"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

Moderators: scimjim, Lukeyboy46, erikscimitardemon, Roger Pennington, philhoward

User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:24 pm

Mmmuuhaaahhhaaaa...

yesterday we did exchange the catalytic converter of a MK V Ford Fiesta....Man, that was crap. Things are really easily reachable in a Scimitar compared to this...Found the same issues on my Audi A4 B7 enginebay, all is soooo much tighter.....


1975 SE5a restoration link
Image Image

User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Wed Apr 18, 2018 8:44 pm

Hey guys....

long time nothing from me... and not a lot to report. We fiddled out the cat issues on the Fiesta. This is REALLY something I don't want to do again that soon.

There are two things though I can report:
1. the Steering coloum has a lot of longitudanal play. I checked all joints if one may be loose but all bolts at in and tight as far as I can see. With the exception of the on IN the damper turret... will check this
2. found one drop of oil under the car (which so far was oil tight :) ). It seems either the oil pan is not sealed well or - if worse - the rear crankshaft seal. And if this would be the case this would really suck.
Those two I did not change as theiy where really looking new when I did the engine... HMM.. Let's see...

otherwise car runs ok.

Question: Are your squab seats also kind of loos so when you have luggage in the back it can move the squabs slightly to the upright position? Or does it bend back enough so that this doesn't occur?

Thanks


1975 SE5a restoration link
Image Image

User avatar
Roger Pennington
RSSOC Member
Posts: 20304
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:43 pm
Has thanked: 168 times
Been thanked: 561 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Apr 18, 2018 9:15 pm

Pepe wrote:
Wed Apr 18, 2018 8:44 pm
Question: Are your squab seats also kind of loos so when you have luggage in the back it can move the squabs slightly to the upright position? Or does it bend back enough so that this doesn't occur?
AFAIK the rear seats were all designed with an "over-centre" action, so that the backrests would "settle" into the correct position, and could only be folded forward by lifting simultaneously?
I believe later seats in late 6as onwards had catches, not so much because they needed them, but because regulations said they had to have them?


....Roger

RSSOC member (since 1982)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Image

"Condition can be bought at any time; Originality, once lost, is gone forever" - Doug Nye

User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Sun May 27, 2018 12:16 pm

Hey guys.

Recently on a nice day i went searchin for Water ingress areas.
And there where plenty unfortunately:

- Rears screen (of course!!). The lower halve is not watertight as suspected. Water flows in inbetween hardened old seal and sealant stuff, down to lowest point of screen, out and then down the rear valance into the trunk.... and not small amounts of it. As I have the seal already I think I need to tackle the rear screen at some point... The pain of splitting the frames and so fortth... Is the inner U channel window-frame seal available new in good fitting quality or just something alike it that creates more trouble than satisfaction?
Then I probably leave it the way it is now and reseal with silicone or window sealant....

- Front quarter windows... totally porous. I expected the car to leak here but it needed to be finished for Wedding :) Tackling this s also a mayor chunk of work. It would involve undoing and disassembling the doors again as otherwise the areas of concern are unreachable. I am thinking of Making the quaterlights unmovable and glue them in with sealant... Vic makes the seals but they are quite expensive (understandable)...

- Doors and weatherstrips:
As doors are somehow wound they do not seal well at the bottom. Good thing is that all water that enters from weatherstrips and U channel and besides it (huge gaps to doorbody/windows chromeframe) runs out of them onto sealing foil, down and out between foil and door under doorcards out through non sealing door seals.... (a PAIN) :hand: :hand:
Needs Adjusting doors and proper sealing idea for U channels of power windows. This could have never been tight in the crass live before with thos gaps...

- Rear quarter lights:
These leak from a not water tight waterdrain channel. Water runs down between this and body and then behind window seal, and out of Seal to interieur at low point of quarterlights...
This involves removing the waterchannels again...
Again: Are rear qurterlighight seals available new in goodquality that really seal? Forgive me but I do not very much like the QRG stuff here... All seals I had from here were not original spec neither good quality for cost and a paint to fit (Front screen).



But there is also other news:
I inspected the Car for TÜV after a very nice long distance ride.
- Oilleaks seem to come from sweating motor gaskets: Both oil pan and head gasket had some oil sweat. This seems to come from the setting phase when seals got hot. the Cork seal I retighten a bit more very slightly, the bolts where very loose.
- Some little bit of oil leaks out of the gearbox rear end.
- grease has been thrown around from driveshaft yokes
All this could have been just wiped and looks good otherwise...

