Mikey Bikey's Scimega

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Post by MikeyBikey » Thu Mar 19, 2020 7:51 pm

Great stuff, turned the key with all the new gubbins and she starts. Tickover needs adjusting. Reassuring that despite pulling the car apart and changing lots of stuff, the basics are still good.

I’m really happy with the new lpg tank. It’s soooo solid in cradle in situ , 50% more volume fuel and 8mm piping throughout so basically as a task it’s complete, can’t be improved.

I’ve also added a 2.3 remote servo, which I now realise is probably too strong but heh hoh. Too many bum clenching moments racing a Alfa Romeo’s Giulia on the m5 made me realise 250bhp, xxx mph and no servo isn’t a good idea.
Last edited by MikeyBikey on Thu Mar 19, 2020 8:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Post by MikeyBikey » Thu Mar 19, 2020 8:16 pm

So, efi.

I want it as a realistic fuel backup and to sprint on. So I’m guessing say 10l -20l tank. The CANEMS ecu can also fire the fuel injectors. It’s a dual system and so also have 2 maps. I’ve installed the oem injectors, and wiring loom.

I’ve got a selection of supply and return piping, low and high pressure fuel pumps, swirl pots and a steel 5a tank.

So I could trim depth of the 5a tank depth so it’s not just a massive void for fuel to slush around in, and in the space freed up between shortened tank and a axle, put the pumps and swirl pot.

But that’s a lot of work, which quite frankly, I’m tired of.

Or I could buy a ford focus tank, aka Phil, and just make it work ?

Suggestions anyone ?


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Post by philhoward » Thu Mar 19, 2020 8:47 pm

Focus tank is close, but not a simple bolt-in job. I’m sure there’s another suitable rank out there but I hadn’t found it.

Keep an eye locally (Facebook marketplace is handy) for small ally tanks from either short circuit or Autograss racers.


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Post by MikeyBikey » Thu Mar 19, 2020 9:04 pm

Phil, did you add a swirl pot to your scimega / focus tank set up


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Post by scimjim » Thu Mar 19, 2020 10:28 pm

IIRC the focus tank had an inbuilt swirl pot? How about something like a Micra K13 tank? Or a smart car?


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Post by GavinR » Thu Mar 19, 2020 11:55 pm

If you have a small enough, or vertical enough tank, then presumably you don't need a swirl pot?
Or just a big swirl pot !


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Post by philhoward » Fri Mar 20, 2020 2:09 am

Focus tank (like virtually every tank with an internal pump) has its own built in swirl pot.

Gavin is right though - the swirl pot is needed if there’s likely to be an interruption to the fuel supply to the pump. If the tank isn’t that “flat” (or has an internal sump) you may well not need one.


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Post by oilrag » Fri Mar 20, 2020 6:42 am

A friend of mine, who competes in autograss racing ,(rear mounted 1 ltr bike engine in a space frame car chassis) racing on an oval grass circuit uses a fuel tank from an outboard motor powered rigid inflatable boat ,secured in an alloy cradle,they are made of tough red polyurethane ,cheap too.
Just a thought.


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Post by MikeyBikey » Sun Mar 22, 2020 6:40 pm

Some thoughts on clutches please.

Been out for the first run and it will slip quite easily at lower revs. The bite is very low on the pedal. .?

The bespoke setup I have means the concentric slave bearing is about 5mm shallower. So When I press the clutch rhe pressure plate is being pushed in 5mm less.

That, I don’t think ??? is my problem.


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Post by scimjim » Sun Mar 22, 2020 7:44 pm

It must still be partially engaged with your foot completely off the peal then?


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Post by philhoward » Sun Mar 22, 2020 7:54 pm

Glad I used the factory setup.. :roll:


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Post by Old and Slow » Sun Mar 22, 2020 9:39 pm

I don't know anything about concentric clutch actuators, so this might be completely off the wall..
I think Jim is probably correct - the clutch is partially disengaged all the time, allowing slip before the wheels get up to speed.
Do you find the revs take a moment to equalise when changing gear, i.e. if you blip the throttle is it taking a moment or two for the engine to slow down to match the road speed?
Alternatively, the concentric actuator has to push back fluid into the master cylinder when you release the clutch, and this could perhaps be taking some time. Do any clutch master cylinders have a return spring inside the bore to assist in the return stroke?
A conventional slave cylinder often has an external return spring on the actuating lever for just this purpose.


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Post by MikeyBikey » Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:52 pm

I’ve talked at length with precision clutches in zummerset. We think the current setup isn’t man enough.

Last night I went out and had a 20 mile blast. If I try to use full acceleration she slips. If I slightly fettle the acceleration, she’s fine. Still accelerates like a lunatic (well sounds like it. Didnt have door, gearbox tunnel or bonnet fitted so it was always going to sound lairy)

So I’ve ordered a 6paddle clutch. It’s due to arrive tomoz.

I’ve also stripped the drive belt and refitted the tensioner. The minimal system I’d created didn’t have it, but it was eating idler pulley bearings. Three so far.

So hopefully the tensioner and a stronger mounting will stop that.
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Post by MikeyBikey » Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:58 pm

scimjim wrote:
Sun Mar 22, 2020 7:44 pm
It must still be partially engaged with your foot completely off the peal then?
Thought long and hard about this Jim, and took measurements but I’ve got the other scenario. The clutch is only engaging on full depress so it’s disengaging fully, I hope. Hence ordered the 6paddle


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Post by MikeyBikey » Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:59 pm

philhoward wrote:
Sun Mar 22, 2020 7:54 pm
Glad I used the factory setup.. :roll:
Agreed but I like to make life difficult
:bh :bh :bh


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