SE5a YTY V8 project

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Tinker man
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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Thu Nov 24, 2016 11:29 am

quick update (for my own benefit and log if nothing else)

... once again a slow month but things moving along as the winter nights start to leap towards us and there is no daylight to do jobs outside at home.

firstly the engine "refresh" is well underway and the rebuild is now getting close to completion. new mains, big ends, fresh rings, cam, lifters, heads skimmed, seals and gaskets etc. heads stripped valves cleaned etc. block professionally cleaned and honed. coat of paint and good to go. going to use composite gaskets instead of tin.

managed a couple of bargains (well i think so). Offenhauser dual plane inlet manifold that needed blasting and painting (couple of snapped bolts in thermostat housing now sorted) and a Edelbrock 1404 carb from a TR7 3.5. both snaffled for less than £250. £750 or so new. that means i have my existing Carter AFB and homemade manifold for my other rebuilt 3.5. happy days.

also taken the opportunity at work to start to remove the paint... i am no paint expert and was expecting a lot of sanding to remove what i think/thought was the original paint. using an Acetone type liquid the blue paint and grey primer scrapped off pretty easily revealing a very nice white layer below. i assume this is an epoxy sealant/primer/filler of some sort?? is this factory standard or would it be work carried out in a previous refurb do you think? open to ideas. in places the gel coat can be seen on the high spots. tried to show what i mean in the pictures. the finish is exceptionally good i think. no cracks to talk of at all.

my plan is to get all the blue and undercoat off, finish the cutting and remodeling then apply an epoxy coat or two to this. probably then leave alone until more work has been done before applying filler primer and top coat. does that make sense? do i need to do another epoxy coat after sanding back filler primer stage?? i know there are lots of theories on painting and i dont expect a top notch finish, but hopefully something presentable. anyway pictures below and paint advice readily taken.... its still going to be Orange and Black.
body prep 001.jpg
first side almost done
body prep 001.jpg (106.45 KiB) Viewed 2354 times
body prep 003.jpg
roof
body prep 003.jpg (66.5 KiB) Viewed 2354 times
body prep 002.jpg
closer view front wing
body prep 002.jpg (121.42 KiB) Viewed 2354 times
cheers for now, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by nickm » Thu Nov 24, 2016 1:45 pm

I am no expert but I would be tempted to just use high build epoxy which you can
topcoat directly.I don't think there is any need for any other type of high build primer.



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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by plastic orange » Thu Nov 24, 2016 7:57 pm

Looking good Ian,

Pete



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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by DarrylWebb » Thu Dec 01, 2016 8:25 pm

I've not checked in here for some time, but you're cracking on at a pace.

If you're thinking of removing the rear crossmember bumps, here's some food for thought : viewtopic.php?f=20&t=10951&start=405 from 2/3 down the page.


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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Mon Dec 05, 2016 9:27 am

thanks for the link Darryl, i will certainly bear it in mind when the cutter comes out.. always good to have this sort of info.

nickm thanks for your input. having read a few more bits and pieces i think that you mat well be right. high build epoxy seems the way forward before some paint. still someway down the track to that point. :shock:

i dont have any really relevant news to the build, but feel people are short changed without any pictures so here is couple of the cleaned up Ebay carb and block progress to date
edelbrock 1.jpg
cleaned up and ready for action
edelbrock 1.jpg (165.14 KiB) Viewed 2139 times
edelbrock 2.jpg
ready to guzzle buckets of unleaded
edelbrock 2.jpg (156 KiB) Viewed 2139 times
block001.jpg
awaiting inlet manifold, carb and distributor amongst other bits
block001.jpg (160.14 KiB) Viewed 2139 times
cheers for now, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by plastic orange » Sun Dec 11, 2016 6:24 pm

I skimmed the heads 25thou when I fitted composite gaskets to restore compression and keep lifter pre load the same. I'm sure it won't matter as there are big tolerances allowed, but if you get lifter noise, you may (very unlikely) have to re visit. Pack oil pump with vaseline and prime pump via dizzy drive using a drill and suitable attachment. Only use 20/50 weight oil.

Pete



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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Sun Dec 11, 2016 6:35 pm

Cheers Pete

Heads were skimmed when I cleaned them up so hoping all will be ok. Good tip for oil pump. 20/50 it is then.

