The SE5a learning curve! - Flora

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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by RockerPhill » Sat Jun 04, 2016 2:32 pm

Hi chaps :)

I've removed the dizzy,
re positioned it,
pointed the rotor arm at number one,
Crank is at TDC
put the leads on in the right places as far as I can tell.

However now when I turn the engine over, it simply pops rather than actually firing; any ideas? :)

Thanks!


- Flora "Tub of Butter" "Buttery Potatoes" "Butterly"
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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by manny » Sat Jun 04, 2016 3:42 pm

is the number 1 piston definitely on the compression stroke at TDC?



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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by RockerPhill » Sat Jun 04, 2016 3:46 pm

That's the next thing to check by the looks! Do I do that by removing the spark plug and making sure the piston is at the top of its stroke? :)


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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by RockerPhill » Sat Jun 04, 2016 4:00 pm

Just pulled No.1 spark plug :)

The Piston is at the very top of its stroke when the crank markings indicate top dead centre.


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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by manny » Sat Jun 04, 2016 4:48 pm

is it worth loosening the distributor and rotating it (re-tighten) and rechecking how it behaves on cranking- but popping does suggest timing is way out or weak mixture?? or both....sorry my knowledge is only based on what i have done to my car to improve its running. Mine was running but popping when trying to accelerate hard...slight tweaking of the distributor was required to stop the pop..
I assume you have the correct firing order of 142536 ( its on the inlet manifold) ...other than fuel ....i will wait for some one more experienced to reply..but good luck ..



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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by philhoward » Sat Jun 04, 2016 7:33 pm

Piston is at TDC twice per cycle. Wind it back 90 degrees, put your finger over the plug hole then wind it forwards at the same time. If you feel your finger being pushed out, it's on the correct (compression) stroke.


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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by Lukeyboy46 » Sat Jun 04, 2016 8:01 pm

I just called Phil to explain that to him :) it's running again now :)


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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by philhoward » Sat Jun 04, 2016 8:02 pm

180 degrees out, or just not within running range?


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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by RockerPhill » Sat Jun 04, 2016 8:45 pm

Thanks for the help all! She's running again now :) took all day to discover the fix but got it thanks to Luke. Shows how general knowledge of these things is the key :lol:

Basically, I didn't realise that just because number 1 was at the top of its stroke, that it wouldn't work.
I turned the crank pulley 360 degrees one more time and found the correct top of the piston! If that makes any sense what so ever!

She seems to be running even better now. Slightly less hot than before so let's keep our fingers and toes crossed :) got a chap coming up Monday to do mixture and timing properly on it so let's hope that fixes it once and for all.

Thanks all!


- Flora "Tub of Butter" "Buttery Potatoes" "Butterly"
-SE5A 1974.
- Student loan funded light restoration.

If nice guys finish last, then that's alright; at least my conscience will be clear at the end.

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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by jond » Sat Jun 04, 2016 10:43 pm

It could just be the temp gauge under or over reading maybe the volts regulator is old and breaking down



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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by Lukeyboy46 » Sat Jun 04, 2016 10:44 pm

Fit a relay to your fan like I suggested also, this increased my fan efficiency tenfold.

Christine sits in traffic no problem these days. I have the same fan as you and a less efficient rad!


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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by RockerPhill » Mon Jun 13, 2016 1:11 pm

Hello chaps :) had a couple of expert opinions come along to try sort out the overheating on the new engine. The latter was the previous owner of the engine before it was rebuilt :) since having the timing and mixture done, the overheating is far better; however, she still overheats now after about 10 minutes of driving. Particularly at idle for any duration of time.
there doesn't seem to be much pressure in the bottom hose below the water pump.

The heads also seem not to be cooling as they should.

Could these issues be linked?

I also removed the thermostat just to try it, but it seems to overheat even quicker now somehow.

Any/all opinions are heartily welcomed.. :dh :)

Edit:

But at least I can drive it around town temporarily now instead of it overheating below or about 54 mph :D


- Flora "Tub of Butter" "Buttery Potatoes" "Butterly"
-SE5A 1974.
- Student loan funded light restoration.

If nice guys finish last, then that's alright; at least my conscience will be clear at the end.

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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by philhoward » Mon Jun 13, 2016 1:37 pm

The thermostat performs 2 functions - letting hot water out is its primary function but it also acts as a deliberate restriction to keep the coolant in the engine long enough to actually extract the heat in the first place.

I'm assuming the following as the normal mode of operation from cold:

Engine starts to warm up
When the gauge just approaches the 90 degree mark, the thermostat will open - the top hose will rapidly warm up (some slight warming will be evident up to this point)
The engine temperature might dip a few degrees when this happens as there is a slight delay before the thermostat starts to regulate the temperature to about 90 degrees (ideally just under).

If sat idling, the bottom hose will start to warm up as there's very little air flow through the radiator.

At the point where the radiator approaches about 80 degrees (about 90 on the gauge normally), the fan should come on and start cycling (exact on/off times can vary depending on the exact rad, fan and switch setup) but should settle into a regular cycle. Mine's on for about 10 seconds, off for 30 at this point but don't take that as gospel. This should happen until you get bored or run out of petrol.

This assumes the waterways are not full of crud and it holds pressure - if it appears not to be holding pressure (can you just squeeze the bottom hose a bit or totally flatten it?) then first call would be the radiator cap if there's no obvious leak. It should build up pressure before the stat even opens though.


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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by RockerPhill » Mon Jun 13, 2016 1:46 pm

Thanks Phil; in my mind, that seems to mimic some symptoms.. The bottom hose when idling on the driveway is a bit softer and doesn't feel like 13PSI.. Maybe I have an issue with pressure? They seem okay on th top hoses, but not the bottom.. I'm also wondering if a blocked heater matrix would make any difference to it?

Also, I've had an unbearable whistle coming from the base of the dizzy. I just pulled it to clean the surface and see what I could do, put it back in exactly as it came out, but now it's turning over until a bit of a deep tremor occurs..

Edit; think the battery has just died in all fairness. Clock works and haven't given it a proper run since the start of the month.


Not having much luck here.

I've also just boiled the kettle to check this thermostat. Both the cap and stat are new, but it may be an idea to change them anyway..


- Flora "Tub of Butter" "Buttery Potatoes" "Butterly"
-SE5A 1974.
- Student loan funded light restoration.

If nice guys finish last, then that's alright; at least my conscience will be clear at the end.

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Re: The SE5a learning curve! - engine timing?

Post by philhoward » Mon Jun 13, 2016 1:59 pm

Has the heater matrix always been blocked? I only ask because if there's any silt/much in the system, the heater matrix make a great filter for the cooling system...

A whistle from the base of the dizzy? Sounds like it could be ingesting air (unless its a steel timing gear) which would give a lean mixture and cause overheating possibly only on one or 2 cylinders. When you think you have the mixture right, it never hurts to see what the spark plugs say. All Haynes manuals have a "spark plug colour guide" in them, but you should be able to google one easily enough as well.

What does the coolant look like - clear (I hope blue as well, with antifreeze) or muddy?


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Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

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