Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

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AnotherTim
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Se5a Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 4:50 pm

Day 01 with my new car. Started by giving it a wash down to see what was beneath all the dirt. Not too bad under there. Some hairline crazing in a few small places. Paint job is largely okay from a durability point of view, but lies somewhere between a quick n dirty pro spray and a rattle can special (it's not rattle can).

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So first things first, I was told yesterday the secret to not having a Scimitar on fire is to have the fuel hose correctly clipped to the the carb nozzle. I checked mine out and found a standard jubilee clip, with a not-very-well-trimmed piece of hose. It's also a bit gacky round there, so I'm going to take it off, cut the hose end correctly so it sits butt-against the end of the nozzle, and tighten the clip right up. Is this the best way to ensure I don't end up with the most expensive barbecue on my street? If there's a better clip, or a better way... I'd love to know!

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Next thing that concerns me is (and bare in mind I'm completely new to Scimitars) that there are two rectangular metal plates held in place by two not-very-sturdy bolts about where the front suspension ends. On mine, the one on the left is distinctly bowed. The other looks less so but it buried beneath electrical spaghetti and a few other oddsn&sods. Can anybody tell me what this is about, and am I right to be concnered?...

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Immediate jobs to do are:

1. Get some new water-stopping trim for the two doors. Wondering where the best place to get those might be...

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(Eventually a thorough rebuild of door interiors will happen too, but for now they're going to stay as they are. I do need to re-fit the glass to the galleys that move them though, as they go up, but they come out going down and have to be pushed down by hand)

I also need to figure out a way to refix a slice of bodywork cut out to access the sills by the previous owner, but in a way that both looks discreet and also stops the piece falling off while I'm on the move... because if I lose the piece (which came with the car) I will never be able to replace it...

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Any advice on how to fix this easily and cheaply.. gratefully appreciated. Seller suggested Araldite. I'm contemplating Araldite but also a small metal bracket at either end to prevent it getting rattled off the car and lost.

Another immediate job is to recommission this hinge from the rear hatch. I have NO idea what additional bits might be needed... particularly on the car, because I don't want to open the hatch until I'm ready to tackle the job. Strikes me that opening a hatch on only one hinge could put a lot of twisty strain on the remaining hinge. If anyone can advise me about what I might need to do to the car up inside the bodywork I'd be grateful. Seller suggested I need to fit a new cotter pin and/or a bar of some description.

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Last edited by AnotherTim on Mon Nov 28, 2016 10:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.


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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 4:55 pm

A few more pics from today. One thing that's perplexing is that the front wheels, when turned in, rub against the wing. I'm hoping this may be a simple issue of having the wrong profile tyres on the front, but I fear it might not be that simple. I think the front tyres would have to be significantly lower profile to miss, changing the rake of the car dramatically...

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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 4:56 pm

Planning on making a front gril to cover these home cut vent holes. Either vertical chrome spoke bars, or a black mesh inside a black holding frame...

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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 4:58 pm

Sunroof doesn't quite follow the profile of the roof curve, and is proud either side. Amaxingly though, it doesn't seem to leak (yet)

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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:01 pm

Windscreen rubber is utter gack. Corner curves are like witches fingernails, and I know why it rained on my leg inside the car on the journey home. It has an enormous hole right the way through on the driver's side. This will have to be replaced in time, but on an old Bedford van I had which had a similarly bad windscreen rubber, I managed to fill it and recoat it with a special rubber compound from my local chandlers and it looked good and lasted another three years... so for now, I'm going to perform the same operation on this, and pack the big hole from the inside with Sugru or similar, before rubber coating it outside too..

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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:03 pm

The chrome-work (what's eft of it) in general isn't three bad. I have no rear bumper at all so will be looking for a neat solution to that. The fronts will either need rechroming, painting a tactical colour (might look good in black if I can match to the car) or replacing with new ones if such things are available...

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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AJL Electronics » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:05 pm

1. Get that fuel pipe off right now! It is a fire just waiting to happen. Replace all your fuel lines with either genuine Gates R9+ or Cohline Biohose.

2. The missing piece of fibreglass should be bonded back in using conventional techniques. Small brackets with self tappers to locate it, then fibreglass mat on the back, before final refinishing.

3. The window weatherstrip is a standard part. You will find them in my webshop, together with the Biohose you need.


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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:07 pm

Interior is way off respectable, but live-able for the time being. After three years in my last car it feels positively luxurious in there. Need to figure out what lurks behind a load of silver, stick on 'rattle trap' covering and see how I might rebricate or fit a replacement vertical piece to the centre console. Bac has no seats, but probably never will. I don't think I'd want to stick my kids in the back of this car.

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A Rover P5b owning friend of mine suggested that red strap might be from a P4. The door mirrors look to me like early Cortina, and the seller said as much. I'll keep them on though. I like em. Strap will have to go.

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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:09 pm

All in all, there's a lot to do, but for what she cost me, she's a fairly handsome, if somewhat rough old bird to be flouncing about in and fixing up slowly.

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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:13 pm

AJL Electronics wrote:1. Get that fuel pipe off right now! It is a fire just waiting to happen. Replace all your fuel lines with either genuine Gates R9+ or Cohline Biohose.

2. The missing piece of fibreglass should be bonded back in using conventional techniques. Small brackets with self tappers to locate it, then fibreglass mat on the back, before final refinishing.

3. The window weatherstrip is a standard part. You will find them in my webshop, together with the Biohose you need.

Okay thanks. I'll check out your webshop. In terms of the actual clip though, is there a specific, particular clip that is advisable to use or just one of these fellas that's already on there?

I'll also get those weather strips fairly pronto. I was horrified to watch pints of washing water cascading down inside the doors today. I think the doors may end up being my first thing to tackle. If I'm fitting the weather strips, I may as well get the glass out and fitted correctly, see if I have aquariums in the base of each door, and while I'm at it, do some cosmetic work ont he door cards to make them more presentable for now.


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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by scimjim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:16 pm

It's not the clip on the fuel inlet that comes adrift, it's the brass union that it's attached to (different expansion rate between that and the alloy carb). The factory fit was a mills pin - clean off the carb around the inlet and see if you can see the head of the pin (obviously very small).

And as Andy says, get rid of that pipe quick!


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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:18 pm

Okay thanks... is there a thread on the forum that already details this that could get me up to speed on what I should be looking for and also what I can do to remedy it?

I am completely new to this so any guidance at this point appreciated!


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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by scimjim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:18 pm

The rectangular plates are load spreaders - the two bolts are holding the bodyshell to the suspension towers - you don't want any movement there obviously.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by scimjim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:21 pm

The hatch hinges on a steel bar that goes the full width of the hatch, you can only see the outer few inches as its bonded into the roof. If it siezed and shears off you're looking at an awkward fix.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

AnotherTim
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Re: SE5a FKV100L - Rolling rejuvenation project

Post by AnotherTim » Sun Sep 18, 2016 5:22 pm

scimjim wrote:The rectangular plates are load spreaders - the two bolts are holding the bodyshell to the suspension towers - you don't want any movement there obviously.
Is it common to find they've bowed? and what's the best course of action to take? If there's a thread about it I can check it out there. Don't want to burden everyone with noob problems!


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