My Purple Project - SE5a 1973

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willholderogri
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My Purple Project - SE5a 1973

Post by willholderogri » Fri May 22, 2020 8:56 pm

Nuts and bolts m4 I think make it easier to take apart again should you need too


1962 mini, bedford CA , KR200. morris 1000, mini pickup.several escorts,ford grandad.ford cortina X2 ,astra, SE5A x 2 ,ford focus.

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Post by philhoward » Fri May 22, 2020 8:56 pm

Stunning work.

Call me a coward but when you can (could a few years ago) buy a pair of plastic bodied horns for about a tenner I just bought the new ones...


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Post by adamwilkes » Fri May 22, 2020 9:23 pm

willholderogri wrote:
Fri May 22, 2020 8:56 pm
Nuts and bolts m4 I think make it easier to take apart again should you need too
Ah but why do it the easy way when there's a hard way ? :lol:

I can't help myself - I have to ask questions and find out why. Why ? Dunno :roll:


Scimitar GTE 5a 1973, kinda Highland Purple; after months of work, still a ruin!
I can't help myself - I have to ask questions and find out why. Why ? Dunno :shock:

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My Purple Project - SE5a 1973

Post by willholderogri » Sat May 23, 2020 9:11 am

adamwilkes wrote:
Fri May 22, 2020 9:23 pm
willholderogri wrote:
Fri May 22, 2020 8:56 pm
Nuts and bolts m4 I think make it easier to take apart again should you need too
Ah but why do it the easy way when there's a hard way ? :lol:

I can't help myself - I have to ask questions and find out why. Why ? Dunno :roll:
I'm the same I repair everything I can . I remember pulling a Lucas horn to bits years ago for my bonny and then I used small Allen headed screws to reasemble it . I found out later that is easier to tap it gently whilst holding the horn button at the same time .usually fit it working .especially on the road when mr plod stopped you .


1962 mini, bedford CA , KR200. morris 1000, mini pickup.several escorts,ford grandad.ford cortina X2 ,astra, SE5A x 2 ,ford focus.

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adamwilkes
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Post by adamwilkes » Sat May 23, 2020 9:27 am

Number plate lights: I was angered at first to see that my rear number-plate light couldn't be removed without removing the bumper :evil: After the bumper was off I realised that the bottom edge was tucked under slightly (looks like a tow-hitch shunt), which was stopping the nice chrome/real-glass Lucas number-plate light from sliding down :? Some rubber-mallet work and I think it'll fit back in now! The bracket that the number plate light was bolted to was almost rusted through in many places. I cut off the top 6mm or so before I took this photo as I thought I may save the best bit, but changed my mind:
numberplate lights bracket (1).JPG
numberplate lights bracket (1).JPG (93.19 KiB) Viewed 242 times

A new one was bent from steel, drilled, rust-treated, primed and painted as usual; the lights chromework was cleaned a little bit and bulbs replaced. The bracket is designed to slide up and under the loosened central two tow-bar bracket bolts, completely hidden behind the bumper. I cut the outer edges off so that the tops wouldn't show above the tow-bar ironwork, as it is visible when you look at the top of the bumper. The large bolts are completely shagged, which is why there are lots of washers on them (trying to find good threads!). I hope they are 7/16" UNC as I have ordered a couple of new ones.

New bracketry! I'm bored of black steelwork, so used exciting silver :lol:
numberplate lights bracket (2).JPG
numberplate lights bracket (2).JPG (127.72 KiB) Viewed 242 times

The number-plate was bolted to a couple of multi-cobbled-up builder's steel straps, also attached to the central two bolts. I think I'll try spacers and screws into the bodywork, the way it was originally fixed, but further away from the body so that it sits flush with the drop-plate of the tow-bar.

The tow-bar steelwork was wire-brushed, rust-treated etc etc as usual. This time zinc-rich primer and Hammerite.


