SE6a USM 99T

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

Moderators: scimjim, Lukeyboy46, erikscimitardemon, Roger Pennington, philhoward

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 430
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 26 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Wed Nov 06, 2019 6:53 pm

well, my thread has never been so active! :shock:

its always interesting to hear/read other people views. every day is a school day. it seems my "copper " pipe may well be 5/16 Copper nickle... but after you read below i will need to buy more anyway.

i had a spare hour so thought would look at positioning the fuel pump and remove the old lines. i found a few interesting things out. i removed the "supply" pipe line from an aftermarket fuel filter at the tank to the engine pulling from twin pipe clips fastened to the chassis. around the gearbox area the pipes disappear from view for about 6-8 inches. guess what? the pipes cross over in there... so the filter is actually on the return line.. god knows what that has been doing. problem 2. the return line was crushed in a few of the clips. but the biggest issue was when i took the front metal pipe off the engine block... as soon as i touched the rubber this happened. i am ashamed to say i didn't change all the hoses when everyone told me too... looks like i found the issue. the amazing thing was it wasn't leaking!!
fuel line 1.jpg
fuel line 1.jpg (58.05 KiB) Viewed 946 times
fuel line 2.jpg
fuel line 2.jpg (31.04 KiB) Viewed 946 times
so that's that understood.. new rubber, new fuel feed and return line required... back to the computer to get ordering. i really should listen to people more often.

many thanks, Ian


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

gtcse8
RSSOC Member
Posts: 2724
Joined: Fri Apr 24, 2009 10:11 am
Location: Steeton, Yorkshire Dales
Has thanked: 64 times
Been thanked: 199 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by gtcse8 » Thu Nov 07, 2019 8:11 am

Judging by the spring clip that`s the original factory rubber.


Mark Wilson. Garage sale everything must go. :cry: SE5a`s, GTC, SE6b`s, Triumph Daytona, Honda CB750 K7. Also on YouTube :wink: lookup V8 Chevy https://youtu.be/lbpvDGAMY6g

User avatar
Roger Pennington
RSSOC Member
Posts: 20321
Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:43 pm
Has thanked: 168 times
Been thanked: 565 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Roger Pennington » Thu Nov 07, 2019 3:52 pm

Could well be, certainly looks well past it's use-by date! :shock:


....Roger

RSSOC member (since 1982)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Image

"Condition can be bought at any time; Originality, once lost, is gone forever" - Doug Nye

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 430
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 26 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Fri Apr 03, 2020 8:43 am

good morning all.

I have done a little work on the car and an update is below. I also have a few questions regarding the cooling system but will start a separate thread for that.

Sadly I am still having to work full time at the UK factory as we support the Healthcare and Pharma/scientific community so not as much time as I would have liked to dedicate to garage activity... :lol:

anyway... fuel lines now all replaced with CuNifer and top rated hoses. All clipped in place. Filter king filter and pressure regulator fitted and pressure set to 3PSI.

Pump fitted in the nearside rear cubby hole in the boot area. Fused relay and crash switch fitted. Missile type switch fitted in dash to activate the pump with a small warning light also that comes on if the crash switch activates (maybe large potholes could activate?? but thought worthwhile so I dont come to a grinding halt).

Pump working fine, but ordered some rubber isolating mounts as the vibration is quite loud despite foam lining beneath the pump. Picture below was trial fit so dont berate my wiring please. 8)

set the fuel pressure as mentioned to 3 psi.

the great news is that when i powered up the car it started first spin. running a treat so I am very happy.

so some pictures below of progress.
electric fuel pump1.jpg
pump/relay/crash switch
electric fuel pump1.jpg (62.98 KiB) Viewed 544 times
regulator.jpg
filter and regulator engine bay
regulator.jpg (64.58 KiB) Viewed 544 times
Pressure regulator2.jpg
connection for pressure gauge
Pressure regulator2.jpg (63.67 KiB) Viewed 544 times
right off to do my cooling questions for you all to peruse!

take care all, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 430
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 26 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Sat May 09, 2020 1:00 pm

good afternoon all,

i have started the job of replacing my timing gear with one of RR alloy and steel sets. looks fabulous. i followed the excellent guide on the how to that Jim has updated. also great. the only thing that i personally found i had to do on this car compared to the notes (primarily SE5/a i think) was remove the steering pump pulley belt and also the crank front pulley wheel, as i just couldnt get anything onto the crank bolt, and be able to undo it, without doing this. the steering rack was in the way and preventing a good clean socket fit on the bolt. but everything else was perfect.