- The steering column top yoke was obviously loose on the steering column. Bolts where al tight but that hasn't been enough... a little more tightening did the job. I was afraid to brake the yoke though...so far all is good and steering now is without play longitudinal.

- Steering grease/ Oil (I had both in the pinion rack), leakes out of joints and presses out the gaitors. Also here a little retightening the bolts hopefully helps as they had been not tight enough maybe. The new paper seals leakes some oil and Grease has been pressed out of gaitors.
There is no breathing hole anywhere in the rack. Is this normal? The rack can't equalize pressure when moved quickly on the lift....

- Squab seats and trunk cover.
I am thinking of adding some locks similar to SE6 to it. The mechnism allows the seats to stand up slightley when trunk junk presses against them when braking... I don't like this.
Too, I'd like to fix the cover with the original buttons. Unfortunately they are lost and not anymore on the rear plastic covers.
Anybody have an idea wherr to get them? These are the knobs on the cover itself I mean:

Image
Image
Image

- Frontseat-Bride-damage
My bride did damage the front seat when driving home the next day from the location :) The spring did remove and the seat was over-bend.
This was rectified by removing the seat from the car putting is back in original position and put the spring back on the seat. Also I tought my wife not to use brutal force on seats she doesn't understand :)

- Cooling system:
Nicely when topped up a little even the loing run on motorway and through contrylanes recently did not push the temperature gauge a lot above 90°C :) The fan did not come on one time on a 20-25°-ish day :)


1975 SE5a restoration link
Image Image

User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Sun May 27, 2018 2:20 pm

I found these buttons are TENAX Style parts... Will see if i find some matchin ones...


1975 SE5a restoration link
Image Image

User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Tue Jul 17, 2018 2:18 pm

Hi guys.... some minor Progress to report:

The boot cover has been refurbed with new Tenax and according holders in the car were mounted. No pics taken unfotrtunately. the holes have already been there so it was a simple relaxing bolt on job :)

Too I had fun with the first regular TÜV inspection.
It is unbelievable that the first TÜV already is 2 Years ago. It is also time to summarize some items that occured.

TÜV Trouble:
- CO Value too high (4.7%, Limit is 4.5% and that after Carburettor finetune)...
- Handbrake values too low (I was telling them Scimitars handbrake system is weak but they insited car needs to road legal... means 15% minimum, was 14%...)
- Headlamps too high.

Well all this was solvable but after a bad Friday the 13th i was fed up with it... I tuned the mixture screw on the Weber in a 3/4 and CO values dropped to 2%. Right after TÜV Examination I returned to 1/4 only to run on too rich instead of too lean.
Finally though I was able to get the desired vehicle inspection sticker.

They did say nothing and didn't on registering the car about the suspension being shitty. I swap my GAZ adjustable shocks to the original worn outs for TÜV :)


Recp:
so.... recapping after 2 Years of driving a Scimitar for approx 2-3k km :)
- one breakdown (gearshifter balljoint broke)
- 195 15"PA rims do run rough (not properly tuned probably), also hard to steer, 185 original 14"Dunlops much better to drive, less vibration, better control
- Car is not watertight still :oops: :oops: :oops: But At least I found out where: (basically everywhere :) )
- Front quarter (Seal)
- door window seals (large gaps)
- rear quarter window (alloy water drain not sealing, worn seal)
- rear screen (Frame swollen, seal done)
- sorted stabilizer dropdowns
- no mayor oil leaks. Slight leaks on gear box output, Oil pan. Headgasket (this is probably coming done from valve covers)
- starting is a bit tricky when hot. this is more a problem of the starter I assume that often is not able to crank the engine, seems it is more stuck when hot. It revs freely when cold.
- Cooling problems came down a bit, but at high outside temp (~30 Degrees) it still suffers and fan comes on during stationary quite often and temps are close to red... Sometimes this also happens during driving.
But all in all it did not boil over ever.
- bloody rear drums seem unadjustable and useless. One more click in on adjuster and they run hot but do brake, but also increase engine load, one too less and drums are unefficent. From technical point of view what I don't like most are the rear drums. I may start to investigate to rebuilt to MG or Triumph drums or so (better availability) or go disk altogether including new Servo.
- both seats adjusters are shitty. need new gears and clamping pieces here (One I have already thanks to Forum)
...there is more to report, but that'll be too much too read and boring


1975 SE5a restoration link
Image Image

User avatar
MikeyBikey
Posts: 6091
Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:55 pm
Location: Sunny Falmouth. :)
Has thanked: 327 times
Been thanked: 157 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by MikeyBikey » Wed Jul 18, 2018 8:23 am

Lots of progress. :D

Pepe, my car used to leak everywhere but new seals and a bit of sealants and taking off and refitting has basically stopped almost all of them. Where water does still come in, eg rear hatch frame, I created a path of sealant on the rear ‘bulkhead’
on the inside to take the water to a drain hole I had drilled.