Scimitar GTE 5a 1973, kinda Highland Purple; after months of work, still a ruin!
I can't help myself - I have to ask questions and find out why. Why ? Dunno :shock:

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scimjim
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My Purple Project - SE5a 1973

Post by scimjim » Sat May 23, 2020 9:57 am

The original number plate light has a hex headed screw securing the cover, so you can replace the bulb without removing the whole lot.


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adamwilkes
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Post by adamwilkes » Sat May 23, 2020 11:10 am

scimjim wrote:
Sat May 23, 2020 9:57 am
The original number plate light has a hex headed screw securing the cover, so you can replace the bulb without removing the whole lot.
I did look at that, and whether the light is in a different position when a tow-bar is fitted I don't know but access to the screw looked impossible on mine with normal-sized hands :? Tucked inside the 'C' of the bumper.


Scimitar GTE 5a 1973, kinda Highland Purple; after months of work, still a ruin!
I can't help myself - I have to ask questions and find out why. Why ? Dunno :shock:

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Post by scimjim » Sat May 23, 2020 11:17 am

It’s a bit further out with a towbar, that may be the problem.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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adamwilkes
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Post by adamwilkes » Sat May 23, 2020 9:02 pm

I treated the Scimitar to all new petrol hoses today :D The hose is Cohline 8mm (7.3mm inside diameter in fact), immune to all modern petrol fuels and their ethanol additive. Not cheap, but it feels tough and good to use; perfect size for the Scimitar. As philhoward mentioned in another topic, one metre is more than enough to replace the existing hoses, including the short length from the top of the tank to the plastic pipe. Proper petrol hose clips/clamps used (13-15mm size, but a millimetre or two smaller would be as good) - hopefully reliable for many years to come!
cohline fuel pipes.JPG
cohline fuel pipes.JPG (185.13 KiB) Viewed 174 times


Scimitar GTE 5a 1973, kinda Highland Purple; after months of work, still a ruin!
I can't help myself - I have to ask questions and find out why. Why ? Dunno :shock:

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Post by rjudcsx » Sat May 23, 2020 9:51 pm

Just looking at your hose ,do you know the difference between hose type 2134 and 2240 ,are they the same just different serial numbers or a totally different quality /application . I enquire as I am doing some work under the car and intend to check the hoses whilst she is up in the air and get some replacements if required , Regards Richard .



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adamwilkes
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Post by adamwilkes » Sat May 23, 2020 10:17 pm

The Cohline retailer's website: https://www.cohpro.com/rubber-hose-and- ... -hose.html doesn't mention the 2134 type :?


Scimitar GTE 5a 1973, kinda Highland Purple; after months of work, still a ruin!
I can't help myself - I have to ask questions and find out why. Why ? Dunno :shock:

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Post by rjudcsx » Sat May 23, 2020 10:40 pm

Sorry Adam just done a bit of research and Cohline 2134 is now re numbered as Cohline 2192 , not to worry I will check again under car on Sunday . Regards Richard.



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Post by philhoward » Sun May 24, 2020 1:44 am

2134 is superseded by 2192; 2192 is OK up to E10, 2240 is OK for 100% Ethanol by the looks of it, as well as having a higher pressure rating.


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Post by adamwilkes » Sun May 24, 2020 9:31 am

Rear electrics: LOTS of work :? Started out being the usual small project plan for a sunny day - "let's clean up the rear lights". Hmmmmm

Fixing nuts for the rear lights (started with the right side lights cluster) were pleasantly un-difficult to undo; brass nuts & bolts :) However, the outer bolt seems to be originally located under the reflector, so the head is inaccesible without removing the reflector from the outside. Who knew ! It doesn't come out :roll: Bolt head had cruched out of that location and was free to wobble around so needed a new home.

