Manny's SS1 1800 Ti

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Post by Corky » Tue Apr 03, 2018 9:02 am

I’ve used helicoils for this purpose, along with exhaust manifold studs and rocker bolts. A selection here search.php?keywords=Helicoil+&t=17113&sf=msgonly

If you scroll down the photos of the red engine, you can just about make out a helicoil in the turbo to exhaust manifold flange.


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Post by manny » Wed Apr 04, 2018 7:34 am

Good day all

and thanks for the options - i guess Helicoil is the way forward and doing all four would make sense now - for the studs would using M8 SS bolts suffice, cut to a suitable length with spring washers - or are these exhausts studs a different specification ?

Ta

Manny


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Post by Corky » Wed Apr 04, 2018 7:46 am

Have a look on eBay. You can buy them in the correct material from quite a few of the specialist sellers (Conceptua are usually very good). Search “turbo studs” or something similar, and buy tri-lock nuts if you can find them as they generally don’t come undone.


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Manny's SS1 1800 Ti

Post by philhoward » Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:04 am

Exhaust/turbo studs generally have a plain shank in the middle - for the mating part to sit (and locate to a degree) onto. Also generally made from better material to boot.


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Post by manny » Thu Apr 26, 2018 9:59 pm

Good day all,

well i handed my manifold to my MOT garage friend and did say i would like the studs removed and holes Helicoiled- 'we will sort something out....'
...

Image

Drilled deeper and re-tapped...oh well!

They dropped it off my my wife's workplace and did not charge me .... - i sometimes do wonder if too friendly with a single garage is not always a good thing!!

Ta

Manny


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Post by Corky » Fri Apr 27, 2018 12:18 pm

Should be ok if you can widen the holes in the turbo. You may find it difficult to get a nut onto the back studs though. So a thin wall nut or two may be required.


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Post by manny » Fri Apr 27, 2018 8:17 pm

Corky wrote:
Fri Apr 27, 2018 12:18 pm
Should be ok if you can widen the holes in the turbo. You may find it difficult to get a nut onto the back studs though. So a thin wall nut or two may be required.
the (replaced) stud is the same size...it was just a tad longer - so all should fit together without widening the holes? ...on Sunday ..hopefully

Ta

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Post by manny » Sun Apr 29, 2018 3:05 pm

Good day all,

one Ti air box..good as old..to my standard anyway!

ImageImage

just got to lightly sand and then spray.

Ta

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Post by manny » Sun Jul 08, 2018 5:04 pm

Good day,

some progress today - been a while- spent three hours putting the turbo\manifold together..

Image

air filter housing in place as well..

i notice the bottom cooling pipes near the radiators looked quite rusty - so the rad and pipes will be coming out next for inspection

Ta

Manny


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Post by manny » Sun Sep 30, 2018 2:55 pm

Good day,

thought i would remove the radiator today - as my on my last visit i noticed some leaks...
as i suspected..
Image
during removal..the wheel strap mount sheared..
Image
Water pipe..
Image

i am sure none of this is surprising...but how best to tackle the bottom radiator mounting..i am best to remove the front headlamp panel first ...

Ta

Manny


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Post by Alan SS1 » Sun Sep 30, 2018 3:11 pm

manny wrote:
Sun Sep 30, 2018 2:55 pm
Good day,

thought i would remove the radiator today - as my on my last visit i noticed some leaks...
as i suspected..

i am sure none of this is surprising...but how best to tackle the bottom radiator mounting..i am best to remove the front headlamp panel first ...

Ta

Manny
I just binned the whole bottom section and made a new one from 1" angle, two short horizontal flat sections for the radiator bottom mount and a wider piece for the spare wheel, a pair of vertical flat bars picked up the existing holes in the vertical sections of front armature assembly; possibly deemed 'agricultural' :shock:
but at least that way there are no water traps!! :lol:


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Post by scimjim » Sun Sep 30, 2018 3:50 pm

Depends how bad it is and how good your welding is? They’re simple folded section, so easily repairable - but there comes a point where it’s just not worth your time and effort. I have decent s/h replacements but they’re big and heavy and I don’t have time to be sorting and waiting in for couriers.


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Post by manny » Sun Sep 30, 2018 4:29 pm

Thanks..

as i had limited space\visibility- is the bottom mount welded to the side metal work or a bolted in?

Ta

Manny


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Post by scimjim » Sun Sep 30, 2018 4:54 pm

Welded - the wing mounting bars, spare wheel strap, headlight motor brackets, cooling fan bar, towing eye and GRP rad duct are all then bolted on.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Sep 30, 2018 11:08 pm

manny wrote:
Sun Sep 30, 2018 2:55 pm
but how best to tackle the bottom radiator mounting..i am best to remove the front headlamp panel first ...
I've found having an easily removable headlight panel makes access for work on the radiator and pipework much easier. See this post (note: this obviously a 1600, but I don't think the principles vary much)


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