The rear windows I have refitted two or three times. That has settled them. Don’t forget the string trick.

Brakes, I converted to disks all round. Fantastic but how would your SUV accept it ?


Is we sideways yet...

User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Mon Oct 15, 2018 5:55 pm

Hey guys,

I enjoyed getting back the Scimitar to Cologne again yesterday. Sunniest October ever. Pretty warm, no cloud at all.... Global Warming is definitiely here.

This was taken when I exchanged some cars :) The white 924 is new in the family...
Image

I was able to check the broken Seat reclining mechnism.... The TÜV guy bend the filigran seat hinge pivot plate on the side... I need to rectify this with a few hammer beats. The teeth of the blocker where not matching anymore before. After rebending it was aligned again and again well holding the seat back.

What this guy also obviously broke and what ai didn't realize is breaking the steering wheel. He was holding tight and then moving himself on the seat.. :bh :bh :bh I just realized this when turnign the wheel. It looks completly undamaged from outside, but the Aluminium ring internally is broken on the inside :(

Now looking for a new SE5 (3 Spoke) steering wheel.

And I had the old one re-leathered...

If anyone has a 3 Spoke Steeringwheel I am more than interested to buy. Also I need a fuel Filler cap inner Seal. Are those available new?



User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Sun Oct 28, 2018 7:58 pm

Hey guys,

while I am "at home" I was a bit busy with making this:

I wonder if this will be usefule sometime.... Basically it shall serve for a Model I am wanting to do at some uncertain point in time:

Image

Still a lots of bits are missing but it doesn't look to bad and its fun to construct something in 3D...


1975 SE5a restoration link
Image Image

User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:18 pm

Hey guys,

after the winterbrake I revitalized the Scimitar today with no issues... It seems I should adjust the GAZ Suspension properly at some point, feels a bit swampy....

It was a matter of putting the chared battery in again and turn the key twice like usual...... First turns for some second gets the fuel to the front again, 2nd spin usually turns the car on almost immediatly.

... and then there is the Fuel Filler cap seal that leaks. I need that one from a good Material like viton.
I know QRG have them, but are they Viton or any other good gasolin e resitant material? Any experiences?

Diameters seems to be different from mine:
QRG 66 x 42 x 2 mm, Mine is 66 x 45 x 2.... Whats correct?
Shouild in General some thincker be used? like 3mm or 2.5 to have a little more pressure? to ensure good sealing?
Was thinking to buy sheet material and cut myself...

Thanks

Christian


1975 SE5a restoration link
Image Image

User avatar
philhoward
RSSOC Member
Posts: 25828
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 5:41 pm
Location: Staffs, UK
Has thanked: 78 times
Been thanked: 707 times
Contact:

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by philhoward » Tue Mar 26, 2019 8:46 pm

I would guess that QRG buy them in from the manufacturer as they still exist? In which case, I’d expect it to be right.


Phil Howard
Scimitarweb Forum Admin
SS1 1600 Rooster Turbo; Sabre Mk1.5, Sabre Mk2
Previous: SE5/5a/SS1 No.1/SS1 Rooster/SS1 1800Ti/SE5a 24 Valve
http://www.ss1turbo.com
Never try and argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you based on experience.

User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Fri Apr 19, 2019 7:19 pm

Hey guys,

I got the fuel lif sealed up with a new seal.. I am curious if it really is tight, but looks like... Fueled up yesterday with the new one and had some hard accelerations to have the gasoline swap around.
So far no stains on the bumper...

The seal itself I found useful from a Volvo Amazon on Fleebay for a few Euros only. The inner diameter is smaller but thickness is correct. I cut out the inner and made it fit with a screwdriver and some oil to slide it in the lid-

Too I got my steering rim which is broken leather un-wrapped to inspect the damage.
...and as expected the aluminium rim was broken in one place.
This was then repaired with a ring of Aluminium 6mm round material that has been bend round and glued on properly with 2 Comp Epoxy and wrapped around with wire. That sandwich was heated in the oven to cure to 180°for 5 minutes as indicated on the 2k glue pack... It feels a lot stronger and more stable now.

