1600 SS1 restoration log

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scimjim
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1600 SS1 restoration log

Post by scimjim » Mon Sep 17, 2018 1:42 pm

rhss1 wrote:
Fri Sep 14, 2018 8:46 pm
Why did Reliant use 2 inch bolts to hold the straps on - a half an inch would be plenty.
If you ever fit a new tank with new rubber under the straps, you’ll realise that half an inch would be impossible to start on the threads - fine on something that’s settled over the last 30 years perhaps :D


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
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Ford
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1600 SS1 restoration log

Post by Ford » Mon Sep 17, 2018 6:04 pm

scimjim wrote:
Mon Sep 17, 2018 1:42 pm
rhss1 wrote:
Fri Sep 14, 2018 8:46 pm
Why did Reliant use 2 inch bolts to hold the straps on - a half an inch would be plenty.
If you ever fit a new tank with new rubber under the straps, you’ll realise that half an inch would be impossible to start on the threads - fine on something that’s settled over the last 30 years perhaps :D
I had the same thought about those bolts, and was going to just use some of the same length M8 bolts as the strap front and handbrake cable brackets use, but I'm very glad I ordered a few 45mm long ones.


SS1 1316

rhss1
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1600 SS1 restoration log

Post by rhss1 » Tue Sep 18, 2018 1:34 am

Had another two hours to spend on the car today.

Got both of the stuck hub nuts off. I used two tricks I just saw on the net - one was drilling a cross-hole near the end of a five-foor length of pipe, and then slipping the hole over a rear hub stud so the next stud would brace it against the ground. The other trick was to place a support under the outboard end of the breaker-bar; I used an axle-stand shimmed up to the required height. These two and six feet of bar on the socket and they both came loose, no fuss.

After that I found that the upper ball-joint was already loose in the tapered socket - but the nut is stuck fast on the stud. That's tomorrow's job; dremel a slot in the nut, crack it with a chisel.

[ edit - didn't need to get that drastic; dremel'ed a slot in the stud end and held that still with a screwdriver; nut came off easy.]

The right front suspension bits came off without much difficulty, as the did both sides' brake line unions (flare-nut spanner required - I now have a complete set as that was the best tool-for-money ratio).

What remains is the rear suspension, the differential, the other brake lines & fuel lines - and I can't think of anything else.

My tank rubber bits are about 1/8" thick under the straps and about 3/8 " where it sticks outside the strap. How thick is the rubber originally as perhaps it need replacing.
Last edited by rhss1 on Thu Sep 20, 2018 1:54 am, edited 1 time in total.



rhss1
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1600 SS1 restoration log

Post by rhss1 » Thu Sep 20, 2018 1:52 am

Today I only had enough time to do some electrolytic de-rusting of the front upper wishbones.

Which means I only had time this morning to set it up - after that they were in the tank for about 8 hours.

I hooked up two battery chargers in series, negative to the parts, positive to a bit of old steel piping, all immersed in a poly tub with about a cup of TSP. Meters on the chargers indicated about 2 amps.

I pulled them out tonight and gave them a bit of a brush, they look pretty good now. Tomorrow they'll get another dip.

This is a great result/work ratio method.



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