Heaven and Hell

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Nigel Clark
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Post by Nigel Clark » Sun Feb 17, 2019 1:28 pm

Hi Stu,

Good to know where the brake fluid was going. Should be a simple fix with new slave cylinder?

Nigel



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Post by upstart8s » Mon Feb 18, 2019 1:24 pm

Nigel,

If you refer to any of my previous posts on the forum, you will notice that I have a unique skill for doing things back-to-front. If I had checked the slave cylinders earlier, I would have realised that a new master cylinder was unnecessary, saving the cost and time. I had planned to service the handbrake and rear brakes around Easter time.

I picked-up the parts needed this morning and will start that job soon. It delays the date when the car gets back on the road (wasting all that free tax and test) but I will have the assurance that it will be roadworthy.

Stu


current...
1977 Reliant Scimitar GTE SE6a (VHI registered) 3000 automatic/pas UUV***S
1991 Mazda Eunos Roadster (import on classic insurance) 1600 automatic/pas J***XAN
2006 Vauxhall Astra Estate 1800 automatic/pas FM***TLO
previous...
1977 SE6a automatic VOH***S
1994 SS1 1600CVH manual B***RWK (#54)

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Post by upstart8s » Wed Mar 13, 2019 3:48 pm

Well, I have just got to the point of plumbing the new rear slave cylinders and I have come across a problem. All of the pipe connections were seized solid and, despite cans of penetrating oil and lots of heat, it was impossible to remove them intact. Before doing any damage, I obtained replacement pipes from QRG (both sides of rear axle, tee piece and flexi). I still cannot break the joint between the rear flexi and the long brake pipe upstream. This leads me to the conclusion that my installation is/was the original Reliant work. The existing connectors are OK on the new master cylinder (from AJL) and they are connected snugly.

When I came to re-connecting the new stuff on the rear axle, I found I have a mis-match in threads. Unfortunately Nigel is on holiday, so he is unable to shed any light on my problem, so can anybody suggest what might be wrong? with the new stuff, all connectors and threads are the same at 0.360" o/d. I'm guessing I need a thread adapter or something similar. Since Nigel is on holiday until 1st April, I'm doing exactly the same thing!

If anybody with a trailer is interested in a cheap project car in almost perfect working order (just a few issues) let me know.

Stu


current...
1977 Reliant Scimitar GTE SE6a (VHI registered) 3000 automatic/pas UUV***S
1991 Mazda Eunos Roadster (import on classic insurance) 1600 automatic/pas J***XAN
2006 Vauxhall Astra Estate 1800 automatic/pas FM***TLO
previous...
1977 SE6a automatic VOH***S
1994 SS1 1600CVH manual B***RWK (#54)

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AJL Electronics
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Post by AJL Electronics » Wed Mar 13, 2019 4:26 pm

Stuart, just send it down here for me to sort out for you. I don't think that you enjoy spannering as much as using the car, so that would get you sorted!


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Post by philhoward » Wed Mar 13, 2019 5:58 pm

Isn’t there a mix of imperial and metric threads on the rear axle (I may be confusing my memories here but I’ve not had a 6 series although remember reading something about it in the past).


Phil Howard
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Roger Pennington
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Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Mar 13, 2019 6:18 pm

Yes, AFAIK (this is an Se6a I think?), the front Lockheed brakes are all metric, and the rear brakes (the internals of which are mostly shared with some MGBs) are imperial. I've forgotten where the changeover point is, I think it might be at the rear tee-piece? There's a post on the forum somewhere which confirms it, I'll see if I can find it.


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Roger Pennington
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Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Mar 13, 2019 6:32 pm

This is the post I had in mind. It's in Corky's GTC thread, but given that Se6a/6b/GTC all have Lockheed brakes the likelihood is that it's fairly universal (though I would screw things in carefully the first time!)


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Post by upstart8s » Wed Mar 13, 2019 7:10 pm

Thanks for the offer Andy, but I am afraid my finances are very restricted.

