The Racy Red Bakery Truck.

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Post by scimjim » Fri May 18, 2018 6:51 pm

Wow, that’s some wear!


Jim King

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Post by b.c.flat hat » Fri May 18, 2018 6:57 pm

This is why I don't like them without grease nipples.
That's the gearbox end and its ripped the g/box mount to bits, t'other end seems smooth as a Zephurs f@rt but I'll do both ends.



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Post by BigBobPilot » Fri May 18, 2018 6:59 pm

If you are stuck for a clutch alignment tool in the future, you can use a piece of dowl (valve grinding sticks work) or a long bolt that will pass through the clutch plate in to the spigot bearing. Choose something that is just undersize from the spigot bearing, then wrap electrical tape around the end, until it's a snug fit in the spigot bearing. Mark the position of the centre of the friction plate & wrap electrical tape around there too, until it's a snug fit in there. You just need to ensure the tape is wrinkle free & it all works, I've done more than 1 clutch that way and never had a problen with alignment.


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Post by b.c.flat hat » Fri May 18, 2018 7:05 pm

Yep, good call Ben, only I couldn't find the bleddy stick either!



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Post by b.c.flat hat » Tue May 22, 2018 10:37 pm

Brilliant service from QRG as usual, g/box mount and both u/js done (with grease nipples!), putting all the rest back together took about five times as long!



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Post by b.c.flat hat » Sat Aug 25, 2018 8:09 pm

It's been a bummer year what with 'orspital an' all so no time for attacking the track and though I'm healthy agin, it's too late for anything this season. The RRBT is our daily and has been reliable until Tuesday when it developed a "big end" rattle for a moment then went normal. Oil pressure stayed normal as did performance so we cruised home.
Stripped the air cleaner and carb off to reveal the problem. The W screwed to the insulator had come loose, two fasteners were there in their way oversized holes but the third had done a runner!
QRG did their usual super service and a good used one, plus some bits for the coupe, arrived next day. I think the cutouts at the ends of the gasket allowed it to stampede through the cylinder and out the exhaust. I've fitted one without cutouts to prevent that means of escape.
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Post by Roger Pennington » Sun Aug 26, 2018 2:59 pm

Just thinking out loud, how necessary are the little screws, in reality? The W-plate itself is made of 1mm steel, it's very hard to imagine any scenario in which it breaks free and disintegrates into small enough pieces to actually fit down the inlet tracts? Or are the screws simply there in order to make it easier to assemble in mass production?

This is just a thought, not something I've actually tried, but it seems worth posing the question.


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Post by mn757 » Sun Aug 26, 2018 3:23 pm

My SE6 ate one of the screws about ten years ago. I knew nothing of it until the thottle started sticking at low openings and when I took the carb off for checking it was clear the W plate had been moving around, and in doing so had machined a grove in the bottom of the carb. This then created a lip that interfered with the throttle butterflies, rendering the carb scrap


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Post by BigBobPilot » Sun Aug 26, 2018 9:31 pm

Yeah, it would rattle around without the screws, wearing everything it touches.


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car in build
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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Post by b.c.flat hat » Sun Aug 26, 2018 10:42 pm

Coincidentally the only time we've had to cancel a trip in the Scim was due to the same defect. We were going darn souff when, at the approach to the Humber bridge, it started to run really roughly. We about turned back to Pickering and it got us home. That time one screw came out some days or weeks before which allowed one leg of the W to flex every inlet stroke until it fatigued off and lodged the middle inlet valve open!
The screws look like no. 6 x about 5mm csk self tappers so really small. The plastic used for the insulator seems very hard, brittle stuff that cracks too easily to re-drill oversize. I hope the expensive re-manufactured new ones are better in that respect.



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Post by BigBobPilot » Sun Aug 26, 2018 10:47 pm

How about drilling the plastic right through, fit an engineering csk screw, with a counterbore for a nut on the other side, all lock tighted in place?
Last edited by BigBobPilot on Sun Aug 26, 2018 11:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.


Ben

SS1 CA18DET race car in build
Latest owner of V6 coupe SRE 353G
SSSC Champion 2009, driving "Big Bob"
CSCC "Swinging 60s" race series winner in 2011, 2014 & 2015 (Group 2) sharing a Marcos with Iain Daniels

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Post by b.c.flat hat » Sun Aug 26, 2018 11:20 pm

I've tried carefully drilling the broken vac. pipe to fit a copper stub but the thing grabbed and shattered. It might be successful in an engineering drill with sensitive feed.



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Post by b.c.flat hat » Fri Oct 12, 2018 6:43 pm

It has lately developed an exhaust blow so did a mahoosive shunt to get it on the lift, took both middle boxes off as they had damage from street obstructions, new ones fitted which lessened the blow but it's either coming from the off side tubular headers welded joint or the cyl. head gaskets, so another dry day shunt is planned.



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Post by Oldconn » Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:40 pm

I found those middle boxes were a perishing pain in the neck! Best thing I ever did was take them off and scrap them! There are lots of aftermarket subsitutes to choose from, -or, if you don't mind a rorty exhaust note, leave them out and put straight pipes in place. Extra benefit - your engine will run cooler, especially if it's a 6 or 6A.


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Post by b.c.flat hat » Mon Oct 15, 2018 6:37 pm

What I should have done!!!!!!!!!

Back in August it "swallowed" a screw from the carb insulator. I thought it had travelled right through to the exhaust but all the time the little bleeder had lodged in the inlet manifold out of sight and beyond my magnet prodding tool. Well that's what I felt like (a right tool) when it repeated it's "big-end death rattle" coming back from a local shopping trip, just a few seconds then normal. Atrocious weather prevented a shunt to get it in the man cave but today is dry so I tackled it outside. I took a chance that as the missing screw was from the offside I removed that side cyl. head and was releaved to find just a few minor marks on the head and piston.
I may have found the cause of the exhaust blow as the washers under the header bolts had corroded, releasing the pressure on the gaskets so that's a bonus!
While cleaning the head I found excessive wear in the inlet valve stem guides so I'll take t'other head off too. In the mean time I'm looking for an engine machining shop to repair them.
Should have done it in August!



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