TSM - Bringing it back.... slowly

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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Jc29cdo
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TSM - Bringing it back.... slowly

Post by Jc29cdo » Fri Nov 09, 2018 1:49 pm

Hi all,

I thought I would start a project progress for my 1979 SE6a.

I purchased TSM 616T from a RSSOC member back in August, you can read his thread here:
http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... 8t#p335427

Since being in my ownership I have completely stripped the interior (seats, carpets, panels – see attached picture) so that I could release the body from the chassis. All securing bolts have been removed by either drilling or grinding and replaced with stainless steel bolts. I decided to do this so that I could raise the body 6 inch off the chassis so that I could assess and concentrate on the chassis. Upon raising it I discovered that the chassis was worse than we both thought! However I have secured new fresh metal for the front outriggers, side rails and rear horizontal outriggers (see attached picture of replacement metal) as well other rust patches to be put in place of the old metal. I’ve had to cut holes in the side of the body to expose the seatbelt mounts / rollbar as these has perished beyond repair, I also have the replacement parts for the mounts. I dropped TSM off to the welders last night so it will be up there for a few weeks whilst they work on it, they will complete the welding and conduct a full waxoil so it should hopefully last another 40 years.

Alongside this I have also been replacing some of the old electrical components and water proofing the majority of the connections where the wires have been spliced. I have also reconditioned the seats, polished the wheels and fixed the blower motors.

Jobs left to complete:
Finalise electrics – install new fuse box and get the rear lights to work (earthing issue I believe)
Install new lights all round – picked up new front lights from a car show a few weeks ago.
Engine tune – I have serviced the carb however need to drop all fluids and give it a good flush.
Refit interior with new carpets
Assess and recondition the heater matrix as I currently have no hot air.
Install new exhaust system - this got ripped of yesterday whilst loading it on a flatbed.
Either recommission the power steering or install manual steering
Everything else that will inevitability turn up

It is currently off the road at the moment however will be dropping it off for a Engineers Report (in place of an MOT) once the above list is complete. I want to get in safe on the road by the 18th January 2019 as this is when it turns 40.

I have intentions of getting it prepped for a respray however due to financial constraints (my wife) this may have to be delayed until late next year!

As frustrating as it can be sometimes I can honestly say that I have very much enjoyed my Scimitar ownership so far, however this may be down to me having a beer fridge in my garage.
1 - Scimitar GTE.JPG
1 - Scimitar GTE.JPG (221.68 KiB) Viewed 1747 times
2 - Interior Stripped.JPG
2 - Interior Stripped.JPG (122.88 KiB) Viewed 1747 times
3 - Replacement Metal.JPG
3 - Replacement Metal.JPG (256.42 KiB) Viewed 1747 times
4 - NSF Outrigger.JPG
4 - NSF Outrigger.JPG (109.71 KiB) Viewed 1747 times
5 - OSR Horizontal Outrigger.JPG
5 - OSR Horizontal Outrigger.JPG (224.06 KiB) Viewed 1747 times
6 - Off to the welder minus an exhaust.JPG
6 - Off to the welder minus an exhaust.JPG (213.07 KiB) Viewed 1747 times



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TSM - Bringing it back.... slowly

Post by Will Yarrow » Sat Nov 10, 2018 9:56 pm

I really need a beer fridge in the garage, looks a good project, good luck.



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Post by Jc29cdo » Wed May 22, 2019 1:18 pm

Good afternoon all,

My 6a is currently in the garage having its front outriggers and side rails replaced however my welder keeps discovering additional rust which needs to be cut out. I have removed all the interior seats and trim and also removed all the retaining bolts (as per this thread - https://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/vie ... hp?t=20113) also see pictures above. Currently the body is lifted about 2-3inchs off the chassis. The garage has suggested completely removing the body so that they can tackle the rust throughout, I like this idea as it will give me the foundation to build on.

So my question is...… What is the bear minimum that needs to be removed to allow the body to be removed? Can the dashboard stay in place once all is disconnected? Where are the majority of wiring that needs to be disconnected? Can windows stay in place? - slightly worried about flex.

As ever any help would be appreciated!



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Post by peter freeman » Wed May 22, 2019 2:23 pm

I lifted the body off our 5A and left everything in place - only problem was the rear electrics were wound around the chassis so I had to cut hem to get the body off - don't forget to disconnect the speedo cable. Should be easier lifting the 6 body as its not locked into the rear chassis as the 5s are so you can lift straight up. I left the doors on and all the glass in place - also don't forget to disconnect the steering



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Post by Coupe Racing » Wed May 22, 2019 4:42 pm

And handbrake and selector mechanism and earth points in the nose


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Jc29cdo
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Post by Jc29cdo » Wed May 22, 2019 6:57 pm

Thanks guys, will have a good read through the workshop manual also. Just don't want to miss something and create problems further along the line.

In the meantime i have cut new replacement footwell side panels from Extren 525 plate (combination of fiberglass reinforcements and thermosetting polyester resin). Fire resistant and won't perish/warp like the previous plywood ones. Just trying to bring all the small things together whilst the car is away so that it won't hold up progress later.
IMG_0016.jpg
IMG_0016.jpg (320.6 KiB) Viewed 1178 times



Jc29cdo
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Post by Jc29cdo » Thu May 23, 2019 10:31 am

Ok another body lifting question. According to the Workshop Manual I need to remove the front and rear bumpers (point 11 on extract below), having looked at other threads I've seen others lift the body with both bumpers in place. Can someone confirm that I do need to remove the bumpers to lift or can I just leave them? I'm trying to avoid as much time in the garage as possible to try and save some money. Can you also have a look at the list below and let me know what I do actually need to do and what can stay as it is?

