The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Mon Jun 11, 2018 7:19 pm

b.c.flat hat wrote:
Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:37 am
Got a heater matrix and original seat if yer still need 'em?
I don't need a seat, but I may need a heater matrix. I'll pull it out first though to have a look, I may be getting in touch with you...


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car in build
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SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by CNHSS1 » Tue Jun 12, 2018 1:50 pm

Can collect from Crusty Ben, and meet with moulding
Last edited by CNHSS1 on Wed Jun 13, 2018 9:04 am, edited 1 time in total.


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Tue Jun 12, 2018 9:50 pm

I'll hang fire for now, thanks Craig.


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car in build
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by Nick » Wed Jun 13, 2018 1:44 pm

Ben,

For info. Manual has top of float 6.5 mm from bottom of carb top ,and travel of 13 mm, i.e. 19.5 mm from carb top when open. This should be what I set it to.

Never had a problem with heater, but hoses were pretty old! Changed them on my white Coupe, awkward job.

PS got some smaller main and idle jets if you want to try them. Mains at 200 are pretty big.


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Wed Jun 13, 2018 11:56 pm

I definitely checked the float level when I stripped the carb. I'm sure I tweaked it too, so it wouldn't necessarily be what you set it to Nick. The 40 DFA is 5.5-6mm & 14mm, so pretty much the same.
Last edited by BigBobPilot on Thu Jun 14, 2018 12:24 am, edited 1 time in total.


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car in build
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Thu Jun 14, 2018 12:23 am

Whilst at the side of the road looking at fueling issues last week, I realised the cheap small tool kit I'd swapped in to the coupe was pretty hopeless, a small range of metric spanners (with no 13mm!). Along with an adjustable spanner.
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I'd also found the small tool kit I have in my van, although not as bad, didn't have the range of spanners I wanted in that either. Rather than buying new sets of spanners to try and make up sets that will have little use as emergency tool kits, I turned to ebay. I bought a mixed batch of imperial AF spanners for £4.95 from a chap 5 miles down the road. I was the only bidder. I had to pay more for a batch of metric spanners, £11.50 from the same guy, as there were other bidders. On collection I also got a little-used air ratchet with some impact sockets and a 1 1/2"AF combination spanner all in for £30. So some spanner consolidation was required
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I now have a slightly more useful tool kit for a 60's British car and I've swapped some other spanners in & out of my main kit, filling in a couple of gaps in sizes. All from being at the side of the road with the coupe!

I do have a hand full of spares, plus I have some odd whitworth spanners to sell on (I had them anyway).


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car in build
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Sat Jul 14, 2018 11:52 pm

Well, every time I think I’ve got to the bottom of the hot misfire on my coupe, I find that I have not! I’m beginning to see why Nick hadn’t got it solved.

I thought it was all good, but the combination of the very high recent temperatures and sitting in very slow moving traffic, tipped it over the edge. It had been behaving so well too. I’d been caught up in traffic for some time, the temperature gauge had climbed but was stable. At finally reaching the front of the queue at a junction, I went to pull out & the engine stalled as soon as I gave it any throttle, then it wouldn't start. I ended up getting a help to push the car across the road and out of the way in a bus stop, where I opened the bonnet & let the engine cool off; whist I checked for fuel & spark, which were both ok.

Once it had cooled off a little, it started & I made my way home, although it was fluffing a bit. It was time to replace the K&N filter, as below:
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...with an original type (with a K&N element inside). The air filter has the intake cut back, so a pipe can be fitted to feed air in from the front of the car, rather than picking up the hottest air possible under the bonnet (as with the K&N). Again, something that I’d done on my original hillclimb GTE and is used on quite a few race cars.
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I’ve used a pipe that’s a bit too small to fit the housing properly, hence the gaffer tape. It’s just what I had in the garage. Also the routing is not what I want to end up with, but it will do for a trial until I get some bigger pipe. I’m not sure why the horns are mounted in the left hand front battery box, but I intend to move them to the front of the car & run the engine air intake pipe through a hole in the GRP, where the horns are currently mounted, so it’s picking air up from the intake grill.

When I move the horns, I’ll investigate the interesting wiring a little more. I’m loathed to start delving in to it at the moment.

