Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Fri Jun 30, 2017 2:40 pm

I had a look at my starter motor and coil and I assume this wire circled below is my Eureka bypass wire. It's not yellow, it's a kind of faded mustardy orange colour. It's the one I noticed a few weeks ago had cracked and split insulation, so I wonder if the wire has become brittle and broken through age/exposure to the engine bay heat.

Image

Maybe it's just my imagination but I had a little fiddle with the wire/terminal at each end and so far today on three occasions it has fired up first time when warm/hot. So I am guessing... possibly misguidedly, that this wire above IS my Eureka bypass and I have managed to firm up it's connection/conduction by having a blind fiddle.

I have a question though....

does the Eureka wire run directly as a single wire from the start to the coil?
My wires are all bound up in a bundle so it's impossible to trace.

What I'm wondering is whether I could, if needed, run a fresh wire from the two terminals and therefore 'replace' the Eureka Bypass wire with a new piece of wire running outside of the bundle. Obviously I'd remove the old wire from the terminals if I did this.

What I don't know however is whether this wire runs to a box/relay/capacitor/switch/other in between the two end points, and therefore whether I need to factor that in, rather than simply running a single wire from start to coil.


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by philhoward » Fri Jun 30, 2017 3:15 pm

The bypass wire (that looks like a contender - but not sure which terminal you're highlighting on your RH image) is just a conventional piece of copper wire from the small stud on the starter solenoid to the coil +ve terminal.

Connections on the starter solenoid are usually the big battery feed (black) onto the large 5/16" UNC (I think - 13 or 14mm spanner size) stud , solenoid activation (white with red stripe) to the spade terminal, then the Ballast/Eureka bypass is the smaller (M5?) stud.


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Fri Jun 30, 2017 3:21 pm

Thanks Phil, so in theory I can replace it by running a new wire outside of the bound pack of wires that it disappears into.

For reference I've just gone in a bit closer on the shots...

Image

If by fiddling with it I have managed to improve the connection as appears to be the case so far, then I wont be rushing to try and replace it immediately, but it's be good to know that this is an option if it starts getting hard to start when warm.

Edit: All the wiring on my car is utterly horrible.


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by philhoward » Fri Jun 30, 2017 3:27 pm

I think the one you've pointed to on the solenoid is the actual "start" wire from the ignition switch judging by its thickness; the other one will likely be the bypass. 'm not 100% on whether or not that is the same wire that is pointed to on the coil or not - I'm slightly wondering where the ignition feed (from ignition switch via the tacho) is coming from in the first place?

I assume the black and red wires on the coil are for an electronic ignition?


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Fri Jun 30, 2017 3:38 pm

(And in other news... I just treated myself to half an hour of trying to resurrect the nose badge that came with my car ready to refit it. I am determined to re-fit the old one, but it's in poor condition with lots of bubbles under the chrome surface and various pits and holes in the metal. So I decided the only thing for it would be to sand it flat, fill the pits/pores, and be creative about how I paint it because it wouldn't be a nice shiny chrome any more.

So I sanded it flat and filled the pits a few nights ago, and today I prepped it and sprayed primer... left it to dry... second coat... left to dry.... looked lovely. Then I got my satin black rattle can out and gave it a coat.... left it to dry.... second coat... left it to dry... looked lovely in all satin black. Suitable for my car too.

Chuffed to bits. Looked really nice.

BUT... I had also purchased a silver Halfords touch up pen. I decided I wanted the badge black, but the inline and scimitar icon in silver. So I very carefully used the very thin brush to carefully... very carefully lower silver paint into those areas, taking my time... being very very careful about painting the silver just in the bottoms of the troughs... very careful, very careful that's it, that's lookinDAMMIT a bit's gone up the side of the trough, ruining the line, okay well, I very very carefuOH BLOW, okay very very carefully ARRRRGHHHH... okay so verySOD THIS STUPID SODDING BRUSH ITS GONE EVERYWHERE.

so now it's all sanded back and ready for me to primer and respray black again, next time I get a free hour. And it will stay pure satin black this time.

Image

If there's one thing that makes my eye twitch it's seeing badly re-painted car badges.


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Fri Jun 30, 2017 3:41 pm

philhoward wrote:I think the one you've pointed to on the solenoid is the actual "start" wire from the ignition switch judging by its thickness; the other one will likely be the bypass. 'm not 100% on whether or not that is the same wire that is pointed to on the coil or not - I'm slightly wondering where the ignition feed (from ignition switch via the tacho) is coming from in the first place?
I...erm..... I'll have to get back to you on that.

