SE6a USM 99T

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

Moderators: scimjim, philhoward, erikscimitardemon, Roger Pennington, Lukeyboy46

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 15 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Tue Jun 05, 2018 9:01 am

small updates for the record.

new quick release battery terminal fitted to help me sleep at night with the car being in an integral garage. probably silly, but you never know.

multi earth terminal fitted on the battery Negative post too rather than one mass of connections. easy jobs, but needed doing. then found bonnet wouldn't shut.. doh! small bolt trim did the trick.

temperature sender lash up/fan thingy installed. separate post on this... just for your delight.

visit to GW carried out and new gearbox mount, exhaust rubbers and speedo cable purchased so these are next.

thanks, Ian.
Battery connections.jpg
Battery connections.jpg (147.29 KiB) Viewed 1092 times
temp switch thingy 2.jpg
temp switch thingy 2.jpg (145.63 KiB) Viewed 1092 times


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 15 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:43 am

updates for the record.

gearbox cross member removed and new mount fixed in place. needed doing!

as with other posts on here the part supplied from GW was different to the one fitted but it all went together OK on the gearbox "stub" so was fitted. the metal channel profile was the same width just slightly shallower. not worried and has to be better than the one that came off. cross member was slightly bent from being in contact with the road at some point preventing the removal of one bolt. straightened, cleaned in parts washer and fresh POR15 applied.
gearbox mount 2.jpg
old insert remained on the gearbox after cross member removal
gearbox mount 2.jpg (156.65 KiB) Viewed 1038 times
gearbox mount 3.jpg
ready to be changed!
gearbox mount 3.jpg (168.4 KiB) Viewed 1038 times
gearbox mount.jpg
Steel insert profile
gearbox mount.jpg (160.43 KiB) Viewed 1038 times
gearbox crossmember 1.jpg
gearbox crossmember 1.jpg (91.95 KiB) Viewed 1038 times
speedo cable changed! after much confusion the right cable was ordered and fitted. they are different for manual and auto... needed child hands and 3 wrist joints to connect to the head unit, but got there.
speedo cable gearbox end.jpg
check you have the right one next time!!
speedo cable gearbox end.jpg (105.93 KiB) Viewed 1038 times
exhaust clamps changed.

spot the old one for 5 bonus points...
exhaust clamps.jpg
spot the difference?
exhaust clamps.jpg (129.96 KiB) Viewed 1038 times
other jobs reversing lights... the switch appears broken after various tests and its part of the inhibitor. so probably just goint to wire in a toggle switch as its hard to remove and pretty expensive...

that's it for now, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 15 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Mon Jun 18, 2018 11:48 am

oh, and the auto box filter changed and sump pan cleaned and covered in POR15.... new gasket fitted. hair full of ATF when the sump pan came off. no drain plug!?
auto box sump.jpg
auto box sump.jpg (131.53 KiB) Viewed 1038 times
thanks, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 15 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Fri Jun 22, 2018 9:38 am

Just a quick note..

dropped the car off its ramps in the garage last night and had a quick check round before test run after the few jobs done.

after filling the auto box with new fluid (via the dipstick tube with an oil syringe (200ml each squirt!) off i went.

great news. I have a speedometer that works, a gearbox that doesnt jump around, no more fuel leaks at the tank, smoother changing gearbox, exhausts that dont rattle and a working reversing light albeit on a manual switch.

happy man, and able to do some motoring again.

hurrah! :D


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 24070
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 528 times
Contact:

SE6a USM 99T

Post by philhoward » Fri Jun 22, 2018 10:15 am

Nice work, Ian :D


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 15 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Sun Jul 01, 2018 4:14 pm

Afternoon all,

My first experiences of fuel vaporising this afternoon. Went for short run of about 3 miles. Parked up for 20 minutes and when came to leave car wouldn’t start. Fortunately I had my small mobile garage in the rear compartment. :D Air filter off, open throttle few times and no fuel.

Fuel line off from pump and suck. No fuel. Watering can on fuel line and mechanical pump. Suck suck suck . . Yuk, fuel! Pipe back on. Few cranks and fired up. Drove couple of miles home but soon as slowing down fueling issue again.
So driving with left foot braking and keeping 2000 rpm. (Auto). Home bonnet up. Blimey hot under there.

So reroute fuel line perhaps and maybe electric pump at tank. I assume that’s what it was as never had fuel problem since carb replacement and the mechanical pump looks almost new.

