And so it begins

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

Moderators: scimjim, philhoward, Lukeyboy46, erikscimitardemon, Roger Pennington

Steve_S
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:47 pm
Location: Nr Derby
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 1 time

And so it begins

Post by Steve_S » Sun Jun 02, 2019 8:04 pm

Steve_S wrote:
Tue Feb 19, 2019 4:46 pm
So Im still not convinced the engine is making full power seems to have the go of a 2.0 pulls ok up to half throttle then from there on just makes more niose and no more pull..
This is the vacuum reading im getting at idle to low would suggest cam timing is out and by the look the timing cover has been off.
Or it could be the camshaft is worn and not getting full lift ?
What does the collective think ?

https://youtu.be/QhvRqbd1Ak0
So referring back to this post iv been in the garage and put a degree disc on the crank and a dial gauge on the rocker.
It would appear that the cam timing is out by around 17 degrees.
So I was talking to a mate who trials land rovers and used to run a Essex 3 liter v6 he told me he had a timing gear boss slip and put the cam timing out.
this style of gear
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-LARGE-TI ... ctupt=true
this is the style of gear in my car.
So ill be looking for a replacement gear to use.



User avatar
Coupe Racing
RSSOC Member
Posts: 7326
Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2007 10:51 pm
Location: Nr Telford - Shropshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 93 times

And so it begins

Post by Coupe Racing » Sun Jun 02, 2019 8:36 pm

Yep do it now
Replace with either all steel or alloy
However offset woodruff keys can help correct cam timing too


Blessed are the Cheese makers

Better to be an hour early than 1 minute late

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 37711
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 136 times
Been thanked: 967 times

And so it begins

Post by scimjim » Sun Jun 02, 2019 9:42 pm

Have you had the front cover off to check it’s simply not been fitted a tooth out?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Steve_S
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:47 pm
Location: Nr Derby
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 1 time

And so it begins

Post by Steve_S » Mon Jun 03, 2019 7:36 am

scimjim wrote:
Sun Jun 02, 2019 9:42 pm
Have you had the front cover off to check it’s simply not been fitted a tooth out?

Yep stripped it off the other week its lined up :cry:
Coupe Racing wrote:
Sun Jun 02, 2019 8:36 pm
Yep do it now
Replace with either all steel or alloy
However offset woodruff keys can help correct cam timing too
Thats the long term plan but for now I just want a standard gear to prove my theory.
It will be the alloy gear as the specialist on car SOS who did the 3 liter engine said the steel ones can brake camshafts and damage the front cam bearing when reved passed 6000 rpm
This guy http://ricwood.com/

Video here cam gear at 13.43



User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 37711
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 136 times
Been thanked: 967 times

And so it begins

Post by scimjim » Mon Jun 03, 2019 8:23 am

Myself and others had steel wheels fitted for years without problems - how often do you rev past 6k?

The boss physically can’t slip, it’ll strip or lose chunks.

If it’s 17 deg out (and I’m not sure how it can be), try moving it round one tooth?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Steve_S
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:47 pm
Location: Nr Derby
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 1 time

And so it begins

Post by Steve_S » Mon Jun 03, 2019 5:25 pm

scimjim wrote:
Mon Jun 03, 2019 8:23 am
Myself and others had steel wheels fitted for years without problems - how often do you rev past 6k?

The boss physically can’t slip, it’ll strip or lose chunks.

If it’s 17 deg out (and I’m not sure how it can be), try moving it round one tooth?
I probably wont rev passed 6k but its also less spinning mass, and have read a lot of people saying the steel ones are noisy
Im not sure how its 17 degrees out but it is so just need to fit another timing gear to rule the old one out or condmn it.
I dont know the history of the engine could have the wrong camshaft in for all I know wrong gears messed about woodruff keys anything.
Ill get to the bottom of it like you sig says CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS
Its running and im not wanting to pull the engine apart till the long nights start again



Steve_S
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:47 pm
Location: Nr Derby
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 1 time

And so it begins

Post by Steve_S » Thu Jul 18, 2019 9:42 pm

So it turns out it has a kent cam fitted which is why i had a discrepancy as I was working with standard cam timing numbers



Steve_S
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:47 pm
Location: Nr Derby
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 1 time

