Coupe Build From Australia

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expat2000
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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by expat2000 » Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:07 am

I have wondered about this in the UK as well. My car, a 1977 SE6A, was the subject of a complete rebuild in March 2000 by the previous owner including the purchase and fitment of a brand new galvanised chassis, and yet it retains the 1977 registration and the original license date on the V5 is 1977. There was also new interior, suspension, engine strip and rebuild with new heads, roller rockers, hydraulic tappets, new glass, all new wiring etc etc.

As far as i can tell the only original major components left are the bodyshell and engine block.

At what point does the car become a 'new' car?

Not complaining, just curious.

Also I am now curious how much it would cost to build a complete new car from new parts?


Living in Oslo without my 1977 SE6A GTE, car was successfully imported and registered then sold as couldn't afford to run it. Now driving a 1998 Audi A4 Estate diesel.

1949bug
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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by 1949bug » Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:52 am

expat2000 wrote: At what point does the car become a 'new' car?

Also I am now curious how much it would cost to build a complete new car from new parts?
1. Heres your answer to the 1st question :lol:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbha4XclSMU

2. Very expensive! I bought my se5 with out and engine or gear box, and the cost to get these two items sorted and in the car I could have easily bought a running example for the same extra cost!

Incedently there is a "new" GTC shell in ebay at the moment, though im not sure as to its credibility?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Reliant-S ... 0668812986 :?



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Roger Pennington
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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Jul 20, 2011 12:14 pm

1949bug wrote: Incedently there is a "new" GTC shell in ebay at the moment, though im not sure as to its credibility?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Reliant-S ... 0668812986 :?
Yes, this has been on before - if by credibility you mean it's authenticity, then I think it's quite well known, and is for sale by a recognised long-term Scimitar trade specialist (Dave Mac), who has been forced to re-locate his premises. It has appeared here before in This Thread


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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by scimjim » Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:26 pm

expat2000 wrote:I have wondered about this in the UK as well. My car, a 1977 SE6A, was the subject of a complete rebuild in March 2000 by the previous owner including the purchase and fitment of a brand new galvanised chassis
there's been quite a lot of discussion on this subject on the land rover forums and a chassis replacement depends on whether it's NEW and from Land Rover or an approved supplier - or second hand refurbished? where was your NEW galv chassis from as theoretically you would need to prove it's authenticity (of course in practice it's irrelevant :-))


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Tony Jones
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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by Tony Jones » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:39 pm

HELL FIRE!! :o :o :o :o

This is a magnificent build and series of posts!! Fantastic work, and again, like others I wish I had your space, your fantastic workshop and of course your talents, skill and expertise!

I'll be definitely glued to this one 8)

On the other hand, i'm off to ask admin to remove my project as I have an overwhelming feeling of inadequacy now!! :D :D :D :D


1978 Se6a "Mamba"
1975 SE5a "Kato"
1969 SE5

1969 S2a Airportable Land Rover

Coco La Blanc

Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by Coco La Blanc » Fri Jul 22, 2011 1:17 am

Vincent,
Congratulations - Excellent thread, fantastic project ;~}
Regards,
Viv



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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by Slooby » Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:36 am

Vincent, forgive me if you have, but did you consider Zinc Flame Spraying as alternative to getting the chassis galvanized? Almost as good has hot dipped, but with none of the distortion concerns plus a nice keyed surface finish for painting.


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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by mermar74 » Sun Jul 24, 2011 2:00 pm

I have considered this method as well, but it will not be necessary for this build. The climate here is kind on cars which are well maintained and garaged. With the preventative measures I am proposing to carry out, this chassis should out live me and the next generation I would think.

Victor



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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by Slooby » Sun Jul 24, 2011 11:39 pm

Fair enough (apologies for getting your name wrong!) used to use it a lot on the fabrications for the machinery I once sold as it meant we could get the frames made and then a decent protective finish putting on them before they spent the next 30 years on the roof of a tall building...also ideal for the underside of classic British steel bodied vehicles :lol:


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'98 Subaru Impreza Turbo Track Hack running-gear-less :(
'68 Mini 1000 Mk2 (first car & still owned)
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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by mermar74 » Sat Aug 06, 2011 8:25 am

The Build Continues

Next job was fabricating the outriggers and side anti intrusion bars to my design.

I find occupant protection to be disturbingly lacking in this model, and improvements needed to be implemented for my piece of mind at the least. Now I am no Ralf Nader, but from a safety point of view the Coupe offers very little occupant side protection in a collision. The seats are positioned mostly outside the chassis rails (viewed from top), and there is no metal structure at all outside of the seats, so the fiberglass doors and sills are the only safety barrier during a side impact.
As well, the seats are only fixed to the thin fiberglass floor, a less than ideal attachment at best. Now some will argue that fiberglass can absorb an impact better than steel in an accident, so not having steel is acceptable, but for my piece of mind I want the extra insurance of steel included.

