Spegru SE6a

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spegru
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Post by spegru » Wed Dec 26, 2018 10:58 am

Still struggling to get the gear lever pin out even after applying blow lamp. Hardened steel I think. any suggestions on removal?

In the mean time though, I've basically sorted the problem of the PAS pump, with (I hope) suitable use of spacers. Most of the following pics show the difficult-to-understand rear bracket. I've managed to use it in a seemingly effective way but without using one of the bolt holes as there is nothing to attach it to! Maybe there is a missing part? Oldconn's Photos earlier in the thread show 2 brackets on the back of the pump although neither seems to be the same as mine.
Still, it all seems very solid now though and the sliding adjustment slots on front and rear brackets seem to work together too.
The only remaining conundrum is which wheel on the crank pulley I should be using. Looks from the angle of the belt that I am on the wrong one but my belt is too short to try the larger one
Attachments
2018-12-23 11.22.38.jpg
belt seems out of line. I suspect it should be on the other pulley but this one is too short for that!
2018-12-23 11.22.38.jpg (151.53 KiB) Viewed 2438 times
2018-12-23 11.23.00.jpg
Pump is nice and upright and is also very solidly mounted
2018-12-23 11.23.00.jpg (168.98 KiB) Viewed 2438 times
2018-12-23 11.22.25.jpg
back of pump with sickle shaped bracket and adjustment slot/spacer. One hole unused!
2018-12-23 11.22.25.jpg (140.36 KiB) Viewed 2438 times
2018-12-23 11.21.53.jpg
back of pump with sickle shaped bracket seen from above. Another spacer in use
2018-12-23 11.21.53.jpg (102.22 KiB) Viewed 2438 times
2018-12-23 11.21.09.jpg
back of pump with sickle shaped bracket looping around the return pipe. One hole unused!
2018-12-23 11.21.09.jpg (92.17 KiB) Viewed 2438 times
Last edited by spegru on Wed Dec 26, 2018 11:07 am, edited 1 time in total.



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Post by scimjim » Wed Dec 26, 2018 11:05 am

Definitely on the wrong part of the pulley - but will it be straight, even on the forward part?


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Post by spegru » Wed Dec 26, 2018 11:23 am

Looks like it would be alot straighter anyway. The only thing is I could probably alter the pump position using different spacers so that the current pulley lines up - but there is a significant difference in pulley size which I should think alters the amount of assistance. Not sure which way to go with that.



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Post by spegru » Thu Dec 27, 2018 8:31 pm

Well the gear lever situation has been resolved by the purchase of a specific 5mm straight pin punch, plus wedging the lever axle/pivot pin into the vice using two sockets rather than relying on the alloy housing. Still a rather surprising number of blows with a heavy hammer needed but it did the job.
Now it's all be dismantled I've given the levers a good clean and grease up - and more importantly inserted a large penny washer, suitably modified to fit the shaft has been fitted to take up some of the left to right slack between the operating levers. Oddly there appears to be a washer in the workshop diagram (item 26) but it was absent. Pretty sure it's never been apart before....

Now working to create the quick shift mods by redrilling the actual gearbox side levers to have shorter pivot length and thus shorter travel. Although the ones in the linked article seemed to have been shortened by about a third (33% quicker shift) I decided not to go so far, going down to 80% of the original length to get a 20% shorter shift. I'm even doing reverse!

Will have to come up with some pics when I'm done.....



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Post by spegru » Fri Dec 28, 2018 7:07 pm

Here's my alternative modded gear linkage rods with the shortened pivot gearbox arms. The rods I threaded myself (M10) rather than using threaded rod as it looks better!. I decided to do reverse even though it's a bit pointless just for the sake of completeness - but at least the gear lever throw will match on all the gears. I got quite nice sharp bends in the rods by leaning on them until I felt they were about to bend and then hit with a large hammer right next to the vice I was using. Better than just bending from the end by hand i think.
I have already bent the gear lever end levers to allow more space between them due the the new clevis joints. That may require some more adjustment.That slightly dodgy looking 5mm countersunk bolt/screw is there in order to locate neutral

