The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by stewb » Wed Nov 07, 2018 11:31 pm

Tin cars do rust very well!

I presume the Jag is an auto? Vast majority were, nice motors but they do rot well.

I'd advise against making a new heater....I've done that on the TVR & hate to think how many hours have gone into it....ended up worse than project Binki (youtube if you've not already seen it). To be fair based on your progress you'd get it done in no time!

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Thu Nov 08, 2018 9:57 am

I had no intention of making a new heater unit, just making the most of what's there. Definitely not Project Binky style.

Yep, the XJR is an auto.


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Sun Nov 11, 2018 10:24 am

The heat control cable wasn't connected to the valve on the engine when I bought the car. Nick (previous owner) advised me that it didn't work, which is why it was disconnected.

At Curborough, I asked Nigel from QRG, he didn't have cables, but suggegted leaving the outer in place & replacing the inner with piano wire. I think I asked at the GW stand too, but no joy. I'd been looking at Triumph cables, as I knew my Spitfire had a similar arrangement. I did buy a cable for a Spitfire when I was getting some other things, but it was way too short.

Recently I happened across a Jaguar cable, which has the pig tail for the control knob & is longer than required, so can be cut down. I have fitted just the inner to the old outer, and I had to cut about 6" off the inner & it's all in situ. Should anyone need on it is Jaguar part no. C21373, from E-types & Mk 2

http://www.jagspares.co.uk/Manners/part ... tno=C21373

Here from top to bottom are:

Spitfire heater cable
The cable inner from my car, you can see it was not rigid enough
The Jaguar cable
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Here's the pig tail end on the Jaguar cable.
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I put a half twist on the end of the cable, so that it is naturally trying to rotate itself on to the spigot
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Unfortunately, that's not quite a fix. It pulls ok, but the push on the valve is not working. This is probably a combination of the old outer stretching (unravelling the coiled outer to expand - you can see it) when the cable is pushed. And probably the valve being stiff. As it's clearly going to take a bit longer, I'm leaving it for now, as the heater matrix is not plumbed in anyway... I'll cahnge the outer for the new one as a starting point, I guess I'm going to have to look at the heater valve too though.


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by David Tew » Sun Nov 11, 2018 11:21 am

Thanks for that Ben. Mine has snapped just after the "pig's tail" and I was wondering about the best fix. You've found it! :D

One for the next edition of Alterparts. :wink:
Last edited by David Tew on Sun Nov 11, 2018 11:30 am, edited 1 time in total.


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by scimjim » Sun Nov 11, 2018 11:28 am

I think I used a cable from a Triumph of some description, but can’t find the details :(


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by stewb » Sun Nov 11, 2018 7:27 pm

Guess the cables can be obtained from MG places too as the rotary mech was used on them. CBS do a nice line in push pull cables too. Valve is probably a bit stiff, not sure what type of valve the Scim uses, I used a Taxi valve (there are a few versions with & without bypass) but they use 5/8" stubs so might not be suitable if the heater circuit is 1/2". The new valves need very little force to operate.

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Nov 11, 2018 8:38 pm

My SS1 has a push-pull piano wire "cable" for the heater water valve :)


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by Coupe Racing » Sun Nov 11, 2018 8:41 pm

David Tew wrote:
Sun Nov 11, 2018 11:21 am
Thanks for that Ben. Mine has snapped just after the "pig's tail" and I was wondering about the best fix. You've found it! :D

One for the next edition of Alterparts. :wink:
Why not remake the pig tail ?
I have done it successfully before


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by David Tew » Sun Nov 11, 2018 8:57 pm

I tried that but the inner cable is then too short. I shortened the outer to suit and it was then pulled too tight to operate properly. New £7 cable it is then. :D


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Sun Mar 31, 2019 12:06 pm

The clock in my coupe has been stuck on 2 o'clock since I bought the car, and I believe for many years.
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But as we've changed from GMT to BST this morning, I've made a mental note that it's now stuck at 2 o'clock BST; just to avoid any potential confusion. Here's the resultant change
20190331_120025.jpg
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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by Corky » Sun Mar 31, 2019 12:17 pm

Excellent, so it’ll still be right twice a day. Result !