Image

Image
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Workshop Manual_1.jpg
Workshop Manual_1.jpg (147.14 KiB) Viewed 1100 times
Workshop Manual_2.jpg
Workshop Manual_2.jpg (64.06 KiB) Viewed 1100 times



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Post by peter freeman » Thu May 23, 2019 10:58 am

You have to remove the bumpers on the 5s as they are connected to the chassis - not sure about the 6's but don't think they need to come off



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Post by JoeySully » Thu May 23, 2019 12:03 pm

I think you can leave the front bumper. you will need to remove parts 12/14/17

you may be able to leave part 14 especially if you are not removing the radiator/hoses but you will have to remove bolts 19 and 18 and bolts that attach 12 to 14.

you can access 18 without removing the headlights but you have to do it from the engine bay and they are hard to access but not impossible.
If you have a grill on the lower bumper you will have to remove it to access 19 also.
front end.jpg
front end.jpg (36.83 KiB) Viewed 1070 times



Jc29cdo
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Post by Jc29cdo » Wed Jun 19, 2019 10:54 am

Ok so after continuous failure from my body shop to complete the required outrigger welding I decided to take it somewhere else. Within two days of arriving at the new garage the body had been taken off and the full extent of the rust had been exposed, luckily it wasn’t as bad as I thought. Only the front outriggers, seatbelt mounts, side rail, rollover bar, rear outriggers and rear seat plate needs to be replaced, all of which I have the steel already purchased for. The rest of the chassis looks pants however under the 40year old chassis paint and previous waxoil it is solid as a rock. A steam clean and repaint is required to provide the base for the rebuild. All welding, cleaning and painting expected to take a week or so.

The only real issue I’ve had is that the garage apprentice decided to lift the body from the wheel arch (no idea why he thought this was a good idea) and broke the top part of the arch. The garage will be glassing in the part that broke off as it was a clean break, the will also be glassing in the parts that I cut out to release the roll over bar free of charge.

All over work is currently on hold until its back
Rear Shot Body Raised.JPG
Rear Shot Body Raised.JPG (168.79 KiB) Viewed 828 times
Broken NSR Arch.JPG
Broken NSR Arch.JPG (129.88 KiB) Viewed 828 times
Chassis.JPG
Chassis.JPG (178.38 KiB) Viewed 828 times
Rear Seat Plate.jpg
Rear Seat Plate.jpg (208.03 KiB) Viewed 828 times
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Jc29cdo
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Post by Jc29cdo » Wed Oct 09, 2019 9:44 am

Hi all,

The chassis is finally back from the welders and all major bits of rust have been cut and replaced with new steel (only took 9 months however the garage worked on it between jobs so was incredibly cheap). Before I put the body back on I want to sort out a few other jobs. Firstly I want to paint/protect the chassis so that it can be preserved for another 40 years. Can anyone recommend a good chassis paint? I've always used waxoil or similar however have heard good things about POR15, has anyone every used POR15? I have heard its a pain to paint on however the results are great.

Also, I will need to change the bushes on the rear. Can anyone recommend where I can find these from or if anyone has any spares which they are willing to sell? I don't mind if they are the standard rubber or poly, this car won't be used as an everyday car so don't mind a squeaky ride as long as they are reasonably priced.

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Post by philhoward » Wed Oct 09, 2019 9:48 am

I thin POR-15 doesn't stick too well to fresh (new) metal?


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Post by GTC Ian » Wed Oct 09, 2019 11:12 am

Try Rustbuster.
https://www.rust.co.uk/


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Post by Tinker man » Wed Oct 09, 2019 11:33 am

Hi,

i have used POR15 on a few projects and i am personally very happy with the results. its relatively easy to apply and you will be amazed how far a small tin will go. its evil stuff if you get it on your hands! be warned. it really takes some getting off... so gloves are a must and leave your sleeves rolled down!
Phil is right. in some cases the paint doesnt completely adhere to bare surfaces. even if you clean and clean the surface. it forms small "indentations/tiny craters). its not the case usually, but can happen. if however you use POR top coat (available in chassis black) that will stick. or you can go the whole hog and use the POR ruist preventative paint first.

the stuff is really hard and forms a nice smooth finish in my opinion. there are lots of other views on lots of other products of course. tried to show a few examples but i cant get the pictures to load somehow today.


cheers, Ian.


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Post by AJL Electronics » Wed Oct 09, 2019 12:02 pm

POR-15 was always my 'go to' product and I was relatively happy with it. It is intended for rough, pitted metal where it does a reasonable job. Where it fails is with fresh, shiny metal where it will come off in sheets. It also needs 6 weeks before you can overcoat it and even then, you may get reactions. Then there is the expense of it and the fact that you can't keep an opened tin. I have black rings in my 'fridge from trying.

The ultimate answer nowadays is epoxy primer. Sticks like you know what and needs a dangly grinder to remove. Fully waterproof and inert when cured (12 hours) so you can if you wish overcoat with anything you like. Not expensive and can be brushed, rollered or sprayed. For chassis work you may prefer Jotun products. For bodywork, Lechler 29107 will produce a finer finish.


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