1600 SS1 restoration log

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rhss1
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1600 SS1 restoration log

Post by rhss1 » Wed Sep 05, 2018 11:37 pm

[sept 7th]
I've changed the title.

This will be where I put all the posts, pics, and questions.

It's all about SS1 #204, which is a non-galv 1600 cvh SS1. I bought it in the late 90's and drove it a few years and then it has sat in a non-heated garage.

The sills are rusted and will have to be replaced, there are some other areas that also need new metal, and the suspension arms front and rear are to be reinforced.

Other than that there are a lot of rubber bits that will be renewed, the engine looked at and made healthy, the interior to be tarted up, a new soft-top, probably re-spray...

Last summer I took most of the body panels off and stripped the interior.


[sept 5th]
I'm almost ready to take the engine out.

I want to take it and the gearbox out together.

I was following the instructions from Phil Wormauld's guide.

There are two bolts that are the rear gearbox mounts. Phil says undo them. I can not get a spanner on the nuts behind them.

They appear to be attached to a structure that itself is held on the frame, by four (?) socket-head capscrews that I can get to.

This structure looks as though it will slide forward if those are undone - will it - can I get the engine& gearbox out with that bit attached?

And here's another question - I have the propshaft-to-diff bolts out. What happens when I start pulling the engine out - does it all slide forward as a unit, back to the flange I undid?

Or does the propshaft also come off the back of the gearbox? If so, how as there's no way I can see to get to it.
Last edited by rhss1 on Fri Sep 07, 2018 12:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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scimjim
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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by scimjim » Wed Sep 05, 2018 11:46 pm

Yes, the gearbox mounting plate will slide forwards with the mount attached - it may require some persuasion.

If you just pull the engine/box out, the props sliding flange will just pop out of the box and drain EP oil everywhere. If you ty-wrap it to the box it should stay in.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

rhss1
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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by rhss1 » Wed Sep 05, 2018 11:58 pm

Thanks, was hoping to hear that.

What do I tie-wrap to what - looks a bit fiddly if I have to do it inside the tunnel.



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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by scimjim » Thu Sep 06, 2018 8:46 am

The prop to the gearbox - it is very fiddly so I normally just put a drip tray under the box and do an oil change while it’s out, or I fit the spare end of a prop.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by Dcrosby13 » Thu Sep 06, 2018 9:21 am

Thats a clever Idea, I never thought of that. I have started draining the box before pulling it out, a little bit of oil still comes out.


I break stuff...... :w

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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by Dcrosby13 » Thu Sep 06, 2018 9:26 am

to get at the bolts from the rear of the gearbox mount I put a universal joint on the back of a socket then a small extension it just fits in the gap, still a little fiddly but makes life much easier, you can use a spanner but you have to put your arm down the transmission tunnel facing toward the front of the car and you will only get half a turn at a time if you are lucky.


I break stuff...... :w

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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by scimjim » Thu Sep 06, 2018 9:32 am

A car I stripped last week had socket cap head screws fitted to the gearbox mount - much easier to get to than the original bolts.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by scimjim » Thu Sep 06, 2018 9:33 am

Dcrosby13 wrote:
Thu Sep 06, 2018 9:21 am
Thats a clever Idea, I never thought of that. I have started draining the box before pulling it out, a little bit of oil still comes out.
No drain on a type 9 as standard unfortunately - although one of mine has had a drain plug fitted.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by Dave 6726 » Thu Sep 06, 2018 12:04 pm

Sorry if this has all been discussed before, but I can't get my head round no drain plug on a Type 9. Were they meant to be sealed for life? If not, what? :shock:



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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by scimjim » Thu Sep 06, 2018 12:09 pm

yes, they were meant to be sealed for life (probably 10-15 years?).


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by Dave 6726 » Thu Sep 06, 2018 3:48 pm

Blimey. They obviously hadn't figured how popular the T9 would be! (32yrs for mine, 34 since start).



rhss1
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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by rhss1 » Fri Sep 07, 2018 12:58 am

It's out, and sitting on a pair of timbers placed across the legs of the engine hoist.

I took off the sway bar and the front suspension crossmember, so I could get the hoist nice and close (it's a small garage).

To hold the propshaft in the back of the gearbox I put a biggish nylon ziptie through the front ujoint, and connected that to another ziptie that got snugged down under the bolts that hold the gearshift on (I made a little flat cover and they hold that on now).

The propshaft tended to drop out of the bottom of the tunnel and the flange would get snagged so a loose loop of rope tied to the frame was used to hold it up.

I had a leveller bar to help with the lift and frankly it was a doddle. I just went slowly and made sure nothing got in the way.

I seem to have been lucky, the bottom of the car was quite oily and none of the oily fasteners have yet been much of a struggle.

So now there is a chassis with most of the suspension, the diff and rear axle, and the tank on it; all of which has to come off.

Here is a photo taken yesterday when getting everything ready.
ss1d1.jpg
ss1d1.jpg (137.72 KiB) Viewed 729 times
In the back you can see the stand made to remove and store the tub. It has wheels - the tub was lifted in stages until it would clear the B posts, and then the stand was rolled backwards.

The car was rolled back as far as it could to make sure there was enough room in front to get the whole engine/gerabox/propshaft assembly out; as well, the hoist was shortenened to bring the hook closer to the stand. As it turned out there was about 2 feet to spare.

The exhaust would not come apart - which meant it would not come out of the engine's space.. It's s stainless one (so I was told), but that hasn't stopped the joints seizing. To get the engine out the manifold and starter were removed, and the bellhousing would then clear the downpipe flange. I'm hoping that with the engine space clear it can be wiggled out through the hole in the frame.



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1600 SS1 engine removal problem/question

Post by Alan SS1 » Fri Sep 07, 2018 12:43 pm

much easier without the body tub or front frame :-)

for what it's worth I just left exhaust behind as well, easier than trying to split it apart. especially the joint at back axle!!


SS1 1600 (AJZ ----), Regal 330 (VAV ---), C30 (SK 57 ---)& 480 (EVU ---)

rhss1
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1600 SS1 restoration log

Post by rhss1 » Fri Sep 07, 2018 12:49 pm

Next question - maintaining body & b-post alignment when replacing the sills.

Is this a problem and if so how to cope.

I can't weld, someone else is doing it. He welds cars all day.



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1600 SS1 restoration log

Post by reliant-reviver » Fri Sep 07, 2018 1:15 pm

One would hope, or indeed request that they brace it all up in it's existing state before chopping the sills out. Nothing fancy, just lengths of box section tack welded on in key areas then buzz them off when the work is done.

Your bulkhead cross bar appears to be bent upwards?


Philip Andrew.
'74 Robin Super Saloon, '84 SS1 1300, '86 SS1 1800ti, '87 SS1 1300
Previous: I lost count around fifty.

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