Manny's SS1 1600

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manny
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Manny's SS1 1600

Post by manny » Wed Aug 09, 2017 5:50 pm

Work done to date...the bushes were chewed up...the bush clamps were treated to some vinegar rust removal over 3 days- this was enough to 'smooth out' the the C sections clamping the bushes..

Steering column top bearing slightly worn (2.1.2c)--?
Oil leak ()--- suspect the front crank oil seal
Nearside Play in steering rack inner joint(s) ---rebuild?
Offside Play in steering rack inner joint(s) --- as above
Nearside Rear Nail in tyre ()---hum difficult one....
Nearside Rear Inner Anti-roll bar rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)-- 16mm Poly
Offside Rear Inner Anti-roll bar rubber bush deteriorated but not resulting in excessive movement (2.4.G.2)--as above
Nearside Front tyre cracking--



i am going to ask my MOT father to get the rack sorted- as he did for the GTE some moons ago....still go to fix that electric driver window.

Ta

Manny


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Post by scimjim » Wed Aug 09, 2017 7:05 pm

There is no top bearing in the steering column, there's a bush between inner & outer but the column is supported by two rubber blocks mounted to a bracket from the A post cross-tube.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Manny's SS1 1600

Post by manny » Wed Aug 09, 2017 7:25 pm

scimjim wrote:
Wed Aug 09, 2017 7:05 pm
There is no top bearing in the steering column, there's a bush between inner & outer but the column is supported by two rubber blocks mounted to a bracket from the A post cross-tube.
Thank you Jim..that helps...as there is no reference in the SS1 service manual ( is there a reference guide in progress..?)- as others have found out too....i will have a peek at the weekend

Ta

Manny


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Post by scimjim » Wed Aug 09, 2017 7:29 pm

Unfortunately Reliant never finished producing the small sports workshop manual - most of the missing info is on here now though.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Manny's SS1 1600

Post by manny » Thu Aug 10, 2017 8:25 pm

as it was lovely today- thought I would investigate the jammed electric window ( driver side)

the mechanism

Image

despite looking for the bent teeth posted by Peter- i could not see any...and i could wind the motor fully of the teeth without any stalling\rubbing of teeth.. :?

Image

i noted a scribe -

Image

i did note the mechanism jammed when off the car - but as hard as i looked could not see any Bob Marley...

so...to prevent the window raising too high..i inserted some plastic rectangles in the top of the frame...the window now stops about 5 mm from the very top :

Image

these remain in place with the rubber ( broken) frame stop..

that may be enough to prevent the mechanism jamming..

Ta

Manny


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Post by Alan SS1 » Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:28 pm

if door cover is still off try putting a mechanical stop on the door. I drilled a hole in GRP and put a M6 bolt though with a bit of bent 16 gauge that stops the arm from full travel, saves strain on the 'frail' 1/4 light frames . .. . . . :wink:


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Post by manny » Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:33 pm

Alan SS1 wrote:
Fri Aug 11, 2017 6:28 pm
if door cover is still off try putting a mechanical stop on the door. I drilled a hole in GRP and put a M6 bolt though with a bit of bent 16 gauge that stops the arm from full travel, saves strain on the 'frail' 1/4 light frames . .. . . . :wink:

oh yes..i think you posted that before...how did you gauge the stopping point? ..raise the window to what you thought was acceptable and drill?


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Post by Alan SS1 » Mon Aug 14, 2017 12:43 pm

yep fairly simple wound up to nearly the top and then drill, you can always file the hole a bit upwards if window doesn't go quite far enough :-)


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Post by manny » Mon Aug 14, 2017 1:37 pm

Alan SS1 wrote:
Mon Aug 14, 2017 12:43 pm
yep fairly simple wound up to nearly the top and then drill, you can always file the hole a bit upwards if window doesn't go quite far enough :-)
if the window does not jam over the next few months - i will put that in place- as it seems more sensible and hidden!

Ta

Manny


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Post by manny » Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:34 pm

Good day all,

today's mission was to install the hardtop - so with my 13 year old daughter giving me a hand - we installed it between the odd showers: but the alignment is worrying me - there is no way i can close the passenger door without lowering the window first...

Passenger:
Image

Drivers:
Image

I have to find the two rear brackets- they are somewhere in the garage..

I left the soft top in place - but folded following the correct sequence for once and removed the rear rail

Ta

Manny
Last edited by manny on Sat Sep 09, 2017 4:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Post by peter freeman » Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:42 pm

Perhaps the door needs to go forward a bit



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Post by manny » Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:46 pm

peter freeman wrote:
Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:42 pm
Perhaps the door needs to go forward a bit
Hi Peter..i know the hinges need re-pinning - but i assume you mean both hinges adjusted forward..will re-check and update you..

Ta

Manny

edit: the driver door glass does not fully sit on the seal either...

Image

the hardtop was given to me...so no idea if there are variations between early and late ...what i have got ? what picture would help identity the top?
Last edited by manny on Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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Post by peter freeman » Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:48 pm

Check the gap front and rear of the door to see if it is central.



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Post by scimjim » Sat Sep 09, 2017 2:07 pm

manny wrote:
Sat Sep 09, 2017 1:34 pm
Image
This pic suggests it's an SS1 top - the front edge profile matches the A post/screen surround at the top corner.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Post by reliant-reviver » Thu Sep 14, 2017 11:05 am

Looks like the window regulator back runner channel needs swinging up or down. The position of This dictates the angle the drop glass sits at.

Loosen the rear M5 (8mm head) bolt and you will find it is a slotted hole in the door skin allowing the runner channel to be pivoted. Have a play and it should all become clear.


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