SE5a Body Off Resto

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Harry Granger
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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Harry Granger » Thu Jan 11, 2018 12:27 am

Well I finally took the plunge and this is now where I am! Only took 4 hours...which I think is quite good?! :shock:
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Harry Granger // 1971 SE5a

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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Harry Granger » Thu Jan 11, 2018 12:35 am

The core of the chassis seems to be solid just outriggers and other areas that catch the dirt and muck. When replacing areas that would have had body/chassis bolts going into it do people tend to pre-drill the holes or sit the body back on and then drill through the existing hole in the body?
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Harry Granger // 1971 SE5a

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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Stupopt1 » Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:35 am

That takes me back.
you can get all the outriggers , galvanised from QRG, including the 4 small ones that stick out the back.
I don't know what most do, but I'm going to replace the body then drill thru the new bits to make sure it all lines up.


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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Coupe Racing » Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:41 am

Please support the shell at the chassis mount points or it will change shape


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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Harry Granger » Thu Jan 11, 2018 7:41 pm

It's supported in the majority but do need to add a little more


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Post by Datsundrew » Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:37 pm

Great work so far! I'm so glad I took my body off, that way you know you have seen everything properly. I would strongly advise you to think about having the chassis galvanised once it's welded. Didn't cost a fortune, and it's way better protection than paint. I've had my Land Rover 18 years, the first year I welded x member and all outriggers, 12 years later there were holes again, even with regular cleaning, paint and wax. It is a daily, so that doesn't help, but I was very disappointed. I replaced it with a galvanised one that still looks new now.



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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Harry Granger » Thu Jan 11, 2018 11:40 pm

Little bit more done tonight, drive shaft, fuel tank, exhaust pipes, wiring all removed. Whilst doing this I also noticed that the front passenger side shock looks a bit bent...not sure if this could be the spring or the damper?
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Post by superleggo » Fri Jan 12, 2018 12:02 am

Top work. It looks better than mine when I removed the body.

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Post by Harry Granger » Fri Jan 12, 2018 12:36 am

Thanks, steady away! I'm not sure if have the know how for that just yet! :shock:


Harry Granger // 1971 SE5a

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Post by Harry Granger » Sat Jan 13, 2018 8:09 pm

Some more progress last night and today. Engine, box and axle all out. Might get round to doing some more tomorrow! :lol:
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Harry Granger // 1971 SE5a

Harry Granger
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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Harry Granger » Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:15 pm

Another day, another update! 99% of everything that comes off is now off! Seemed to take forever...

There were a couple of mishaps but nothing too serious or hard to fix, one of the front anti-roll bar bolts snapped and the rear bumper support bolts (think its that) are all too rusty and rounded so will have to be cut out. Oh, and will need to cut the bolts for the gearbox mount and have these fixed due to the bolts spinning.

I do have a few questions though if anyone can help... The 'shims' (for lack of knowing the correct name) which behind the upper fulcrum on the front suspension...are there meant to be 1 or two on each side. When removing these the passengers side had 2 but then the drivers one, and then they are quite corroded with half of the actual thickness appearing to fall off. Would these need replacing entirely or be okay cleaned up and refitted?? Hopefully the pictures explain!

Another also! The upper wishbones don't seem to be identical, is that right? This looked the case on both sides, hopefully the pictures explain again!
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Harry Granger // 1971 SE5a

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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Oaksey » Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:52 pm

The shims are to adjust castor and camber to account for chassis variations, so there's no set number - you simply use the number required
Again, the wishbones are supposed to be asymmetrical because of the castor set by the trunnion. Try fitting the arms the other way round and the ball joint will be in the wrong place.


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Post by halfpenny » Sun Jan 14, 2018 7:05 pm

But do carefully make sure the bits are symmetrical. These cars have in many cases been run on an absolute shoestring in the past, with parts replaced singly (and secondhand) when they should have been done in pairs. Among several differences between left and right sides, I had a 12 coil front spring on one side, and a 13 coil spring on the other - not easy to spot, but the car now handles rather less waywardly with a matching pair.



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Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Jan 14, 2018 8:00 pm

halfpenny wrote:
Sun Jan 14, 2018 7:05 pm
But do carefully make sure the bits are symmetrical.
That's true of a lot of things, (like your example of the springs), but not the shims. Those need to be used as Oaksey says, as required to get the correct geometry. :)


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Harry Granger
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SE5a Body Off Resto

Post by Harry Granger » Sun Jan 14, 2018 9:10 pm

Thanks for the advice and tips! Will have to remember it when it goes back together!


Harry Granger // 1971 SE5a

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