SE6a USM 99T

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Tinker man
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SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Wed Apr 25, 2018 12:03 pm

good morning all,

you may remember that Landowner recently sold his red 6a after some debate on here. well i can reveal that i am the new owner to those that are interested.

firstly a big thank you to Pete, what a lovely man. had a great morning chatting and talking generally about cars, engines and all sorts. when it came to price we were both happy, so there we have it. the car was only 15 minutes away and it all fell into place.

why did i buy it? well, as you may or may not know i have a SE5a V8 project on here that i love, but finding that its taking longer than anticipated to do things and whilst i have owned it i have certainly fallen for the GTE range. the idea is that i will have a scimitar to trundle around in and enjoy whilst finishing the project. the car fits the bill needing minimal work for the MOT (in theory) and i am not going to be doing anything to the car (you will be pleased to note) other than maintain/drive/enjoy.

there was some debate on condition/value etc and from my perspective i would say that its a nice enough car to drive as it is. it has faults for sure. some crazing and a few scratches. its had an auto to manual choke change at some point and now there is no choke at all... the rear rusted area isnt so bad but will be cleaned up and plated. cause? the rear hatch drain tubes are rusted out and the drain "pipes" are not connected so the water runs straight down the steelwork. if that makes sense.

small fuel leak (fixed). new front tyres required, so 4 budget Kumho ecowings ordered, needs washer bottle and motor, so inexpensive universal one ordered and to be fitted. failed at MOT on emissions, mixture needs resetting, probably due to no choke. rear hatch not locking, or even on a catch, and the electrical gremlins for the headlights. i am going to post separately on that in the relevant section and would really appreciate any help as i am scratching my head.

ignition bypass wire on that needs looking at.

couple of hoses need replacing.

but overall i am very happy and looking forward to a few weekends work and obtaining that MOT. she drives nicely, the brakes work fine. inside is pretty good and standard.

i dont want to get too sidetracked from the project, but really happy to have one that i can drive! soon anyway.... PLEASE take a look at my electrical head scratcher if you think you can help.

couple of pictures below. you will note that this time i loaded the car onto the trailer the correct way round. though the number plate was a bit heath robinson....

thanks, Ian.
USM 2.jpg
USM 2.jpg (159.38 KiB) Viewed 1175 times
USM 1.jpg
USM 1.jpg (189.03 KiB) Viewed 1175 times


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Thu Apr 26, 2018 8:28 pm

Small update.....

I now have lights! All good after lots of help on here. Bad earths and melted connector on light switch. Treated the car to some new lights at the same time.

Next on the list is the wipers and washer that are also being somewhat reticent. A HUGE THANKYOU TO Phil H for selflessly giving up an hour or so of his evening tonight to give me some ideas and a general look over the car. It’s really appreciated. Though the car made a liar of me with suddenly displaying 12v at the wiper motor when it has refused to even show continuity most of the day. Embarrassing but I will take it as an easy fix.

That’s one off the list.....

Thanks, ian


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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Post by philhoward » Thu Apr 26, 2018 8:53 pm

It was my pleasure, Ian. As mentioned earlier, I suspect the electrics are likely to inexplicably spring back into life with some more “Tinkering” ;)

The engine does seem a peach!


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Post by Rev Light » Fri Apr 27, 2018 11:29 am

When I first bought my SE5A, I had al sorts of things spring into life when I actually started using it regularly. The Rev Counter was the biggest surprise. One day it just decided to work and has done ever since.

Good luck.

Steve


SE5a 'Fancier'

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Post by Tinker man » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:43 am

thanks for the encouragement Steve!

well just a quick update.

rusty section at the back is now fixed and painted. didn't really need a plate but it got one anyway to be safe.

lights still working fine, so happy that is a fix.

wipers and washer were not working at all. after a bit of wiggling, cleaning etc still nothing.. further investigation showed that the 6DA unit wasn't fastened to an earth and had no power. that has been rectified and the wipers now work fine. but ideally need a replacement set of arms and blades. the washer bottle replaced with a universal one and all is good!

bottom hose changed on radiator.

still to do: adjust carb as running too rich, as I said before probably because there is no choke mechanism other than a bent wire to pull... i will do a wanted add and see if anything turns up, but failing that a new carb at some point.
new tyres to fit. tyres-guru only delivered 2 out of 4 so waiting for the others to arrive. hopefully today, fingers crossed. then i can go back to the MOT man :D

the ignition still needs the bypass removing (though it operates off the ignition switch). there is power to the ballast but no power coming out the other end, so new one on order.

that's it for now.... few meaningless pictures attached to keep folk interested.
rear repair.jpg
rear repair plate
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washer bottle.jpg
washer bottle
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Post by philhoward » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:49 am

So it does have a 6DA unit!