Good news it was fixed easily enough roadside, though could have done without it. It is very hot again today though.

Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 35927
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 113 times
Been thanked: 823 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by scimjim » Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:00 am

i doubt its vaporisation - to evaporate a float bowl full of fuel and all of the fuel lines would take hours. I’d suspect the pump first?

I was in Brighton over the weekend in 8 ball and it had a misfire which turned into lack of power and eventually cutting out (long story) but as part of the fault finding I whipped the top off the carb and the float bowl was full - after going up a long hill in first at 5000rpm I couldn’t touch the coil, thermostat housing or even the spare wheel tray as they were too hot and it was 31 degrees outside.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 24070
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 528 times
Contact:

SE6a USM 99T

Post by philhoward » Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:11 am

Have you replaced ALL the rubber fuel hoses (including the one from the tank)? Only takes a hairline crack for the pump to suck air, not fuel (and not leak fuel out) which is more likely in hot weather.

Does the pump have sufficient gaskets fitted between it and the front cover? Should be quite a thick gasket (around 5mm from memory?) there which serves 2 purposes - provides some heat insulation and also sets the stroke of the pump correctly.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 15 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Mon Jul 02, 2018 9:21 am

aah, i see....

thank you guys. i go on holiday today for 2 weeks so will investigate on my return the pump and its gasket situation. its a new pump (not installed by myself, so not sure).

lines dont leak and the rubbers look new, but again i didnt do them, so another relatively cheap fix even if it isnt broken... if you follow.

will also put on new fuel line clips at the same time. and then see what happens. at least i got it going again and home, without the lift of shame... :D

thanks again, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 15 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Fri Nov 23, 2018 12:54 pm

its been a while but i have been using the car a little over the last few months with a few niggles one of which was the fact that the auto box sump was leaking after my filter and fluid change.

i couldn't find a torque setting for the gearbox sump bolts (is there one?) so just nipped up to 8ft/lb. it leaked... so checked levels (according to the documented process on here) and all was reasonably well and nipped up a little more. thought it was fixed but it wasn't.

so i have taken the sump off again and got a new gasket. i got covered in ATF both times so get fed up with that and have put in a sump drain plug now. pics below.... cut a little slot in the plug on the inside of the sump to allow some drainage. i have checked the mating surfaces and all seem reasonable (though the holes in the sump suggest some over tightening in the past). i will fit new gasket with some sealant and try again.

other than that the car is behaving OK with just the odd misfire after about 40 minutes running when at junctions/stationary... to be investigated, but feels like shortage of fuel (its a nuisance as with an auto its hard to rev at a junction without moving! or thumping it into gear! whereas a clutch you can at least rev the engine and slip the clutch).. maybe float height or something (its a new carb and i didn't check to be honest).

otter switch and new second hand radiator to fit. that's about all really on the urgentish list.

thanks, Ian.
sump plug 2.jpg
sump plug 2.jpg (141.57 KiB) Viewed 202 times
sump plug 1.jpg
sump plug 1.jpg (156.34 KiB) Viewed 202 times


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

User avatar
AJL Electronics
RSSOC Member
Posts: 7479
Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:49 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 208 times
Contact:

SE6a USM 99T

Post by AJL Electronics » Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:15 pm

The sump gasket will settle, so you need to go around them a few times until it seals. I just use hand pressure rather than a specific torque, but 8Lbs sounds far too low to me. I would expect at least twice that.


Yes, we can mend your Scimitar!
Order your Scimitar parts any hour of the day at http://www.classicmicrocars.com (member's discounts).

Fancy a holiday in Gael, France? http://www.ianrhu.com

There is no point trying to teach a pig to sing. It doesn't work and it annoys the pig.

User avatar
AJL Electronics
RSSOC Member
Posts: 7479
Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:49 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 41 times
Been thanked: 208 times
Contact:

SE6a USM 99T

Post by AJL Electronics » Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:19 pm

As suspected, the book says 12 to 16 Lbs ft.


Yes, we can mend your Scimitar!
Order your Scimitar parts any hour of the day at http://www.classicmicrocars.com (member's discounts).

Fancy a holiday in Gael, France? http://www.ianrhu.com

There is no point trying to teach a pig to sing. It doesn't work and it annoys the pig.

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 14 times
Been thanked: 15 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Fri Nov 23, 2018 1:56 pm

Brilliant AJL,

thanks very much for the assistance. hopefully have more luck this time round.

cheers :pint


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Post Reply

Return to “Project Progress”