SST 1.4

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SST 1.4

Post by Alan SS1 » Tue Apr 09, 2019 1:46 pm

reliant-reviver wrote:
Mon Apr 08, 2019 1:32 pm
Better with than without in my experience.
can't comment, as never had it fitted, seems to work well enough :-)


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Post by Roger Pennington » Thu Apr 11, 2019 2:21 pm

scimjim wrote:
Fri Apr 05, 2019 6:12 pm
Unusual for those pumps to fail - I think I might have a s/h spare if you can’t find a new one (hadn’t seen the ones with 3 connections until someone mentioned them on here) - presumably you can modify to use the 2 pipe version, with just a tee piece for the return.
Assuming it's the same as my late-type 1600, I'm not sure how you could arrange a return via a tee piece? The return stub is an outlet from the pump so the diversion into the return happens within the pump?


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Post by scimjim » Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:14 pm

Presumably the only setup that uses a 3 port pump is a carb that doesn’t have a return feed?

The tee piece (which has a restriction in the return line) is placed in the pipe from the pump to the carb. Number one has this setup with its original vv carb.


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SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

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Post by Roger Pennington » Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:29 pm

That's certainly the case with my TLDM, the carb only has a single feed pipe, and it's the pump that does the regulating.

I wasn't aware you could get tees with restrictors (though I guess you could make one if you knew the required size of the restrictor?


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Post by Geraint SabreGTCse5 » Thu Apr 11, 2019 7:40 pm

this is the new pump fitted the pipe orientation was slightly different. It made a significant difference but it still was not running smoothly missing and spluttering, Jets out, carb cleaned again, a little improvement... almost at the point of pushing it to the back of the shed and forgetting about it when I decided to check the countless vacuum pipes that are fitted. There were no leaks but several of the smallest ones to the filter housing were blocked... surely not.... :D .... seems to have done the trick and it runs even on tick over. There seems to be no sense in all the vacuum pipe work it all looks genuine but made to fit by reliant..... We shall see what happens when I run around in it for a week or two.

It did cross my mind that the running issues might have been there and the reason it was laid up. I was looking at replacement carbs and several of the new kits have the restricted t piece mentioned by Jim..... with luck I won't need a new carb....
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Post by scimjim » Thu Apr 11, 2019 7:51 pm

Geraint SabreGTCse5 wrote:
Thu Apr 11, 2019 7:40 pm
There seems to be no sense in all the vacuum pipe work it all looks genuine but made to fit by reliant
surely it’s all original Ford fitment?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by Geraint SabreGTCse5 » Thu Apr 11, 2019 8:05 pm

scimjim wrote:
Thu Apr 11, 2019 7:51 pm
Geraint SabreGTCse5 wrote:
Thu Apr 11, 2019 7:40 pm
There seems to be no sense in all the vacuum pipe work it all looks genuine but made to fit by reliant
surely it’s all original Ford fitment?
yep shoe horned in to available space with lots of bends to make it fit :D


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Post by Geraint SabreGTCse5 » Tue May 21, 2019 6:23 pm

radiator started to leak slightly from a seam, the company i usually use could do it but I was shocked how much prices for recores had gone up it was only a few quid more to buy a new one from GW. I will change all the hoses at the same time. I know other radiators can be made to fit but wanted to keep it as close to original as possible. I have also found it a mither with insurance companies when modifications are made..... hope it fits :D
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Post by reliant-reviver » Tue May 21, 2019 8:29 pm

Is that a drain tap at the bottom? Presumably it's easily removed otherwise fitting the radiator in the armature could be a struggle.

Looks good otherwise!


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Post by Alan SS1 » Wed May 22, 2019 1:15 pm

reliant-reviver wrote:
Tue May 21, 2019 8:29 pm
Is that a drain tap at the bottom? Presumably it's easily removed otherwise fitting the radiator in the armature could be a struggle.

Looks good otherwise!
large cone cutter will fix the armature problem :-0


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Post by Geraint SabreGTCse5 » Wed May 22, 2019 7:59 pm

yes it is a drain "tap" which is easy to removed I am hoping the original cap will fit or it may be Alans answer!


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Post by Geraint SabreGTCse5 » Sat Jun 22, 2019 8:25 pm

well the rad fitted nicely, change the drain tap to a plug ...personal choice, changed the pipes and flushed out the engine.... suprising amount of sludge/rust came out.

I have been using her to commute and generally run about for a month now and she has been reliable (touch wood), surprisingly dry inside and attracts a bit of attention where ever it goes. Not the quickest convertible I have had but it makes me smile.

two little issues the NOS front badge lasted 5 minutes driving and then was lost for good..... need to source another.

second .. the radio cuts out when I hit one of the many pot holes on the way to work ...is there a fuse for the ignition on live to the radio? if so where is it? I have tried a second radio and it does the same, traced the wire back to the loom and it seems ok. Earth is good.

What have owners done to improve the radio sound in their small sports. I have ordered new better quality "dash" speakers and toying with the idea of fitting some behind seats and looking for ideas.


Geraint

Sabre ti, se5, GTC, 6b.......

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Post by Geraint SabreGTCse5 » Sun Jul 28, 2019 10:32 pm

any one got part numbers for the Front suspension lower ball joints, I saw a thread with them on recently but can't find them now.

thanks


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Post by Geraint SabreGTCse5 » Fri Sep 20, 2019 8:20 am

more money spent at GW's the exhaust fitted has become religious :D and needs changing to this nice shiny number.

the cause of the radio dropping out was an earth which I can only describe as a bridging earth lead on the front crossmember. Cleaned it up and its fine.

I am looking to improve the brakes over the winter period so if there are any GW kits out there for sale let me know. I have read that there are clearance issues when using the bottle top alloys any truth to that?

whilst doing the brakes I want to change the various bushes and ARB etc any one know any part numbers? I don't want poly as some fitted to my "wannabe middlebridge" and the have disintegrated
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Post by scimjim » Fri Sep 20, 2019 8:30 am

The GW vented brake kit used to include spacers for the front wheels - I fitted them to C686 and they needed the spacers with bottle tops.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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