Ians GTC rebuild. And now with MOT

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Ians GTC rebuild. And now with MOT

Post by GeoffTE » Fri Sep 13, 2019 2:14 pm

Well done Ian, can't wait to see it. 👍


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Post by GTC Ian » Fri Sep 13, 2019 2:20 pm

Thanks everyone. The last few weeks it sems I was taking one step forward and 2 back. Now the biggest decision to make. To pinstripe or not.


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Post by GTC Ian » Fri Sep 27, 2019 8:35 am

Disaster.. After getting an MOT and looking forward to driving her in what remains of the good weather, the gearbox has decided to pack up. Not completely but wont change gear. Ive checked the oil level-ok and the vacuum pipe- also ok. So it only leaves the option of dropping the box and getting a refurbished replacement. Norfolk Automatics will do a box with torque converter for £800. Comes with a 2 year guarantee. Shame the car fund is now on empty after the spending spree so far. I guess she didnt fancy being driven through the winter and just threw her toys out the pram.


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Ians GTC rebuild. And now with MOT

Post by gtcse8 » Fri Sep 27, 2019 8:42 am

Really unlucky Ian. :cry:
I have a known Good box and converter for cheap if you need it ?.

Getting it to you may be a problem though.

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Ians GTC rebuild. And now with MOT

Post by AJL Electronics » Fri Sep 27, 2019 10:00 am

GTC Ian wrote:
Fri Sep 27, 2019 8:35 am
the gearbox has decided to pack up. Not completely but wont change gear. Ive checked the oil level-ok and the vacuum pipe- also ok.
Very strange for it to do that, it's almost impossible but will consult my factory manuals.

Now would be an ideal opportunity to locate and fit an A4LD with SE5 propshaft though. It is largely a bolt on job ignoring the shifter. Some people grind out the detents(nasty) or others fit the late Scorpio bug eye shifter to match. If you DO go for an A4LD, ensure that it only has TWO pins in the TCC socket. Any more pins means that it will be incompatible. Very early types are cable kickdown, then they changed to solenoid actuation. That type needs the Ford timer relay adding to control it. It is the most likely type that you will find though.

If you prefer a rebuild anyway, I have a secondhand very early LD here that you can have for £50, but it will probably need a rebuild before use. Not sure if I have a torque converter or not with it.


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Ians GTC rebuild. And now with MOT

Post by AJL Electronics » Fri Sep 27, 2019 10:03 am

Can the gearbox be shifted manually? What happens when you come out of Park or Neutral? There is a standard fault with 1st / Reverse servo O rings that allow the fluid to bypass. That gives you either very delayed engagement (30 secs can be) or in cold weather, none at all. Simple fix and I may have the bits in stock.


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Post by GTC Ian » Fri Sep 27, 2019 3:11 pm

It can be shifted in 1 & 2 but will not work when I engage (or try to) D. What drive I have is very jerky. Reverse was working sort of, when I put it in the garage.
As for taking it apart, that is a dark art and not for me. I would rather have the whole box done. Ive done manual gearboxes in the past but never an auto.
Thanks for the offer though Andy


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Post by GTC Ian » Fri Sep 27, 2019 3:13 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Fri Sep 27, 2019 8:42 am
Really unlucky Ian. :cry:
I have a known Good box and converter for cheap if you need it ?.

Getting it to you may be a problem though.

Mark
Cheers Mark. I will bare you in mind


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Ians GTC rebuild. And now with MOT

Post by scimjim » Fri Sep 27, 2019 4:22 pm

If you’re being forced to remove the box, I’d recommend an A4LD - it transforms the driving IMHO.


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Post by AJL Electronics » Fri Sep 27, 2019 4:23 pm

GTC Ian wrote:
Fri Sep 27, 2019 3:11 pm
It can be shifted in 1 & 2 but will not work when I engage (or try to) D. What drive I have is very jerky. Reverse was working sort of, when I put it in the garage.
As for taking it apart, that is a dark art and not for me. I would rather have the whole box done. Ive done manual gearboxes in the past but never an auto.
It is a VERY easy job. Remove sump, unscrew filter, remove four bolts on the servo housing and pull out the piston. Change the two O rings and put it back as it was! Nothing scary at all and easy to do from underneath.
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Yes, we can mend your Scimitar!
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Post by guybetts » Fri Sep 27, 2019 4:48 pm

Ian, I did exactly what Andy has described above (on his guidance) and confirm it is easy to do. Be aware that you can end up wearing a bit of ATF when removing the piston :roll: , but aside from that it was simple. (I did it in situ)

The only bit I struggled with was trying to remove excess fluid as I overfilled a bit. Because you fill through the dipstick, it's a right faf :?

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Post by GTC Ian » Wed Oct 09, 2019 3:52 pm

Guy what were the symptoms of your gearbox that led you to change the O rings? Had a mess around with the car on saturday and on a run up a long road near us she lurched into top and boy did that engine go. Up to 80 in no time at all. She never picked up like that before. Me thinks the engine rebuild was worth the money.Then slowed right down and the change down was really harsh. Still wouldnt want to go far in her until the box properly sorted.


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Post by guybetts » Wed Oct 09, 2019 7:03 pm

Ian, my symptoms were more like a slipping clutch 😮
It was slow to change up and took quite heavy braking to hold it when coming to a stop (like it wasn't disengaging)
Changing through the gears wasn't affected, i.e. drive to reverse, drive to 1 or 2 etc. All gears were working but with symptoms above.
I can't remember if kick down was working properly, as to be really honest, I didnt want to break something.


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Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Oct 09, 2019 8:20 pm

GTC Ian wrote:
Wed Oct 09, 2019 3:52 pm
Then slowed right down and the change down was really harsh.
Just a thought but what type of fluid has it got in it?


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Post by GTC Ian » Tue Oct 15, 2019 8:35 am

I hope so Roger. I have ATF type Q. I am assumimng that is correct for the C3 with a red dipstick. Very confusing when trying to get the correct grade of oil. The main problem being a lot of motor factors just stock dexron grades for later cars.


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