And there is a new issue with the silly exhaust clamps: The screws point down and are too low for garage entry I have now for it. Scratches the surface as it is quite bend...will need to re-place thempointing upside down, otherwise it is good protection for the underside.
But I do not want too much pressure on the exhausts to brake either tubes or or even manifolds....
Too the landlord may not be amused about the scratches on the stones...

Well that is it so far...


1975 SE5a restoration link
Image Image

User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Fri Jul 05, 2019 6:33 am

Long time nothing written...

Not to much happening on the scimitar. Mainly sitting in the garage currently.

Got the PAs properly balanced now and some new spacers will be made for front so they eventually do run a lot smoother. Even more so when the crappy pressed alloy Chinese old spacers have between replaced against quality made ones made to fit properly.

I have a new garage and unfortunately the exhausts are hanging so low that every time I enter and leave it scratches the surface - it goes downhill a steep angle. 😐 Not sure how to fix this other than having a new exhaust system less low (... and potentially even engine raised a bit as the manifolds do scratch too) , have the cars suspension lifted or wooden blocks laid out, which is uncomfortable. Even my very low 944 makes it with no issues...

I am potentially willing to swap an adjustable GAZ suspension which just almost new against a Spax one which has bigger chances at tüv for classic H registration here. Alternatively a standard non adjustable GAZ would do... Does somebody have a new or used Spax adjustable incl springs in good condition lying around?

Otherwise not much to tell. Car runs ok. Looses no oil or other fluids, brakes a bit soft still...


1975 SE5a restoration link
Image Image

User avatar
Pepe
Posts: 909
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:49 am
Has thanked: 16 times
Been thanked: 13 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Sat Oct 12, 2019 4:10 pm

Hey guys,

some progress to report:
I ordered new brakedrums at QRG.
Those do match mine and are marked BDM1658, made by Girling
They can be found in this document by DJAauto-internationalltd.co.uk:
It states it is for an SE6a onwards but it fits the late SE5A.
pdf document

...new raw drums
Image

...bit of black heat resistant paint for rust protection
Image

...and finally fitting. This was pretty straight forward:
Image

turned out that they both do run round, no bumps, so the brake shoes and mechnics is obviously in good nick... I took the car for a spin and it looks the brakedrum do work well.
Still the handbrake is not very helpful, it is a weak piece of mechanics.... Well I guess this is as good as it gets.

I found some oily dirt in the left drum, it is obviously diff oil. I didn't find anything leaking or oily stains in the wheels so it is a very small amount. I'll keep an eye on this and on the brakefluid just in case. All brake hardware is new so I do not expect any issues here, but you'll never know.

I did also remove the U-bolts on the exhaust pipes and exchanged them against some stainless bandclamps.
They are building up less height under the car and they help exiting the garage entryway (where I scratched the surface every time :)). Too, I raised the pipes by hanging them higher on the middle hanger.
Result is that they doesn't scratch that often anymore, now the gearbox support is the lowest part. From time to time this does scratch :)

Rest works pretty fine. Well, except one thing probably where you guys can help me with you experience:
I sometime have theisse that the starter hangs or is obviously very tight when the car is very hot.
Today I drove into the Garage with the car very hot (showing almost red (120°C), real readings ~90° cooler in, ~82° cooler out) and turned it off. Left it sitting for ~5 minutes to repark my daily driver and then the Scimitar didn't want to start. Battery is fully charged but started doesn't rev the engine. Probably one turn before it starves.
I was forced to push my car into its parking space by hand which took ~10 minutes and re-trying the starter revved the engine again although the car wouldn't start at once. After some tries i was successful and it came alive.

Is there the possibility that the starter is too tightly mounted and with some heat in the engine case the starter clamps/gets stuck?
Any ideas?
As the starter is a Lucas LRS130 exchanged parts (from 83 or 85 or so and not the original) and a quick search on google states its intended to go into an Essex V6, so correct Choice. Do you think being a refurbed and again overhauled part it may be to weak?


1975 SE5a restoration link
Image Image

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 38583
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 155 times
Been thanked: 1052 times

"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by scimjim » Sat Oct 12, 2019 6:25 pm

SE6a brake drums won’t fit SE5/5a - SE6 ones will.

The handbrake levers (where they enter the drum) may be worn and/or you may have a plastic wheel at the handbrake end - replace wheel with alloy and/or weld repair levers to get a good handbrake.

If all of the starter connections are good (earth should be good as you cleaned and rebuilt everything) I suspect the starter needs a refurb.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Post Reply

Return to “Project Progress”