Made a tool for the drill to poke down the dizzy hole come the glorious day. :hurrah: :hurrah:

Thanks as always, ian


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Sun Jan 01, 2017 5:08 pm

well, Happy New Year all...

not as much done as i would have liked over the festive period but the motor is now looking more complete. dizzy, carb, inlet manifold, air cleaner and plug leads all now on. not a great picture but you get the idea.
engine xmas 2016 002.jpg
more or less complete
engine xmas 2016 002.jpg (166.05 KiB) Viewed 1960 times

ZF autobox sump removed to change the filter. all very nice and clean in there i was pleased to see. box and bell housing were also cleaned up and a splash on matt black added. i needed to get a different filter as the LDV and the RR P38 ones have differing length oil pick ups, but the one for the shallow sump off the BMW E30 gearbox has no pickup pipe at all.... so i had to source another as i had got the one for the RR. so if anyone has a need for a ZF4HP22 gearbox filter that fits a RR P38 i have one for just postage.
gearbox internals.jpg
very clean internals
gearbox internals.jpg (145.28 KiB) Viewed 1960 times
as an aside, i like the fasteners for the sump. much better than the engine sump bolts. i dont have much experience of many car makes etc but the few i have worked on all have the direct bolt arrangement and all have a similar issue with distortion of either the sump or squashing gaskets if not torqued correctly. of course doing everything by the book would make sure the seals were good, but i just liked these. they act more like a clamp and dont seem to point load (if that is the right phrase) as much as the bolt type,,, just wondered if anyone had come across these as a fitment on an engine sump, or could say why they arent used on engine sumps? maybe i havent explained it very well, but hopefully you get the idea...
gearbox sump 2.jpg
sump clamps
gearbox sump 2.jpg (206.01 KiB) Viewed 1960 times
cheers, Ian


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:13 am

Hi All,

some chassis progress at last. can i please ask if those more experienced can see any glaring errors in my assembly that they let me know whilst i can relatively easily rectify? thanks very much in advance.

its all loosely bolted together, no split pins etc and i know the diff oil plug is wrong... (cant find my original one? lost in one of the many boxes of parts) but looking at lots of pictures and diagrams on here (thanks) and parts lists etc, i think i have things something like right.. please please please let me know if not. i would rather know now that later on when things are harder to reach.

anyway the front first!
front suspension 4.jpg
front suspension 4.jpg (131.79 KiB) Viewed 1829 times
front suspension3.jpg
front suspension3.jpg (114.27 KiB) Viewed 1829 times
front suspension5.jpg
front suspension5.jpg (129.44 KiB) Viewed 1829 times

rear to follow.....


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:16 am

and the rear end.....
rear suspension1.jpg
rear suspension1.jpg (134.52 KiB) Viewed 1827 times
rear suspension2.jpg
rear suspension2.jpg (150.59 KiB) Viewed 1827 times
rear suspension3.jpg
rear suspension3.jpg (153.17 KiB) Viewed 1827 times
thats all for now...

thanks for looking, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Mon Jan 30, 2017 11:22 pm

Found my first mistake myself. Rear back plates wrong sides and wrong orientation... now corrected. :oops:


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by ronnie » Mon Jan 30, 2017 11:38 pm

Lot of effort going on in this one
Looking gooood Ian

You mentioned "its all loosely bolted together"
but can you tell me if there will be a thread or two sticking out of the nyloc nuts on the top ball joint bolts once all tightened ? any shims needed?



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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Jan 30, 2017 11:47 pm

Another question re the "its all loosely bolted together" point: Do you have a system to ensure that all the loose bolts are done up before you try to drive it? A little dab of paint on each one when it's done, is quite a good way to keep track, and ensure nothing gets missed.


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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Dennis Nicholas » Tue Jan 31, 2017 1:22 am

Tinker man wrote:Cheers Pete

Good tip for oil pump. 20/50 it is then.

Thanks as always, ian
BUT BUT as the late Alan Dean used to say "oil technology has moved on since the days our cars were built......20/50 is really only good for clapped out lawn mowers" :w :shock:


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Re: SE5a YTY V8 project

Post by Tinker man » Tue Jan 31, 2017 9:29 am

good points raised Gents.

Roger, i take that on board as it is easy to forget, so i will use a white paint marker pen.

Ronnie, i ordered the bolts specifically for those top ball joints from QRG (GW didnt have any) and they are indeed shorter than the originals. in fact the two old ones were different lengths front and back, but the replacements both the same. once fastened they are still a bit short and i think you are right and i need to replace with something a little longer.

Dennis, :w indeed.... oil is a very touchy and subjective discussion. i have looked on the RV8 sites and am still no wiser. i know Plastic Orange (Pete), through the Forum, and he has built some rather nice vehicles using RV8 engines and given me excellent tips in the past. i was therefore taking his advice gained from experience.. but as with all things with a personal choice involved thoughts differ! :D

right... marker pen ordered, longer bolts to be sourced and time to work out the assembly of the back brakes. why oh why didnt i take more photo's of how the cylinders and adjusters were fastened??? :roll:

cheers, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

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