G130 YCF sprint car

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Dcrosby13
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G130 YCF my first sprint car

Post by Dcrosby13 » Mon Jul 23, 2018 3:56 pm

ah ok have you got any pictures of the bit that needs drilling?


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Post by Dcrosby13 » Mon Jul 23, 2018 3:57 pm

I take it the rolling road dude will be doing the afm, timing and boost adjustment? im going to try and book it into the place in middlewhich.


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Post by swoakes » Mon Jul 23, 2018 3:58 pm

Don't remember touching the AFM on the Sabre when we fitted the bleed valve :?


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Post by CNHSS1 » Mon Jul 23, 2018 4:08 pm

AFM can be adjusted to offer a little more fuelling


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Post by Corky » Mon Jul 23, 2018 4:13 pm

It’s not a necessity, just another tool if it’s found to be lean.
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Post by Dcrosby13 » Mon Jul 23, 2018 4:15 pm

Thanks guys, I might aswell remove the cover just incase the rolling road dude wants to fiddle with it.


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Post by Corky » Mon Jul 23, 2018 4:18 pm

You need to drill out the blanking plug too. Needs to be done carefully on the bench.


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Post by Dcrosby13 » Mon Jul 23, 2018 4:19 pm

I have a spare afm so I will trial it on that first.


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Post by CNHSS1 » Mon Jul 23, 2018 4:23 pm

The fuelling is the limiting factor to how much "Grin" pressure you can run :wink:


Racing is life, everything before and after, is just waiting--Steve McQueen
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Post by Dcrosby13 » Mon Jul 23, 2018 4:26 pm

righto, I will grab an adjustable fuel regulator too, I take it the old one will need to be removed in order for this new one to work?


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Post by Corky » Mon Jul 23, 2018 4:38 pm

Needs cutting out and new one plumbing in with some R9 hose.


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Post by Dcrosby13 » Mon Jul 23, 2018 4:42 pm

sounds scary lol my cutting usually involves taking waaaaay too much off.


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Post by Corky » Mon Jul 23, 2018 5:20 pm

If you’re looking for 160-170 BHP. I wouldn’t go to too much trouble. You can easily get that with a tweak of boost (10psi ish) and an intercooler. There’s always a risk it could go bang, but if you’ve only got a standard HG then that will probably act as a fuse.

If you’re looking for more. ie 180-200. Then you need to start looking at fueling, a performance cam etc. But if you just want to get out and enjoy it, save your pennies and run a safe 160bhp. This will still be a competitive spec.

The biggest gains in your first year are from seat time, not an extra 30bhp.


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Current:- SS1 Ti RG sprint car, Honda S2000, VW Touareg 3.0 V6
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Dcrosby13
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Post by Dcrosby13 » Mon Jul 23, 2018 5:23 pm

I agree, the budget has already spiraled out of control :lol: I take it the maf and adjustable regulator are not required for 160? I have fitted cooler plugs and will be fitting the intercooler we have bought.


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Post by Corky » Mon Jul 23, 2018 5:40 pm

Nice to have, but not essential for 160 BHP at around 8psi.

Get a good boost gauge and controller. The Turbosmart one is very good indeed. I don’t get any spikes with mine. Set it up for about 8 psi (about 10-15 clicks). Should be a good start point for the rolling road.

Don’t forget to add in a dump valve, as without one you could find the pressure can affect the throttle butterfly opening and closing in line with throttle.


Steve
Current:- SS1 Ti RG sprint car, Honda S2000, VW Touareg 3.0 V6
Prev:- Sabre Ti, 3xSS1 Ti, SS1 16v Turbo Racer, 5XGTC, 2XSE6B, 2XSE5A, 2XV6 Coupe, Sabre 6
Project Threads & YouTube

“It's not the winning, it's the taking apart that counts"

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