Manny's SS1 1600

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Manny's SS1 1600

Post by philhoward » Mon Nov 25, 2019 1:40 pm

Your testing theory is correct - you should get a reading in the region of 100-2000 Ohm area depending if it’s hot or cold between the spade and earth. Exact figures isn’t critical but around 100 ohms for hot, 2-3000 for cold, plus or minus 20%. It’s not a calibrated instrument :lol:


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Post by manny » Mon Nov 25, 2019 1:43 pm

Ah ...thank you Mr Howard and Mr King..



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Post by manny » Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:09 pm

Good day all,

well, before setting of to work on Ti, about three miles from work and as i finish at 11:30, thought i would check the temp gauge sender wire.
All was attached and looking okay, i disconnected and gave it a quick rub with some p100 sand paper and reconnected...no difference , my gauge swept to hot straight away....
Proceeded about 2miles..and the car died, i coasted to the side and noted no activity on the tacho whist it tried to start...humm popped the bonnet.
Checked\wiggled the wires on the coil and loom nearby.....car started and the temp gauge worked.. :?
I wish wiggling wires not part of a temp fix, will check the loom\wires at the weekend...

Ta

Manny



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Manny's SS1 1600

Post by philhoward » Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:48 pm

Sounds like the standard issue 1800TI fried loom syndrome...


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Manny's SS1 1600

Post by manny » Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:55 pm

philhoward wrote:
Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:48 pm
Sounds like the standard issue 1800TI fried loom syndrome...
this was the 1600..apologies i could have been clearer...i was setting of to work on the Ti garaged three miles away....not sure that's any better. :)



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Post by efi_sprintgte » Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:59 pm

I had to read it twice :lol:

Sounds like you have some wiring to do...


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Post by philhoward » Fri Dec 06, 2019 5:00 pm

Still fried wiring syndrome..


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Post by reliant-reviver » Sat Dec 07, 2019 8:19 am

Check the back of the clock set for damaged sections on any parts of the laminated circuit. Rev counter INOP is usually because there's a crack in the section running around the corner to the back of the dial.

Could well explain your coolant temp gauge issue also.


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Post by manny » Mon Mar 16, 2020 8:39 am

Good day all

yesterday i thought i would carry out an oil change ( first since i purchased the car !)..anyway i used some engine flushing agent and let the car idle for 20 mins.
When i checked the dip stick, i noted some sludge on the end of the stick..sure this won't be surprise to any CVH owners.
I guess the best option would be to drain the oil, drop the sump and clean up.

As the weather is warming up and i can self isolate in the garage, i may as well..
Remove the head and change the cam\followers ( with a standard)..on the premise that sludge may well be in the oil ways too?

Ta

Manny



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Post by scimjim » Mon Mar 16, 2020 9:45 am

Sludge generally only accumulates in the sump. The breather lines can get clogged with dried oil though.


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Post by efi_sprintgte » Mon Mar 16, 2020 10:08 am

Personally I would probably just do another oil and filter change in 500 miles or so.


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Post by philhoward » Mon Mar 16, 2020 10:15 am

Engine flush can be a bit aggressive, depending on the state of the internals. It could have dislodged muck from the head? If a CVH runs out of oil at the top end you tend to hear it.


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Post by manny » Mon Mar 16, 2020 10:58 am

efi_sprintgte wrote:
Mon Mar 16, 2020 10:08 am
Personally I would probably just do another oil and filter change in 500 miles or so.
Would you suggest just oil without the flush?



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Post by efi_sprintgte » Mon Mar 16, 2020 11:18 am

manny wrote:
Mon Mar 16, 2020 10:58 am
Would you suggest just oil without the flush?
There is a lot of conflicting information but I don’t like using them.

I have (post a very mayonnaise head gasket failure) poured a few litres diesel into the oil filler and then drained from the sump, didn’t run the engine.. just used it to “wash” the sump out.

Also as Jim says give the breather pipes a good cleaning.


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Post by manny » Wed Mar 25, 2020 8:52 pm

Good day all

not strictly work regarding the SS1 ...but inspired by it....i modded the headlamp flash on my Tr7 to mimic it..
without the mod the operation was as follows with 'no' lights or 'side' lights on

1.flash stalk 'on' - beams come on whilst the pods were down
2.Pods rise with the beams on!
3.you would then actually 'flash' the beams!
4.once flash stalk was 'off' the pods would stay up for a few seconds with no beams

Tr7 flash modded to SS1 operation

silly..in my opinion..the SS1 does it the correct way :)

Ta

Manny



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