After removing the crazily-obscured lens-fixing nuts (a couple of which had corroded into non-existence), the lens came off complete with hole where the one bolt-head should have been located. I just couldn't see a strong solution to locating the head, so devised a steel spacer and drilled straight through to the outside. A longer screw meant that the lens could now be secured properly to the case (via the spacer), and therafter the cluster case to the body. A result, although now showing a screw (bolt) head on the outside :oops: Not 100% sure that was necessary, but it's done (although it's a main fixing point for the red section). The corroded-off securing bolts and some other broken plastic bolt-locators were replaced with new little bolts (screws/machine screws/whatever) and Araldited into place.

rear light units refurb (1).JPG
rear light units refurb (1).JPG (139.82 KiB) Viewed 69 times


The cast-alloy case was a bit corroded, of course, but actually nicely made and good to go again after some work. There was an earthing male spade riveted to the case for the lights when new, and typically had corroded and fallen off, so the ages-old solution had been to solder new wires between all the bulb-holders and the chassis earth-wire; a much more durable solution than relying on the bulb-holders to make contact through their sprung clips. Corrosion from that arrangement was guaranteed between the alloy case and steel springy fixings. I just couldn't leave it like that though, so despite it actually being unnecessary, redundant and a waste of time I drilled out the corroded rivet, cleaned up, greased and re-riveted the original male terminal in place, so that the earth wire could then be plugged in. I left the soldered-in earth connections because that solution is better anyway :lol:

Would it have been easier to have bought new/different light clusters? Yes. But then, it's easier to buy a new car, innit :roll:

The old rubber seals were like biscuit, of course, and needed replacing. Not even considering that these were available new still, I cast around for a respectable alternative and spied some spare laminate-flooring closed-cell under-foam. The remains of the old seals provided a pattern and new seals were cut - double-thickness needed for the cluster-to-body due to something being twisted. Just after I had done this, gtcse8 offered new seals on this forum, punched from the original dies by himself for a good price :o So, if mine fail soon, there is the seals solution!

rear light units refurb (2).JPG
rear light units refurb (2).JPG (128.64 KiB) Viewed 69 times

The reflectors in the alloy case were pretty dire, so I took some fine sandpaper to everything, etch-primed and sprayed with 'chrome' paint I happened to have. I new it wasn't going to be chrome-like, but I knew it would be better than the dull yellow plastic and corroded alloy that had been there before. I sprayed the whole casing, so now the outer edges are silver too :)

rear lights overhaul may 2020 (2).JPG
rear lights overhaul may 2020 (2).JPG (250.04 KiB) Viewed 69 times

The car has had a respray at least once, with badly-prepared paintwork wafted over with cellulose. Flaking paint doesn't seal the water out very well, so the body around the lights was rubbed down, also knowing that at some point I am likely to gloss-roller some 2K Highland Purple over it :wink:

Contacts in the bulb-holders were freshened up with emery paper and greased; new bulbs were used until my stocks ran out, then some good ones were cleaned up.

The body-holes weren't in the right place; the lights cluster sat on the bodywork at the outer top corner :( After some chat on the forum and head-scratching I trimmed the holes in the bodywork to allow some jiggle-room for the cluster and it now fits OK in the (rather tight) recess. No rain yet so no leaks 8)

Basically the same was inflicted on the left lights cluster, plus the body needed some small grp repair behind the cluster before refitting. A bunch of crimped inline connectors to the screen-heater etc were spotted behind the left lights, plus a horrid rats-nest of connectors inside the left boot cubby so they would need sorting :? One job leads to another - like a complex treasure-hunt :lol:

rear lights overhaul may 2020 (1).JPG
rear lights overhaul may 2020 (1).JPG (219.71 KiB) Viewed 69 times
Rear wiring sort-out 16 May 2020 (1).JPG
Rear wiring sort-out 16 May 2020 (1).JPG (283.76 KiB) Viewed 69 times
Last edited by adamwilkes on Sun May 24, 2020 11:40 am, edited 2 times in total.


Scimitar GTE 5a 1973, kinda Highland Purple; after months of work, still a ruin!
I can't help myself - I have to ask questions and find out why. Why ? Dunno :shock:

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scimjim
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Post by scimjim » Sun May 24, 2020 10:13 am

adamwilkes wrote:
Sun May 24, 2020 9:31 am
Just after I had done this, gtcse8 offered new seals on this forum, punched from the original dies by himself for a good price
Mark has had the dies for many years but doesn’t advertise much. Always best to ask first 😀


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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