I think the revised air intake is helping, not only is it picking up cooler (more dense) air for the engine, but it also helps to cool the carb. as it flows through. However, I’ve also been reading up on the Weber emulsion tubes. The car had retained the breather pipe running from the RH rocker cover to the carb sandwich / W-plate. I always plug the sandwich plate take-off & run the breather pipe to a catch tank, there was one there anyway, so this is what I did on the coupe too. The logic being that the engine only breaths in a nice fresh air & fuel mix, rather than some of the blow-by from the crank case. This change has altered the fuelling, as it's now drawing more air through the venturis. At high rpm, the engine was stumbling as it leaned out. My research told me that the holes at the top of the emulsion tube affect the high rpm, the higher up & more of them, the more the high rpm leaning affect. The carb (40 DFI) had F50 emulsion tubes, in the photo below, these are the ones with the 4 rows of holes at the top of the tube. So I went looking for what other emulsion tube I had. I had a choice of one other, an F2 from a standard 40 DFA carb, this is the other emulsion tube below:
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The Weber literature also said, a low hole in the emulsion tube helps wide open throttle acceleration from low rpm to high rpm, looking at my choice of 2 tubes, plus the drawings & tables from the Weber catalogue, I thought the F2 emulsion tube was worth a try. With it fitted (as the only change) the drive-ability is the same, but the high rpm stumble has gone and it revs cleanly as high as you want to rev it. I also ended up putting a smaller idle jet in, going from a 65 to 60. So I’ve leaned it off at light throttle (up to approx 3400 rpm) & given it more fuel at high rpm.

After the changes and a reasonable mount of driving, the spark plugs were still looking a bit white, as if the engine is lean, or the plugs are a little hot. The ones in the engine were equivalent to an NGK 5. I had a box of new NGK BP7ES as spares for the Marcos, so I’ve put those in and taken it out for a decent drive this evening. I’ll pull the plugs out tomorrow so I can have a look & compare the colour to the old plugs.


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car in build
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by MikeyBikey » Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:49 am

Blimey. I’ll stick with lpg :lol: :lol: :lol: anyways sounding promising


Is we sideways yet...

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by Nick » Sun Jul 15, 2018 5:03 pm

Ben,

Good luck! It was my plan to fit a remote inlet air feed.

I tried smaller mains and slow running jets as on paper the ones fitted are too big. It did not like them so went back to the jest fitted. Emulsion worth a try.


Nick

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Sun Jul 15, 2018 9:54 pm

I pulled a couple of spark plugs out today, they still look brand new. A few more miles will be required for them to colour up.

Ideally, I should weld a lamda boss in the exhaust so I can take a reading of the mixture. But I'm not going to do that right now, it's definitly not rich though Nick. The 40 DFA has 180 mains as standard, so 200's in a 40 DFI with the engine mods it has isn't too outrageous. The emulsion tubes & main air correctors need to be taken into account with the main jets as well though. Anyway, it's running quite happily at the moment when it's not getting hot.


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car in build
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by MikeyBikey » Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:12 pm

I fitted a decent wide band sensor and electronic gauge. Not cheap, but really pleased. Its permanently fitted and tells me constantly lean / rich under power etc.

I had tried narrow band in each exhaust bank and twin gauges but a complete waste of time.


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by BigBobPilot » Mon Jul 23, 2018 9:32 pm

Pretty much since I parked the coupe on my driveway, it’s been leaking gearbox oil. I checked the torque of all the bolts I could get at, but it was still leaking. I’d also noticed the gearbox was rumbling, most noticeable when stationary in traffic. Therefore I was banking on it needing a strip & rebuild with at least new bearings, Nick Hall had the overdrive rebuilt, so I had no concerns over that. Then David Tew advertised a gearbox on Scimitarweb at an attractive price, certainly not much more than I’d have spent on parts and less than if I’d taken the box to be rebuilt somewhere. He’d bought it a number of years ago as a refurbished box, directly from the re-furbishers. It’s been in his garage ever since, whilst his coupe has gained a T5 gearbox instead. So I picked that up a few weeks ago. At least I could just do a straight swap, without the car being off the road for too long.

Tuesday

As the oil slick on my drive was growing, I decided it was time to pull the gearbox out, whilst it still had some oil in it. So last Tuesday evening after work, I dropped it out, leaving the belhousing in situ. with the clutch & starter motor. The gearbox input shaft & fore/aft selector rod both have a lot of play in them, where as the replacement has virtually none. Old box at the back, new at the front.
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There was a lot of oil & muck over the chassis & body, so with some of that scrapped off, I brushed in a load of degreasant and left it overnight. With most of the muck removed, there was a lot of bare metal, so I knew some painting would be required, so my hopes of putting the new box in on Weds would be dashed. I moved on to cleaning up the prop shaft & gearbox cross member & got some primer sprayed on them.

