"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

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MikeyBikey
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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by MikeyBikey » Sat Feb 03, 2018 9:57 pm

Great stuff with the wheels and tyres. Certainly food for thought


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Rev Light » Tue Feb 06, 2018 12:07 pm

Too rich for my blood. Those tyres are outrageously priced when I looked. Circa £120 a corner + spare (i.e. £600)

I am about to go down the same path. But I will need 5 new tyres. But I will not be those when I can get a suitably rated Avon for close to £50 a corner.....

Let me know if you managed to pick them up more cheaply

Steve


SE5a 'Fancier'

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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:29 pm

Hey guys...

Thanks for the hint with Will :)
I am in contact with him but he seems to bei either very busy or is angry with me .. :(

He does not reply anymore since prior to cristmas when we made the deal I want to get one set for Dunlops and one for the MAG GTs.

Let's see.

The Tires are really awesome, unfortunatly it is currently to colad and icy for them.

When I bought them ("used", only once fitted then found to be not fitting the previours owners car), i paid around 300 Euros with tubes. Maybe due to the fact that Vredestein is a durch company and Germany is close....

BTW: Here is a distance picture from of how the SE5a looks now:
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Honestly not very nice pic, low res from far distance with mobile cam... and from crappy angle. Looks all too ballony.
It looks better in flesh... Whereas I have to say I like the PAs better :) Anyway the drive is just sooo much better... I wish there where 185ers for 15" PAs :)
Another try with the 14" PAs and the Vredesteins?


EDIT:
BTW: The Alternater is also re-assembled again, no pics though... want to try to build it in to try if its working... the Alternator pully on the rebuilt "original" A127/A133 series alternator does match the belt better than the more-modern-Transit Unit I am driving around now although it has slightly higher output.... I'll report if the bloody thing finally works ...
Last edited by Pepe on Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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scimjim
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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by scimjim » Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:33 pm

Why have you got inner tubes?

Bill is always busy :D


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by gtcse8 » Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:44 pm

I would have just swapped the alternator for a higher output Brand New unit from a canal boat.

I can supply SS wheel nuts IF you still want and need them if Bill is not interested?.

Mark


See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s, GTC, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Mon Feb 19, 2018 11:53 pm

that's easy... they came with the tires... and one of the old wheels was loosing Air. So I played safe and mounted the tubes... tire company was neither pro nor con, they said (specialized on old wheels) that it has no disadvantages...


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Tue Feb 20, 2018 12:13 am

Well Bill is interested but busy I guess ?! :)

@ MArk: Do you offer both MAG PA GTs and Dunlops?
I don't really think the higher output is really necessary ony a electrical healthy car with good connections and probably some improvements on old grounding and lights relief switch and so on. ... Well... I hope... the newer Alternator currently on does 65 Amps I believe but goes down on low revs when idling. A slightly bigger pully would help I guess.

My Car is pretty standard electrically, although I improved here and there .
I put a new reworked Fuse box on in which I incorporated Ignition and lights relief relays and apart from that cared about good grounding of lights.
Also the Alternator revceived a doubled-up 4mm² wire to the battery for better charging and supplying of Battery.
So far nothing to complain about.
Lights do not dim when going highbeam (all 4 on)
Also so far no diming in bulbs when breaking or turn-signalling on rear ... Looks like there is enough current that can flow correctly out of the NIssan Micra Style battery (that was the only one that fitted the slot...)

While I think about it: When the Engine is hot and "compressed" it does turn the starter a bit un-willing, as if the voltage of the systems would be too low.... Guess turning torque of hot Starter is a bit limited by limited current from that small 45Ah battery that cannot drive starter against compression.
This is not the case when car is cold.
Once the engine has (with some effort) turned two-three times it revs more freely and also does start.

Next battery probably has more starting amps for the 3 litre.. rather than 1.3 litre :)


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by philhoward » Tue Feb 20, 2018 6:56 am

Guess turning torque of hot Starter is a bit limited by limited current from that small 45Ah battery that cannot drive starter against compression.
This is not the case when car is
Just to make sure you’re not going down the wrong route - the CCA rating of a battery determines how much current it can give and the motor can convert to torque. The Ah rating just says how long it can do it for...


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by gtcse8 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:53 am

The alternators that I choose have a direct 14V take off and only need 1 extra wire direct to the +v on the battery, they self regulate to produce this voltage at tickover as canal boat engines do not rev very highly, they also supply up to 80A at full revs.
alternator readout..jpg
alternator readout..jpg (164.29 KiB) Viewed 939 times


See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s, GTC, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Tue Feb 20, 2018 7:37 pm

philhoward wrote:
Tue Feb 20, 2018 6:56 am
Guess turning torque of hot Starter is a bit limited by limited current from that small 45Ah battery that cannot drive starter against compression.
This is not the case when car is
Just to make sure you’re not going down the wrong route - the CCA rating of a battery determines how much current it can give and the motor can convert to torque. The Ah rating just says how long it can do it for...
Sure the 45Ah are not related to the hundrets of Amps a Battery can deliver for start. But as it is designed to be for 1.3l engines rather then 3l engines the starting current is usually lower tha a Battery that would be designed for a 3l Engine. If I am not completetly wrong ti was around 400 A of starting current whereas the 70Ah in my other care can deliver close to 650A.

Interesting to learn about "tugboats" :) What the cost of such a unit?
What's the roundabout value for a ratio engine crankshaft to Alternator pulley? 3:1? Then at 750 rev's at idle The above Alternator would deliver almost full current already.

What would it do wenn it goes well above that? will it just go linear in current? Or will it's regulation "overrev" at 5500rpm of the Essex?

And Yes, whoever can supply stainless nuts (or new chrome) I'll go for it.. you've got mail :)

Thanks


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by philhoward » Tue Feb 20, 2018 7:52 pm

The 015 battery specified for a Scimitar was also the one specified for the Rover P6 3500 V8 ;)


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by scimjim » Tue Feb 20, 2018 7:57 pm

"tugboats"?

pah... :boxer:


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:30 pm

...Sorry Scimjim :) just kidding...

I haven't got that 015 spec Battery :) just checked some pictures: Starter Battery is 45Ah/300A :) Bit low probably...


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by Pepe » Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:33 pm

Well... bit low is not so right obviously... Lucas 015 is 42Ah 350A...


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"I thought I'd just put the brakes together and drive it"...

Post by gtcse8 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:19 pm

Christian I can make most of the nuts for most of the wheels.
I have sizes for both types of Dunlop, but no sizes for PA.

My Stainless is all "Marine grade 316, including collars if required.

The last alternator I purchased was £80 delivered.


See the Beast on youtube under" RELIANT SCIMITAR CONVERSION LOL.,Se5,Se5a, Se6a, Two Se6b`s, GTC, SST 1800Ti & not a lot of sense

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