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Sun Mar 31, 2019 1:26 pm

:D


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by Rattling » Sun Mar 31, 2019 4:49 pm

Nice one :D :D don't forget to alter it in October :D


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Mon Apr 22, 2019 11:43 pm

Escalation:

A few weeks ago, I wanted to use the coupe, but it wouldn’t start. When I did get it going, the misfire I thought I’d sorted came back…

I’ve not actually spent much time on the coupe, as I’ve been trying to get my SS1 race car together, but it looks like I’ve done loads.

I thought I’d try a different carburettor, as that’s one thing I’d not changed. I had a couple of 40 DFA’s in stock, so I built a good one up out of the 2. It’s still got choke plates, which have been removed from the 40 DFI that was on there, I thought this would be helpful to see if that was part of the cold starting issue. I decided to use the manual choke conversion, just to take out the variable of the auto choke.

The first issue is the throttle linkage operates from the opposite side, so I needed a longer throttle cable.

The manual choke conversion was very close to the vacuum take-off for the brake servo. So I swapped out the straight spigot for an angled one that came off my 1st SE5 some 16 or 17 years ago, and has been in a box of odd bolts, bits & bobs ever since.

I had to take off the heat valve to get the angled vacuum take off on, but that was ok, as it was too stiff for the cable to operate. So that had a bit of cleaning & a liberal dose of silicone spray & now operates nice & smoothly.

I had to split the valve to get it to fit back on, but I fitted a new o-ring at the same time. This is now all back on & I think is leak free.
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The engine fired straight up with the alternative carb, so gave me immediate false hope…

Whilst waiting for a throttle cable, I decided to pull out the heater, as I thought the matrix was leaking. The dashboard has previously been modified, with the lower sections cut away, so I could tackle the heater without pulling out the whole dashboard moulding.
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The top bolts I could get to with the radio out of the way
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At the bottom, I had the remnants of a mouse nest. The heater box came away without the matrix, as the rivets had corroded. There were two very obvious issues. One a very strange aluminium plate, with a big scallop to the outside world. I have no idea what this is for? The only things I can think of it to let water out, or mice in.
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The other obvious issue is that the bottom section of the cavity for the footwell heater ducts is in contact with the gearbox & has worn through, so is also open to the outside world. I did see this when I had the gearbox out, but I didn’t realise it was part of the heater ducting. The gearbox is the original, so shouldn’t be in contact with the body. However, the engine has been spaced up on the engine mounts, possibly to help alignment of the exhaust manifolds? Further investigation is required. I’m not going to be able to do a proper repair with the engine & gearbox in situ, so I’ll have to think of a cunning work-around (temporary bodge…)

With the matrix out, there was plenty of detritus: leaves, paint scrapings dusty old crap.
20190418_221822.jpg
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Here’s the weird aluminium scallop thing removed from the hole. I’ll blank this with a flat aluminium plate for now, it can be matted in at a later date.
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It looks brand new!
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The period radio looks very charming, but the charm disappears as soon as the engine is started, when the interference whining also starts. A couple of months ago, I bought a Retro Sound radio from Moss Europe when they had a sale on. It comes as a kit of bits as they are designed to suit a wide range of applications. This is what you get:
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This is it put together:
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Here’s a comparison of new & old. There is a graphic to put on the LCD screen to make it look less like an LCD screen, but I’ve not fitted it yet. I can’t pass comment on it’s operation, as that’s as far as I’ve got for now
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Once I’d got the new throttle cable in, I took it out for a spin, the bad misfire is still there once it warms up. That was annoying as I wanted to use it over Easter. I’ve got more fault finding to do, but I’ve got a couple of ideas for the next bit. Oh and the heater matrix needs sorting. More to follow in time...


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car in build
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by ScimmyMike » Fri Apr 26, 2019 10:32 pm

I've the same radio for my Coupe also, just can't decide whether to fit it or not, be interested to hear your thoughts on it one in and working Ben


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