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Post by philhoward » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:50 am

As you’ve got a non-ballast ignition kit to go on, just remove the white/yellow wire and ditch the ballast - feed wire to the ballast becomes your coil +ve


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Post by Tinker man » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:54 am

yes Phil, as you suspected..

but it wasn't where you would have thought. it was fastened to the plastic under dash. so no earth and was never going to work.

no wonder you couldn't find it. a bit of contact cleaner and a blow with the airline, fastened to a nice earth and all good again.

re the ignition, is that all i have to do? it isn't overly clear to me. as you say i have the 12V coil and electronic gubbins so probably makes sense to do it now. but it runs so nice i am a bit worried of opening a can of worms... fretting about whether its best alone!

thanks, Ian.


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Post by philhoward » Mon Apr 30, 2018 10:58 am

Personally, I'd leave the ignition kit on the shelf and reinstate the ballast resistor - wasn't sure if you were going to fit the electronics yet or not. It is just those simple mods but as you say, it does run beautifully. There are plenty still running on the points and condenser and if there's going to be some fiddling with the carb to reinstate the choke, then it's handy to only change one thing at a time.


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Post by Tinker man » Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:01 am

yes, i tend to agree... if its not broke etc etc.

sorting the choke is more important at this stage. and the long list of other things to do when the MOT is in hand (he said hopefully). excited enough to start getting insurance quotes :D


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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Post by rebel alliance » Mon Apr 30, 2018 11:11 am

I would second that ; mine all run on points never had any problems..seems that you got a very good car there 😊



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Post by Tinker man » Tue May 01, 2018 8:22 am

Hi Rebel,

yes i am happy with the car. it has lots of niggles and some faults that need correcting sooner rather than later but overall she is what i would describe as "honest" i guess. should suit me fine just to trundle about it. actually the car goes quite well. needs gearbox oil and filter change perhaps. paintwork is crazed and chipped gel goat in places and the bonnet scratched badly, window drivers side doesn't operate, worst of all the radio works but my cassette player doesn't!! how can i look retro cool with my window stuck up and no 70's rock playing???

so update:

hazards decided they were not working. now fixed. power feed wasn't working for some reason. replace that and its connectors. cleaned the relays and switch. sorted!

reversing lights dont work. bring a live from the battery to the rear and they do. so suspecting gearbox switch/cable. there are 12 v at the rear but not able to light a bulb (not sure of terminology) not enough current? have to investigate further.

sorted the carb over fueling. the mixture screws were turned "out" 8.5 turns on one side and 6.5 on the other. went back to Weber tuning basics and now it runs sweet as a nut with 2.5 both sides. another result for the MOT fail i think that showed high fueling emissions.

slight weep from the radiator core :-( so bottle of radweld for now. need to keep eyes open for another rad in due course.

i do have an electrical question though please.......

the ballast resistor has failed i thin,k as previously described, and one is on order. or i have the electronic set to install. BUT in the meantime there is a switched live going direct to the coil and she starts on the button. my question is "now there is a direct feed to the coil of 12V will this overload the coil and get it hot as it is a ballasted coil. should i change the coil over to a 12v one in the short term? or will it be ok?" please excuse my electrical dumbness. i dont want a risk of things getting too hot and fire. i would really appreciate any guidance.

thanks in advance, Ian.


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Post by scimjim » Tue May 01, 2018 8:26 am

Yes I think the ballast coil will burn out early if it’s getting 12v all of the time. I shouldn’t think it’ll catch fire (at least I’ve never heard of one doing that) but it will get hot and eventually fail.


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Post by Tinker man » Tue May 01, 2018 8:51 am

thank you Jim,

so should change over to the 12 V coil then until i decide whether to fit electronic ignition, or replace the ballast resistor instead and go back to the original ballasted coil? i dont suppose it will go on fire, but with the state of the wiring issues i have found so far i am a little paranoid (wonderful Sabbath lp) i guess. i will put a isolator switch on the battery until i am happy and the car has proven itself, as it will be kept in an integral garage and that would be an expensive event should the worst happen (and potentially risky to the occupants). the good lady wouldn't be impressed.

thanks again for the swift reply and help. Ian.


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Post by philhoward » Tue May 01, 2018 10:58 am

You should be fine using the "new" non-ballast coil you've got and do away with the ballast as previously mentioned. If you're in any doubt, I'll see about popping in one evening?


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