The only thing that's holding me up now is getting the pin back into the bottom of the gear lever!
BTW yes I have been careful not to allow the gear change swivel rods retract into the the box.
Attachments
2018-12-28 12.51.29.jpg
M10 threaded Clevis joints. the pins that come with them are a nice fit into the lever arms and their rubber/plastic ends
2018-12-28 12.51.29.jpg (178.24 KiB) Viewed 2310 times
2018-12-28 12.51.24.jpg
Gearbox operating levers shortened by 20% with new holes. Being careful not to let the gbox swivel rods retract inside!
2018-12-28 12.51.24.jpg (206.41 KiB) Viewed 2310 times
2018-12-28 12.50.57.jpg
The full set in same order old to new
2018-12-28 12.50.57.jpg (189.88 KiB) Viewed 2310 times



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Post by spegru » Sun Dec 30, 2018 11:40 am

Well improved linkage all done. Much nicer, still easy to operate in spite of the reduced leverage and best of all - no more knocking on the transmission tunnel!
One additional note is that it was possible to finesse the routing of the lever rods by swivelling them slightly at their ends and also to tweak the angles with a bit of off car vice work.
I was surprised at the sensitivity of the neutral gate/plane between all three left to right positions of the lever, but with all the adjustment available no problem to sort out
Pleased to manage all three rods with one 1m length of 10mm rod



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Post by spegru » Wed Jan 02, 2019 9:33 pm

Moving onto more mundane things I need to reconnect the fuel sender. My Tank is stainless which according to http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/view ... &start=45 means it's a Don Pither tank.
One of electrical connectors on my original sender fell off so it had to be replaced - but which wire goes where? The sender came from QRG and is the same in that thread but there appears to be a little uncertainty about it so I'd like to be sure?
Attachments
2019-01-02 20.25.56.jpg
three connections - presumably Sender, Low fuel light and earth - but which is which?
2019-01-02 20.25.56.jpg (185.32 KiB) Viewed 2218 times



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Post by spegru » Mon Jan 14, 2019 6:58 pm

Well Andy at QRG told me that Earth is the middle one Green/Black goes to the top and Green/Orange at the bottom. The sender is fixed in one position so it's not possible for it to be sideways or whatever
Not yet 100% sure if mine is working as the level is so low although oddly the low fuel light is flashing. I'm not sure if that is normal



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Post by spegru » Mon Jan 14, 2019 7:02 pm

Rear fog light query: As mine were both broken I need new ones. I thought about modern LED types but then realised that the rubber section of the bumper has a special cutout so it would look odd not to use as intended.
Judging from the bumper moulding it seems that the original lamp had a curved back whereas many on ebay etc are more rectangular
So I'm guessing the correct type should be as used on Minis etc, made I think by Lucas
Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Mini ... 3449378761 . Does that seem correct?



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Post by Roger Pennington » Tue Jan 15, 2019 1:19 pm

While Raydyots were, as said, the standard fitment, note that they were modified with a different bracket to make them rear-mounted, rather than overhead-mounted :)


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Post by spegru » Mon Feb 04, 2019 9:14 pm

Can someone tell me what thread the PAS pipe fittings that go into the rack are supposed to be please?



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Post by spegru » Tue Feb 05, 2019 3:44 pm

Looks like it could be M14 *1.5?



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Post by spegru » Fri Feb 08, 2019 9:52 am

Rattly Bonnet?
The Bonnet of my SE6a seems to rattle internally. Am i right in thinking they put a layer of metal mesh inside?
I imagine this will be a cause of unnecessary road noise irritation. So I was thinking of drilling a couple of holes in the underside ribs and injecting with builders foam.
Anyone else done this?



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Post by philhoward » Fri Feb 08, 2019 10:40 am

It’s the radio suppression which is a perforated sheet. Builders foam should stop it rattling is have thought.


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Post by spegru » Wed Apr 03, 2019 11:07 pm

I've now been driving my car! Ive never driven or even been driven in a Scimitar before!
Passed the MOT a couple of weeks ago and liking it so far.
Very pleased I fitted PAS although I've got a temporary return pipe (it was M16/1.5 in the end)

I shall drive it like this for a little while, checking how it all is - before going for a respray some time in the spring

I've got a few questions so far though:
1. A bit of a clunk somewhere under the seat area when coming off the gas or booting a bit it in reverse . Anything typical for that?
2. Tappety Essex v6. Even though I adjusted the clearances (very slightly, using the info from web on pairs of valves rocking vs adjusting). Is this normal or did I do something wrong?
3. Where is the jack and handle supposed to be kept? I thought it would be in one of the boot side boxes but it seems too big
4. Ignition timing: I've only looked at this static so far so what should the timing be at Idle speed etc?

Thanks
spegru



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