At last! I have my SE5 back!

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

Moderators: scimjim, Roger Pennington, Lukeyboy46, philhoward, erikscimitardemon

User avatar
MikeyBikey
Posts: 5188
Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 2:55 pm
Location: Sunny Falmouth. :)
Has thanked: 130 times
Been thanked: 67 times

Re: At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by MikeyBikey » Sun Jul 16, 2017 7:58 am

Andy some people prefer to take gearbox and engine out together. Although it's a big combination. I don't but that's just a preference. I've made a frame out of timber, two A frames, a cross member and a block and tackle . This was simply as I don't have access to a decent hoist and I grew up with a timber yard so it's easy choice to work with


Owner of a fantastic se5a (nee 5 speed) that's a bit quick (well, feels like it is!!) and now running on lpg
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=8036
And is now going sprinting viewtopic.php?f=20&t=24376

MikeT
RSSOC Member
Posts: 1173
Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:35 pm
Location: Dudley, West Mids
Has thanked: 18 times
Been thanked: 20 times

Re: At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by MikeT » Sun Jul 16, 2017 8:58 am

Also, if you go for the crane, the general opinion is that you'll need a 2 tonne one, as a 1 tonne one will be at its limit when it's fully extended.

Cheers,
Mike.


1978 Scimitar SE6a - Project thread

Image

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 33369
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 107 times
Been thanked: 642 times

Re: At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by scimjim » Sun Jul 16, 2017 9:27 am

I always remove engine and box together - much easier to mate the two on the bench and check everything over. Mikey has selective memory about laying on his back under the car for hours on end trying to align the splines (then doing it again because he's put it together wrong) :-)


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Akuchanny
RSSOC Member
Posts: 558
Joined: Fri May 20, 2011 9:55 am
Location: Poplar - East london
Has thanked: 13 times
Been thanked: 1 time
Contact:

At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by Akuchanny » Thu Oct 26, 2017 3:54 pm

Hey Guys,

sorry I haven't been online for a while now. No progress with the car at all apart from the fact that I have a working replacement engine so I can now pull out the one in the car and see if I can get her back on the road. Its a running 3.1 Essex with a steel timing gear, so a bit better than my standard 3.0 with a fibre gear that will be sent off for a rebuild and hopefully back in the car at some point (its only got 40k on it and is original to the car)

Now I have only installed and removed a series engines before so and finding the scimitar and its way back in the bay design a little intimidating. I could do with some more advice I'm planning to take the engine and box out at the same time and attach the box after a check over, to the new engine. Any pointers anyone can give? if anyone wants to help, I can offer everlasting gratitude, beer and food as a thank you.

I have a 2 ton crane that I hope will reach the block. I have also bough a us carb lifting plate that I am going to add the holes to for the webber so it can be used to lift the block so will hopefully be safer.

But I also need to redo the repairs at the front of the car, as well as straighten the nose and the crack and dip in the wheel arches, I was thinking maybe cutting into it a bit and using some sort of prop to push the nose into the right position with the wheel arches? I was thinking of doing this in the spring / summer after the engine swap and any possible damage caused by mishap.....

Once the cars running I also want to lower the floors so I have a bit more head room, but that is not urgent. I really just want to get behind the wheel of the car again and drive it as its been nearly two years again since I have moved it under its own power.

Any info, pointers of help would be hugely appreciated as I'm worried the car will deteriorate if not sorted soon.


Andrew Kuchanny - 2530
London
71' SE5
61' Morris Minor

User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 22753
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 33 times
Been thanked: 413 times
Contact:

At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by philhoward » Thu Oct 26, 2017 5:07 pm

Carb lifting plate is the right way for an engine and box combined. Just check your reach and the loading at that reach as the capacity drops off as you extend the jib (naturally).

Nose position should be set by the front metal work? If in doubt, Mark Wilson (gtcse8) has just run a batch of galvanised crossmembers and triangles.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1's - 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5
SE5a Barn Find Project 24 Valve conversion
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

Akuchanny
RSSOC Member
Posts: 558
Joined: Fri May 20, 2011 9:55 am
Location: Poplar - East london
Has thanked: 13 times
Been thanked: 1 time
Contact:

At last! I have my SE5 back!

Post by Akuchanny » Thu Oct 26, 2017 10:50 pm

Thanks Phil,

The nose is almost in position, its just sagged from the grass damage. Ideally I think grafting a new front on to the car will be the best option. But need to find a SE5 front end....

The galvanised parts do sound very interesting

Andy


Andrew Kuchanny - 2530
London
71' SE5
61' Morris Minor

Post Reply

Return to “Project Progress”