Scimba - Just add fuel

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Post by philhoward » Sun Aug 06, 2017 8:25 am

As it's a 5a, why not run a new feed straight from the tachometer, hence bypassing the Eureka wire and getting your 12v that way? I think you need a male bullet connector for the tacho end, then that should give you the full 12V and hopefully still a working tacho.


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Post by Crowther » Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:47 pm

I wouldn't mind bypassing the ballast altogether. Would the dash need to come off though?


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Post by philhoward » Sun Aug 06, 2017 2:09 pm

It's doable but fiddly. If you can see the back of the tacho, you stand a chance - there are two bullet connectors. Ignition live in, and out to the Eureka wire, both grey moulded (one male which I think is to the Eureka wire and a female which is the ignition feed in straight from the ignition switch). A meter or test lamp will confirm.


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Post by Crowther » Sun Aug 06, 2017 9:08 pm

Thanks Phil. I'll give it a try.


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Post by Crowther » Wed Aug 09, 2017 9:37 pm

Well, I got the tacho out and labelled all the wiring after confirming that the male bullet (white) was feeding coil +ve. First I double-checked the voltage at the coil with the coil -ve earthed and the ignition on. 5V. Low but clearly ballasted.

Now I just need to work out how to get the new wire from the back of the tacho to halfway up the wing on the opposite side of the car!!

I'm assuming it pops out here?

I peeled off some of the tape but I can't see it. That braided wire terminates in a BOLTED CONNECTION with three ring terminals that seem to go to the ignition control fuse. That can't be standard, surely???

(I also discovered a lot of water in the passenger footwell when I was crawling around wire-hunting)
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Post by Crowther » Tue Aug 15, 2017 10:05 pm

Well the new eureka bypass wire is hooked up! I think "fiddly but doable" was a perfect summary Phil. The electronic ignition is getting a clean 12V and the coil has been replaced with a 12V Lucas jobby. The engine starts and runs well and tomorrow I will take it out on the road to see I the hot misfire is still there...


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Post by Crowther » Sun Aug 27, 2017 2:21 pm

Dare I say it?... The misfire has been cured. Running the electronic ignition from an ignition-switched 12V, bypassing the ballast, has cured it! It is sweltering up here today but the Scim has taken it in his stride.
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Out and about
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Post by Crowther » Sat Nov 11, 2017 2:35 pm

Small job today - fit the original steering wheel in place of the Mountney jobby that was in the Scim when I bought him. Despite being a larger diameter wheel the original sticks out further so there's a little extra wiggle room for my beanpole legs. On the down side I can now see the instruments properly so I can no longer use "Honestly officer, I had no idea"...
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Post by Crowther » Sun Mar 04, 2018 4:50 pm

Now that the Scim has thawed out I've been able to have a good look at him. It is clear that the front quarterlight seals and rear side window seals are on their last legs. I know that these seals are available, for a princely sum, but how do the inner seals for the rear windows work? Does the frame come apart like the tailgate?


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Post by Crowther » Sun Mar 04, 2018 4:53 pm

Also I need to do the tailgate again! Last summer I managed to force too much rubber in at the top and the frame doesn"t sit quite right. It's barely noticeable but now that I've seen it I can't unsee it!


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Post by Crowther » Wed May 02, 2018 1:04 pm

I've been without the car for a week or so as my local garage man has been fitting the stainless fuel tank that I got from the previous owner. He has had "a hell of a time with it" by all accounts - the filler neck didn't line up well with the body and the original tank had the sender on the front, not on the side. The tank is on now but the fuel gauge reads 100% when the tank has only a little fuel in it. Do I need to get a new sender that matches the Smiths gauge, in terms of high/low resistance?


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Scimba - Back in the game

Post by philhoward » Wed May 02, 2018 2:17 pm

Crowther wrote:
Wed May 02, 2018 1:04 pm
The tank is on now but the fuel gauge reads 100% when the tank has only a little fuel in it. Do I need to get a new sender that matches the Smiths gauge, in terms of high/low resistance?
My money is on the wire for the gauge being on the wrong terminal of the sender as most have 2 (plus earth) - one variable for the gauge and one which is a switch for the low fuel lamp (when used on a 6-series).


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Post by Crowther » Mon Jun 04, 2018 8:23 pm

Got the car back, finally (my delay, not the garage's).
The good: With new fuel hose at the tank end it now starts much better!
The bad: it looks like it has been driven through a cowshed at speed. Also at one side the tank strap appears to be pressing on the bodywork, which is concerning...


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Post by Crowther » Tue Jun 05, 2018 9:21 pm

Had a good look at the new tank today. It isn't too bad. I just need to cut away a bit of the bodywork where the strap is rubbing.
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The wiring on the other hand...
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Scimba - Back in the game

Post by Crowther » Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:38 pm

So much for this stainless tank! It has sprung a nasty leak...
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