Wednesday

As soon as I was home from work, I got the pressure washer out (just to clarify, there is no hose pipe ban here) and blasted off all the muck that the degreasant had been working in to. Then after having my tea, most of the driveway & car had dried out (it was another hot day).
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So after drying off the chassis & wiping it all down with brake cleaner, I sprayed on a few coats of primer. Leaving that to dry I was then top-coating the prop shaft & cross member. I’d bought a new gearbox mount, as when investigating the leak, I saw the mount didn’t look healthy. It was quite soft and squidgy.
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With the primer on the chassis dry, I top-coated it with chassis black and left it, as it’s old style paint that takes about 12 hours to dry. For now, I was just doing the bits around the gearbox were there was a distinct lack of paint. The rest looks ok and has a good coating of waxoil everwhere.

Thursday

The paint had dried and all was looking cleaner underneath.
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So it was in with the replacement gearbox. Although the old one came out easily, the re-fitting was a pain, its a very round bottomed gearbox, that doesn’t want to balance nicely, but after some effort it was in. The prop & cross member (with new mount) were ready to go too.
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The 3/8 UNC bolt through the mount into the overdrive wouldn’t tighten, there were very few threads left in there. So I ended up tapping the boss out to an M10 as the resultant hole was very nearly the right size for tapping to an M10. The new bolt tightened up ok, but I didn’t go FT with it, just in case. After all the fiddling around, I didn’t have enough time left to fit the gear lever & air filter (removed to allow the engine to tilt back). I'd scratched my new paint work in a couple of places, so brushed in a second coat of chassis black where I could get around the gearbox, which was most of it in fairness.

Friday

Home from work in decent time, I decided I’d make some gear lever modifications before fitting it. In the past, it’s had a Triumph lever sleeved & welded on to the base of the Ford lever; giving the over-drive switch on the lever, rather than the dash. Although I never minded the long switch off the dash, I’d got used to the Triumph switch in my Spitfire & driving this. However, the lever was a bit too long for me, so I cut about 1.5” out of it, making it about the same length as the original and just above the height of the centre console.
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Whilst welding it & sleeving it again, I managed to drop the lever & cracked the cap, which is now held on with tape as in the above photo. I’ve got a new one on the way. I also added a little bit of a crank angle over to the drivers side & modified the base to better fit the slotted selector arm so it reduced the slop in the lever.

With that done and the box filled with oil, it was time for a test drive.

I knew the box in the car had the high ratio 2nd gear, which was a mean performance mod. In the day. The replacement box does not have this, just standard ratios, but for a road car, I’ve got to say I prefer the gear spacing, I must be some kind of heretic! The gearbox is definitely quieter, no rumbling bearings, so much so, I can hear the diff more… I think the new gearbox mount has helped smooth out the drive train too. I prefer the shorter, re-angled gear lever, but it still rattles. I think it’s the gapping between the lever & the housing where the pivot bolt mounts, so I’ve ordered some wavy spring washers to fit in there to add some pre-load, fingers crossed that gets rid of the annoying rattle. To be confirmed...

I just need to ensure the gearbox is holding oil, before giving my driveway a deep clean. But after using it on Saturday evening for a decent length trip, all seems well – with the engine running cleanly too, although I’ve not taken it out in the heat of the day again yet. I must stop letting this coupe get in the way of working on my SS1 race car, although it has actually spurred me on again with that too.
Last edited by BigBobPilot on Mon Jul 23, 2018 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car in build
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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Post by MikeyBikey » Mon Jul 23, 2018 9:55 pm

Brilliant stuff.


Is we sideways yet...

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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by philhoward » Mon Jul 23, 2018 10:19 pm

Nice job 8)


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The Doctors Coupe - SRE 353G

Post by David Tew » Tue Jul 24, 2018 9:17 am

Hi Ben,

I'm really glad the gearbox has found a good home.

Regarding the gear-lever rattle, do you have a spring between the mounting bolt and the horizontal change mechanism? I have seen some Coupes without them and they do rattle. I can probably find a spring if you don't have one, although you might also need to adapt the mounting bolt if it doesn't have a little nipple in the centre to attach the spring.


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