Spegru SE6a

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Post by scimjim » Fri Oct 26, 2018 4:04 pm

Just taken the pump off a 6b and I can confirm that you don’t have 6b brackets - they’re quite different.


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SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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Post by spegru » Mon Oct 29, 2018 8:46 am

Thanks for your investigations Roger and Scimjim. My car is '79 SE6a and has the original engine as far as I know, although the car came without power steering - this is a conversion. I have no idea of the car the parts came from. Having said that it does look like the one in the parts book drawing.
So this means that I would still really like a photo of the PAS pump setup but that it would need to be from an early SE6a. Maybe the shape (Squareish/Rhomboid) of the pump itself is relevant or maybe not - it's really an understanding of the rear mounting of the pump onto the engine block that I need.
I also need a low pressure hydraulic pipe since mine has gone missing. I suppose it is a metal pipe about 2ft long with a rubber flexible end that does not have a crimped on fitting



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Post by spegru » Wed Oct 31, 2018 5:37 pm

I still need photos of the rear mountings for a PAS pump on an SE6a (Essex) - but not those earlier on this thread but more similar to the parts book diagram that is also shown earlier on this thread.

However another little foible has shown up as I reassemble the dashboard etc.When the car came to me the steering column had been (ahem) interfered with - probably due to a lack of keys.
Therefore the column shroud was off, as was the ignition lock itself

Now I come to reassemble using a new ignition lock I find that the hole in the shroud does not quite line up. It nearly does but I cannot push the bottom half of the shroud up far enough in to the underside of the main clock panel
So my question is, is the lock incorrect or is there some other problem?
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Post by spegru » Sun Nov 04, 2018 8:54 pm

Still looking for Pics of the rear PAS pump mountings (SE6a, Essex possibly early - just like the one in the parts book earlier in this thread ) - but diagram unfortunately quite unclear on how the back of the pump is mounted
Also does anyone think there is anything wrong with my ignition switch as it wont quite fit the shroud (Pics above)

Anyway as aside from all that I just did the longest run so far in my SE6! - OK so it was just around the close I live in but still it's a record for me!
Yes it's very low! Adjustable suspension that's at it's lowest setting due to never having set it up at all. Looks good I think - just a pity about the 1.5" ground clearance to the exhaust! The local speed bumps won't like i so it'll have to go up quite alot!

Reason for wanting to drive it at all in that condition was to see if it's reasonably smooth before finishing & painting etc etc etc. Not very possible to tell much as I didn't get out of 1st gear - but at least the reverse selector arm didn't break off like it did last time I attempted this (so useful to have a welder at home - fixed within about 30mins) about 3 months ago.

Unfortunately though, aside from the noise of the handbrake cables dragging along the road (I've not reattached them yet), there was also what I can only describe as a fairly loud Ticking noise - seemingly coming from the left side of the rear even at those low speeds. It could be something catching where I've not yet reattached properly but unfortunately I am thinking I may have differential problem. Seemed to be there continuously though even in a straight line so I'm not sure.
I can still drive the car for fruther tests but only at similar very low speeds as it's not at all road legal at present.
So - Rear end Ticking noises. What do you reckon?
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Post by scimjim » Sun Nov 04, 2018 11:30 pm

Blowing exhaust can sound just like a tick?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Post by demonbluedays » Mon Nov 05, 2018 12:38 am

Tend to agree with Jim, my other car had a ticking noise that I thought was from a coil pack, it turned out to be the forward flex hose section had a small space between it and the next section which "ticked" as it was opened by exhaust gas. (Did the tissue paper test to confirm it)


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Post by spegru » Mon Nov 05, 2018 9:13 am

Thanks but definitely not engine related as it only happens when in motion. Perhaps I would better have described the noise as a Click rather than a Tick.
No sensation through the drive line though, just a noise.
What type of noise would a dodgy diff make in a straight line?
Last edited by spegru on Mon Nov 05, 2018 10:06 am, edited 1 time in total.



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Post by Old and Slow » Mon Nov 05, 2018 10:00 am

Speedo cable about to give up he ghost?


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Post by spegru » Mon Nov 05, 2018 10:10 am

My speedo is not yet connected (at either end).
Looks like I'll have to climb under and check for obvious problems like brake pipes catching the prop - I don't think so but possible
Oh! I just had a thought I wonder how close my disconnected hand brake cables get to the prop? Here's hoping for an easy fix!



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Post by scimjim » Mon Nov 05, 2018 10:31 am

Run it up on axle stands?

*disclaimer - I would do this but take no responsibility if your car ends up in your neighbours front room :D


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by Oldconn » Mon Nov 05, 2018 3:18 pm

A nail in a tyre???


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Post by spegru » Mon Nov 05, 2018 8:47 pm

Thanks for the disclaimer!
It's up on ramps night now and I can see that the trailing cables could easily have been catching on the prop shaft UJ so here's hoping! I'll have to connect up the hand brake I guess!

Still need those PAS pump pics btw (see earlier in thread)



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Post by spegru » Mon Nov 12, 2018 6:04 pm

Good news. Another trip around the cul de sac today reveals that fixing the hand brake cables has indeed also fixed the CLicking Ticking noise (not to mention the dragging sound). A few other noises but I think that's just the brakes shoes bedding in.
Since it was wet and easy to do I even did a little wheel spin!
It's progressing!



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Post by spegru » Mon Dec 24, 2018 11:12 am

Moving I hope onto the home straight mechanical-wise.
One thing I'd like to do is tighten up the the gear lever mechanism as it knocks on the side of the transmission tunnel due to sideways slop at the lever mechanism.
Is there a way to tighten it all up?

I've read about the selector rod joints and even altering the attachment point on the box side levers to get a quicker shift - and I may do that, but as far as I can see none of that will affect the tunnel knocking because the slop that causes that is within the lever mech itself

Ideas would be appreciated

Merry Christmas



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Post by spegru » Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:10 pm

Looks like am committed to dismantling the gear change mech since I've spent quite while removing it from the car. The whole assembly is off, onto the bench
I am assuming wear in the bushing and maybe even the selector levers themselves
I now just need to remove the pin from the end of the actual lever so that I can dismantle. The pin is currently putting up quite a fight in spite of heating etc. Is it possible that it's threaded even though there is no head to turn. I might end up having to drill it,

While I am at it I'll probably go the whole hog and shorten the side selector lever length to get a quicker shift and replace the actual rods with new items with clevis joints (as shown here http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/~donkenned ... arLink.htm) Pic on thread thread show a surprising ~30% degree of shortening for that.
http://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/~donkenned ... inkage.jpg



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