And so it begins

Post by Steve_S » Thu Jul 18, 2019 9:56 pm

Had a petrol smell and found a leak on the return feral on the carb. So I ran a 6mm tap up it screwed a bolt in and pulled it out Iv re fitted it with some locktite 243 which according to there webs site will resist petrol but also made a clip to hold it in place ill weld it next time iv got tig out
carb return outlet.JPG
carb return outlet.JPG (170.23 KiB) Viewed 532 times
carb locktite.JPG
carb locktite.JPG (110.8 KiB) Viewed 532 times
outlet bracket.JPG
outlet bracket.JPG (133.75 KiB) Viewed 532 times
return bracket fitted.JPG
return bracket fitted.JPG (127.16 KiB) Viewed 532 times
Attachments
carb return.JPG
carb return.JPG (133.19 KiB) Viewed 532 times



User avatar
Old and Slow
RSSOC Member
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2015 5:37 pm
Location: East Berks
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 52 times

And so it begins

Post by Old and Slow » Fri Jul 19, 2019 11:31 am

Neat bracket; I hope the loctite prevents further leaks. Perhaps you could have put a smear of RTF on as well as the loctite to minimise the risk of leaks? Time will tell. Fingers crossed.


Philip Needham
Ashley-bodied TR3; '54 Ford Consul; '55 AC 2-Litre Saloon;'65 850 Mini; '70 Ford Zodiac MkIV; XR3i
'81 911SC Targa, '64 Sabre Six

Steve_S
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:47 pm
Location: Nr Derby
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 1 time

And so it begins

Post by Steve_S » Sat Jul 20, 2019 7:29 am

Old and Slow wrote:
Fri Jul 19, 2019 11:31 am
smear of RTF
Petrol melts RTF over time



TrevorG
Posts: 399
Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2012 9:09 am
Location: Thomas chapel in Pembrokeshire
Has thanked: 18 times
Been thanked: 20 times

And so it begins

Post by TrevorG » Sat Jul 20, 2019 8:28 am

Steve, I had an interesting one happen in an old tractor recently, had the same problem on a fuel line and araldited (liquid metal) it in place. Over a few weeks, I noticed the leak came back. On disassembling, I found that the petrol or tvo had released the bond between the liquid metal and the (cleaned) metal surface of the casting, but not the ferrule.

I wonder if some carb castings get porous over time and get contaminated with fuel residue and just won't bond properly with adhesives etc.?



gtcse8
RSSOC Member
Posts: 1917
Joined: Fri Apr 24, 2009 10:11 am
Location: Steeton, Yorkshire Dales
Has thanked: 18 times
Been thanked: 115 times

And so it begins

Post by gtcse8 » Sat Jul 20, 2019 8:32 am

Why not just pin it like the factory did ?. :?: :idea:


Mark Wilson. See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s,1 & 1/2 GTC`s, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

User avatar
David Tew
RSSOC Member
Posts: 480
Joined: Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:09 am
Location: Cotswolds
Has thanked: 10 times
Been thanked: 40 times

And so it begins

Post by David Tew » Sat Jul 20, 2019 10:40 am

gtcse8 wrote:
Sat Jul 20, 2019 8:32 am
Why not just pin it like the factory did ?. :?: :idea:
Absolutely, the original mod used a Mills Pin. I don't have any Mills Pins :!: so I do the same with a short SS self-tapper. Just be careful the input isn't blocked.
rsz_carb_pin.jpg
rsz_carb_pin.jpg (37.85 KiB) Viewed 335 times


- My wife says I don't listen to her ...... or something like that! -
SE4B Coupe - rebuilt on brand-new chassis.
Bought in 1978 and an RSSOC member since. 😲

Steve_S
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:47 pm
Location: Nr Derby
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 1 time

And so it begins

Post by Steve_S » Sat Jul 20, 2019 6:49 pm

Another job is sill [or cill] kick plates I scored a sheet of stainless steel. I had to make some tooling for my press brake to get the right radius happy with the result
Test bend.JPG
Test bend.JPG (147.76 KiB) Viewed 301 times
sill kick plate.jpg
sill kick plate.jpg (103.43 KiB) Viewed 301 times



Steve_S
Posts: 71
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2018 5:47 pm
Location: Nr Derby
Has thanked: 2 times
Been thanked: 1 time

And so it begins

Post by Steve_S » Sat Jul 20, 2019 6:59 pm

The other thing iv been playing with is the heater control panel which was broken and a couple of bits missing so I replaced the missing bits, it seems its made of perspex or similar, so to help prevent breaking again I backed it with some stainless steel
Have tried velcro to hold it on the dash but its not working ill have to come up with another method
heater control panel.JPG
heater control panel.JPG (148.46 KiB) Viewed 299 times



Post Reply

Return to “Project Progress”