On the original design, the inside face of outrigger is the only part that is attached to chassis; the outer end is totally unsupported and flailing in the wind. The seat belt mounts to rear outrigger at the outer unsupported end, the flailing end, not exactly a good design. There is no side anti intrusion bar connecting each pair of outriggers, just a void spot in between.

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Much thought has gone into how to best make improvements before chassis construction started. I eventually settled on a plan, and then had to work out in advance how these changes could be incorporated during chassis construction.

The improvements I settled on are;

More substantial outriggers, made from boxed shaped 2mm sheet steel, 100mm wide across top.

Outriggers designed to bolt onto chassis (each with 4 - 3/8” bolts) rather than welded on as original. This is a far stronger method of attachment; due to design of the attaching crush tubes and support cage assembly inside main chassis frame rails distributing the load over the full chassis box section (see previous installment), rather than just the outside face as original.

Seat belt attaches to outrigger with a bracket and two bolts; also this area has been double plated for extra strength.

All the nuts for body mount and seat belt bolts have been made captive in outriggers for ease of assembly.

The steel plates that sandwich the fiberglass floors to outriggers have been increased in size, now measuring 330mm by 100mm. This will allow for a wider floor area to be clamped. Four bolts are used for clamping rather than the original three.

Enlarged exhaust through holes in outriggers to accept larger 2 inch diameter pipe. The exhaust routing is a pain on these cars, especially where it goes through the rear outrigger and underneath the rear trailing arm mount brackets on chassis, as space is very tight here. This becomes more problematic when a larger diameter exhaust pipe is fitted (as this car will have), so changes needed to be made to compensate. I increased the size of the front outrigger exhaust hole from 3 inches to 3 ½ inches and welded a collar edge around the holes for increased stiffness. The rear outrigger holes are also 3 ½ inches but have the bottom cut away, so they end up in the shape of an inverted U. With this shape the exhaust pipe can be offered up from the bottom into the hole, rather than through it, as it would be impossible to feed a larger pipe through a closed hole due to interference with trailing arm mount bracket. I also welded a collar edge around these holes.

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The anti intrusion bars are made from 50mm by 2mm mild steel tube and fit right through each pair of outriggers and bolted.

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The centre portion of each intrusion bar is supported by four struts which are triangulated to chassis. These struts are made from square tube, and attached to chassis with custom made brackets.

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During chassis construction threaded crush tubes where incorporated in main frame rails for mounting these brackets.

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Windows are provided in lower face of each outrigger to access the attaching bolts for assembly and removal.

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The struts are removable for exhaust assembly, as the exhaust pipe will fit between upper and lower struts. Image

There is adequate space between each pair of struts for fitting 12 inch oval mufflers. The muffler hanger brackets will also mount to these struts.

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A heat shield will be installed across top of each pair of outriggers for deflecting exhaust heat away from floor.

The seats will mount to brackets welded to the anti intrusion bars and to main chassis rails.

Each rear outrigger will also be fixed to redesigned trailing arm mounts (yet to be made), this will tie the outrigger assembly fore and aft to chassis increasing rigidity to outrigger assembly overall.

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I believe all this is a vast improvement compared to the original system. The only down side is the weight gained with all this extra steel, although being situated down low on the chassis it should not affect handling significantly. I reasoned that less weight has been added than fitting a roll cage incorporating anti intrusion bars for protection, this would have been my other option for increased occupant safety.

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As mentioned in earlier installment, some weight will be removed from the mechanicals to even things out some what, and there will be enough extra power in new engine to compensate if needed.

Till next installment
Victor Pace



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DARK STAR
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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by DARK STAR » Sat Aug 06, 2011 8:47 am

That is beautiful, it will be a shame to cover it all up with the body!

Chris


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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by MikeyBikey » Sat Aug 06, 2011 9:28 am

put a piece of glass over the chassis, move it into the front room and use it as a coffee table. that way you can admire your handiwork forever


Is we sideways yet...

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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by 1949bug » Sat Aug 06, 2011 10:42 am

I'll say it again...............wow. :!: 8)



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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by steve bryant » Sat Aug 06, 2011 11:02 am

when you get to the doors, for extra side impact you can incorporate crash bars and burst proof locks. [most modern cars use these] i know from our Aussie rules you will need to have the striker mounted onto a chassis fixed component.
the chassis is looking good. no, excellent



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Re: Coupe Build From Australia

Post by philhoward » Sat Aug 06, 2011 11:31 am

Stunning work, Victor...simply stunning!


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