Thanks for the information Phil and Roger, that certainly seems to be the situation I am experiencing. My biggest worry is that I damaged the connection to the flexi but I will have another look tomorrow, weather permitting.

Stu


current...
1977 Reliant Scimitar GTE SE6a (VHI registered) 3000 automatic/pas UUV***S
1991 Mazda Eunos Roadster (import on classic insurance) 1600 automatic/pas J***XAN
2006 Vauxhall Astra Estate 1800 automatic/pas FM***TLO
previous...
1977 SE6a automatic VOH***S
1994 SS1 1600CVH manual B***RWK (#54)

Miles Burnett
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Post by Miles Burnett » Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:10 pm

Don’t Panic! As the Book said! Nigel is back on the 1st 😎



upstart8s
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Post by upstart8s » Fri Mar 15, 2019 6:00 am

Tried unsuccessfully to disconnect the existing flexi. The fittings at both ends are seized solid.

My options seem to be twofold:
1)obtain 2 new cross-axle copper pipes with UNF fitting on one end to fit existing tee piece and Metric fitting on other end to fit new slave cylinder, or
2)obtain new pipe from pressure switch to new flexi with metric fittings (presuming the connection at the pressure switch is not seized) and fit new pipes all through

Option 1) is today's choice!

Pipe flaring tools and kits are cheap enough but they don't all appear to provide for the bubble flare, is this essential?


current...
1977 Reliant Scimitar GTE SE6a (VHI registered) 3000 automatic/pas UUV***S
1991 Mazda Eunos Roadster (import on classic insurance) 1600 automatic/pas J***XAN
2006 Vauxhall Astra Estate 1800 automatic/pas FM***TLO
previous...
1977 SE6a automatic VOH***S
1994 SS1 1600CVH manual B***RWK (#54)

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philhoward
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Post by philhoward » Fri Mar 15, 2019 6:11 am

Pipe flaring tools and kits are cheap enough but they don't all appear to provide for the bubble flare, is this essential?
You mean a double flare? Normally you make the single flare using the former insert - the double flare is usually the same operation without the former insert (just the cone of the tool section)?


Phil Howard
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Post by upstart8s » Fri Mar 15, 2019 9:14 am

You are probably right to suggest double-flare, Phil. I guess I've been watching too much Youtube!
brake tube nipple.jpg
brake tube nipple.jpg (128.22 KiB) Viewed 1442 times
If it works, here is a picture of what I need in UNF.

Stu


current...
1977 Reliant Scimitar GTE SE6a (VHI registered) 3000 automatic/pas UUV***S
1991 Mazda Eunos Roadster (import on classic insurance) 1600 automatic/pas J***XAN
2006 Vauxhall Astra Estate 1800 automatic/pas FM***TLO
previous...
1977 SE6a automatic VOH***S
1994 SS1 1600CVH manual B***RWK (#54)

roymck
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Post by roymck » Fri Mar 15, 2019 9:23 am

On my former tool the first process puts in a single bubble flare, then the insert is changed and the bubble flare is pushed inside itself to form a double flare. The photo you show is a single bubble flare .
Any decent garage should be able to make up a brake pipe but some struggle to stock imperial fittings .
On my car somebody had taken the trouble to fit copper pipes then ruined it all with steel fixings , so they still siezed Into cylinders and fittings .



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Post by philhoward » Fri Mar 15, 2019 10:18 am

That’s a single flare. UNF fixings can be a bit more tricky to find these days in the pick-a-pack which adorn shelves these days although some motor spares shops hold a box of mixed sizes under the shelf. Readily available online though.


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Roger Pennington
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Post by Roger Pennington » Fri Mar 15, 2019 3:21 pm

upstart8s wrote:
Fri Mar 15, 2019 6:00 am
1)obtain 2 new cross-axle copper pipes with UNF fitting on one end to fit existing tee piece and Metric fitting on other end to fit new slave cylinder, or
Are you sure the new slave is metric? That sounds a bit odd?


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