SE5a Body Off Resto

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Harry Granger
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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Harry Granger » Tue Jan 16, 2018 10:13 pm

After some more advice. I'm waiting on quotes back for the chassis to be shot blasted, welded and potentiallyyyy galvanised...I think it will be worth it in the long run.

However while that's going on I was going to start taking the paint off the body as I know this is quite labour intensive and want to get started asap.The idea being to get some wooden batten with plastic sheets stapled to it to section off the garage from any dust.

The question though...what is the best way to remove the paintwork, i've seen some posts with da sanders, some by hand and some with scrapers. I don't want to damage the gel coat either and want to be careful. All thoughts are appreciated as always!


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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Jan 21, 2018 12:11 pm

It depends on what the state is of the current paint. If reasonable, then D/A is the obvious choice for the larger areas and hand sanding for everywhere else. Try to take it down to remove the first coat of factory applied filler/primer, this is where the microblistering generally starts. Then use Lechler 29107 epoxy primer before doing anything else. Rectify any damage with fillers /Diamond Glaze flatted DRY and then apply more epoxy primer to seal. When happy, apply a couple more coats and block back to 800 dry. Then you can finish as preferred. One of the side benefits of the epoxy primer is that unlike isocyanate primer, it is waterproof, meaning that you can push the body out in the rain for six months if you have to!


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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Harry Granger » Sun Jan 21, 2018 1:15 pm

Amazing thanks for the advice, what grit would you use?


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Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Jan 21, 2018 1:32 pm

Harry Granger wrote:
Sun Jan 21, 2018 1:15 pm
Amazing thanks for the advice, what grit would you use?
Start CAREFULLY with 120 grit, only going to 80 if you really have to. Just be aware that you can do a lot of damage with a D/A if you are not used to it. After all the paint is off and before doing any repair work, clean what is left thoroughly before putting the epoxy primer on. I would also recommend keeping the body somewhere warm for a few weeks after sanding, to ensure it is properly dry. If you can't, then get the epoxy primer on quickly.

Do your repairs and use 120 to 320 grits for smoothing. Final sand should be 320 grit before applying another couple of epoxy coats. Tint the coats differently, so you have a "Warning layer" guide if inexperienced. It may be helpful to tint the final epoxy primer coats to something similar to the final finish colour.


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Post by Harry Granger » Sun Jan 21, 2018 2:06 pm

...and thanks again!! :D


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Post by scimjim » Sun Jan 21, 2018 3:26 pm

be really, really careful on corners, edges and swage lines with a DA Harry - it's easy to round them off and then you end up with different profiles each side (such as the top of the wings) and you have to build it back up and sand again!


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SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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Post by Harry Granger » Sun Jan 21, 2018 3:59 pm

The plan is to section off the garage so will be sorting that first but will keep all this mind! I'll most likely do corners and edges by hand to be on the safe side too :)


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Post by Harry Granger » Sun Jan 21, 2018 7:24 pm

So...decided to brave the snow and cold this afternoon to take a look at what state the diff is in and what the oil is (was) like. Drained it and went slowly at the bolts on the back cover, all were pretty rusted and looked like they'd not been out a good while. All came out however one snapped with about an inch of thread still in the axle despite going as carefully as possible. I tried to pry off the back casing which is now all fairly loose however it seems a little stuck where said bolt is. Annoyeddddd! :oops:

Here's the engine on my new stand...I can't seem to get the carb off at all. Whatever I used to fix it down last time must be strong! Any suggestions...?
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Harry Granger // 1971 SE5a

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Post by b.c.flat hat » Sun Jan 21, 2018 9:42 pm

Previous over- tightening squashes the light alloy carb hole edges into the threads of the studs, there's no elegant engineering fix so careful use of a sideways force on the carb eventually frees up a wriggle of movement which can be improved to complete removal. Don't use a screw driver or other pry bar under the carb flange as this will crack the black plastic insulator! Best o' luck, B C.



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Post by reliant-reviver » Mon Jan 22, 2018 8:13 am

Hefty clout with a rubber mallet. Should give a soft enough contact face not to cause any point loading and hence risk damage, whilst imparting enough force to beak it free from any stiction

If you can whack something free in the correct direction, then in theory you can't actually hit it too hard. I realise this may not be possible with the carb on an Essex given it's location.


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Post by scimjim » Mon Jan 22, 2018 11:34 am

Do NOT hit the carb upward with anything other than your hand. The only place to get upward movement is the air filter securing flange - and that will crack quite easily. Just rocking it will free it eventually.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Harry Granger
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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Harry Granger » Mon Jan 22, 2018 10:13 pm

The last time I took it off was quite easy and did just come free with a bit of rocking/twisting but this time it appears solid! I'll keep going at it! Thanks guys!


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Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Jan 22, 2018 11:32 pm

Harry Granger wrote:
Sun Jan 21, 2018 7:24 pm
I can't seem to get the carb off at all. Whatever I used to fix it down last time must be strong!
I suspect that might be a clue - it's best to assemble the gaskets dry, or with just a smear of grease


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Harry Granger
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Post by Harry Granger » Sat Mar 17, 2018 6:31 pm

Quick update! Been a bit chilly in the garage recently so progress has been slow...bloody weather!

Finally got the carb off. Took off the back of the diff to look at gears and condition, snapped a bolt which came out again easily enough and....took ownership of something lovely and shiny with many thanks to gtcse8 (Mark Wilson)!!
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Harry Granger // 1971 SE5a

Harry Granger
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Post by Harry Granger » Tue Apr 09, 2019 9:56 pm

So...seems like it's been forever but in reality, life and the never ending sanding got in the way! Moving although swiftly anyway now, I'll let the pictures do the talking... **Sorry, for any head tilting**
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Harry Granger // 1971 SE5a

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