & Coil wiring

Post by gtcse8 » Thu Apr 02, 2020 11:28 am

scimjim wrote:
Thu Apr 02, 2020 11:22 am
Aren’t the coil connections different sizes to make them idiot proof?
YES 1/4" and 3/16" :shock:


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SS1 1800 CVH Project Alternator & Coil wiring

Post by Peter S » Thu Apr 02, 2020 12:08 pm

Thanks all + for the bits. Lucky guess didn't realize they were different sizes just put them where they seemed to go.


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SS1 1800 CVH Project Alternator & Coil wiring

Post by greeny » Mon Apr 06, 2020 3:21 pm

Just a little note on the car, I acquired it as needing "finishing" there were plenty of pictures of the chassis work that had been done so I was happy it had been.
The paint was pants and not really a quality job but still better than some I have seen.
The only reason it got sold was change in circumstances, and also mine and my daughters needs and physical capabilities otherwise I would have kept it.


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SS1 1800 CVH Project Alternator & Coil wiring

Post by Peter S » Mon Apr 06, 2020 5:32 pm

Apologies if it appears I am criticizing the PO I'm not. Previous to her/your ownership things seem to have been carried out in a strange order to variable standard. For example a new handbrake was fitted but the brake cylinders were completely rusted solid. The car has also been standing for some years. This means that finishing can vary from just assembling the bits not on the car (which can be problematic if you didn't take them off!) to having to take bits off to refurbish.

A typical example today is I now need advice on starter motor.
Having realised the white/red wire is to the solenoid with a push fitting which had completely broken (thanks Phil) with one end fused onto the solenoid I took the starter off - only attached with 1 bolt. Cleaned up the thread so can get nut on. Tested starter solenoid works OK but starter does not turn. Managed to undo the long bolts (result thought would shear) to take apart to check brushes can't see the join - how does to come apart :?: Was going to check solenoid internals but can't undo the screws.
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Is it worth continuing :!: or getting a known good one :?:


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Post by Old and Slow » Mon Apr 06, 2020 7:32 pm

When you say the solenoid is working, are you "just" hearing a click, or is the contactor actually operating and connecting power to the motor?
On my other car, the brass contactor contacts were blackened and needed cleaning so that current would flow.
Dismantling the solenoid involved unsoldering one of the terminals (Bosche) to get the end off, but yours might be different.
The starter motor end cap might need a few taps to get it to move.
Good luck.


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Post by Peter S » Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:46 am

Solenoid throws the cog to the end of the shaft (with vigour :!: ) but no life at all from starter. The wire to the motor from solenoid has a nut which eventually undid :D will try again later to undo screws attaching solenoid to casing.


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Post by Old and Slow » Tue Apr 07, 2020 12:21 pm

The moving armature inside the solenoid does two things - it throws the gear into the starter ring and it also pushes a brass contact block across two contacts to spin the motor - one contact is live from the battery and the other is the feed to the motor. You could check the motor itself by using jump leads from the battery , the negative connected to the motor body and the positive momentarily direct to the terminal on the back of the solenoid that has a short thick wire to the motor.
Hope this helps.


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Post by Peter S » Thu Apr 09, 2020 11:29 am

Quick update. Finally managed to get the starter motor apart.
The screws holding the solenoid seemed to have been painted - is this normal :?:
The C washer has made a burr on the shaft so the bush still on the shaft.
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The brushes look a tad short but the field coils have continuity, the commutator not too bad, so no idea why no sign of life. Right to say brush holder soldered to field coils
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Now trying to decide whether to try a new brush cage - my soldering skills are not the best or to get a refurbished unit, anybody any advice :!:
Out of interest it's off a Sierra 1800 where have I heard that before :w


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Post by Old and Slow » Thu Apr 09, 2020 1:43 pm

Did you check whether the contactor in the solenoid was working? Trying it with an ohmmeter or continuity meter might give a false impression of it working because you are not trying to run 40 amperes through it.


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Post by Peter S » Thu Apr 09, 2020 3:00 pm

Pushing the button in by hand I got about 5 ohms across terminals which I think should be OK :?: seems to be a sealed unit. As it looks like I'm "off duty" this pm and too hot for daily exercise :lol: will try and clean up and rebuild to see what happens :!:


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Post by philhoward » Thu Apr 09, 2020 3:03 pm

5 Ohms is probably 100 times the windings resistance so no good (but you may get a false reading from a multimeter) - if they’re clean and bright and not pitted to hell they should be OK.


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