= )


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AJL Electronics » Fri Jun 30, 2017 4:43 pm

Ever heard of masking? ;-) Either paint the silver first then mask, or mask the lot and cut out for the silver parts with a scalpel.


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Fri Jun 30, 2017 4:53 pm

I spent a very large part of my life cutting film masks with a scalpel and brushing liquid masks, so I am very familiar with it.

However, I don't have any masking film / fluid and I don't really want to buy some just to do a tiny badge. That's where budgets creep ( I should point out that the silver touch up pen was already purchased to touch up the mother-in-law's car a few months back, hence my decision to use that) and where attempts to do quick things in under an hour become shopping trips that take longer than schedules permit.

Also the surface of the badge is not perfectly flat it has an arc, and the outer rim is set lower. It would be too much time to make a perfect mask, plus most masking films have a tendency to lift with aerosol paint... so generally on something small like this I would normally get far better results doing it by hand.

I realise the obvious flaw in that statement, given that it went wrong, but it mainly went wrong due to my hast and laziness in trying to use the Halfords touch up brush, rather than digging out my old pin-striping kit with proper brushes and doing it properly.

As a general rule... if you have the skills to do it by hand it will always give a much better result than trying to cut and secure film masks on something like this. I do have those skills, not-often used these days and... just... not today.

:D


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by scimjim » Fri Jun 30, 2017 8:52 pm

AnotherTim wrote:
philhoward wrote:I think the one you've pointed to on the solenoid is the actual "start" wire from the ignition switch judging by its thickness; the other one will likely be the bypass. 'm not 100% on whether or not that is the same wire that is pointed to on the coil or not - I'm slightly wondering where the ignition feed (from ignition switch via the tacho) is coming from in the first place?
I...erm..... I'll have to get back to you on that.

= )
pull one of the smaller wires off and try starting it - if it turns over, that's the eureka bypass :-)


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Fri Jun 30, 2017 8:55 pm

Cheers Jim. I'll keep it in mind but right now as the problem seems to have gone away I'm going to leave it all alone... like the coward I am.


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by Old and Slow » Fri Jun 30, 2017 10:00 pm

Hi Tim,
IIRC you can get small pots of Humbrol masking paint at Hobbycraft (when not out of stock). Never used it though, so can't comment on its effectiveness.
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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Fri Jun 30, 2017 10:44 pm

Hi Phillip, you're right there are small hobby masking liquids. But in this case I was looking to make it one of my quick and resourceful one hour micro-improvements without going to a shop first to buy more stuff, or waiting for additional stuff to be delivered.

But the thing about painting on a liquid mask is if you can paint the mask on neatly enough, then you can brush the paint on neatly enough in the first place without bothering with the liquid mask. I can do that ... I'd just need to dig out my decent detailing brushes from the loft first, but having seen it with and without the silver infills I actually preferred it without.


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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by Scimher » Sat Jul 01, 2017 3:31 pm

AnotherTim wrote:Cheers Jim. I'll keep it in mind but right now as the problem seems to have gone away I'm going to leave it all alone... like the coward I am.
...I prefer the ethos 'if it ain't broke don't fix it', Tim... :mrgreen:



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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by Old and Slow » Sat Jul 01, 2017 4:25 pm

Hi Tim,
Apparently (according to my son) you use the mask and then use an airbrush to paint the unmasked bits without worrying about overspray.
I think he's like you, he can paint straight lines with just a brush; I can paint wiggly lines all day.
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Re: Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Jul 02, 2017 4:14 pm

Oh yeah if you're airbrushing then masking is essential, but I was only dabbling the silver on with a cheap and nasty brush.

I wanted the silver on the base layer only, in the bottom of the inline and the bottom of the sabre motif... and not up the walls of those indented bits because that's when lines start to look very wobbly and if you paint the walls too the shapes can look odd. So there isn't really anyway of masking the walls of a 1mm groove that would require any less less skill and concentration than just painting it properly in the first place. I hadn't done too bad a job to be honest, but the touch-up pen's brush was too long for the job and paint accumulated and made its way down the shaft and bristles, and then touched the walls in a couple of places when I wasn't paying attention.

Without having any proper kit to hand I made the rash decision to try and wipe those dots off with kitchen roll... thereby smearing them across all my lovely satin black.

Basically I was a bad workman blaming unsuitable tools.

:D


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