i found that the best way to undo both the crank bolt and the timing wheel bolt was using this handy tool .
timing gear replacement 1.jpg
air wrench
timing gear replacement 1.jpg (111.46 KiB) Viewed 439 times
i put all the timing case bolts into a cardboard template as i wont probably be finishing the job for a few days... just sneaking time when i can.
timing gear replacement 2.jpg
template
timing gear replacement 2.jpg (63 KiB) Viewed 439 times
the timing wheel itself is remarkably good condition, but better safe than sorry i guess, and is now off the car after a bit of cussing and prodigious use of pry bars wiggling back and forwards for about 10 minutes.
timing gear replacement 4.jpg
timing gear off
timing gear replacement 4.jpg (76.86 KiB) Viewed 439 times
but i do have a few questions if anyone can help?

1.. when i removed the timing gear and fuel pump cam there was no washer in place. is there a certain thickness i should look for when i rebuild it?

2. i will need a puller to remove the crank gear. what sort do people use? there isnt a lot of room between the crank gear and the steering rack (see below) and my old school pullers wont fit.. :cry:

3. if i just replace the front section of the sump gasket do i cut it flush to the block, or am i just being lazy and tight not wanting to take it off and change the oil?
timing gear replacement 3.jpg
not a lot of room
timing gear replacement 3.jpg (73.06 KiB) Viewed 439 times
thanks for any comments or help. off to work outside in the sun for a bit now.

cheers all and stay safe, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 39506
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 167 times
Been thanked: 1172 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by scimjim » Sat May 09, 2020 8:09 pm

I’ve updated the “how to” with the PAS specific bits, thanks.

There’s no washer under the camwheel bolt.
Have you tried levering the crank wheel with screwdrivers? Standard 3 legged puller should fit.
I’d have no qualms about just replacing the front bit of gasket if I didn’t need to change the oil and the greasiest was previously oil tight. Yes, cut flush to block, cut new bit to match and use a smidge of hylomar (allowed to dry off).


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 430
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 26 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Sun May 10, 2020 1:03 pm

Thanks Jim

I have access to other pullers at work so will use one of them. I only mention the washer as the removal write up mentions timing wheel large washer and fuel cam? Or am I confused? Easily done.

Will do the part gasket as the remainder is oil tight. Much appreciated. Cleaning up bits and bobs today prior to refitting. I realise now I should have bought a larger air compressor, or at least larger tank, as it continually runs when I use air tools like grinder etc. Live and learn.

Cheers, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

User avatar
scimjim
RSSOC Member
Posts: 39506
Joined: Sun Oct 01, 2006 10:08 pm
Location: Gloucester
Has thanked: 167 times
Been thanked: 1172 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by scimjim » Sun May 10, 2020 7:03 pm

Tinker man wrote:
Sun May 10, 2020 1:03 pm
I only mention the washer as the removal write up mentions timing wheel large washer and fuel cam? Or am I confused? Easily done.
ah, okay - checked the parts list and there’s definitely no washer there - I suspect it was a copy and paste from the crank pulley in the original document?


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 430
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 26 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Mon May 11, 2020 9:11 am

Yes, that could well be the case Jim.

Good to know its OK and nothing missing anyway.

just as a small update i managed to remove the crank gear with a puller in the end but the two pictures below hopefully show the issue with the steering rack.

to get a puller onto the crank bolt in line there is a restriction on the size of the puller itself (if that makes sense). the total space available is 6.5 inches.

i was able to bodge something together, but only a two legged one.
crank puller 1.jpg
space available
crank puller 1.jpg (78.01 KiB) Viewed 300 times
crank gear puller 2.jpg
measurements of puller
crank gear puller 2.jpg (56.97 KiB) Viewed 300 times
it may be useful for someone at some point.

so both gears are now off.. will get the new ones on this week.. more to follow. thanks, Ian.


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Smithy Se6
RSSOC Member
Posts: 11
Joined: Mon Jun 24, 2013 10:45 am
Been thanked: 1 time

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Smithy Se6 » Fri May 22, 2020 10:37 pm

can I ask a question about your fuel pump fitted in the boot cubby hole, is it used to just prime the system or does it run permanently? The reason for my question is I have a solid state electric fuel pump in the engine bay and I can hear it ticking away when driving. An electric fuel pump seems to be the way to go, but I am looking for a quieter option. Thanks.



Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 430
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 26 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Tue May 26, 2020 8:09 am

Sorry Smithy, i didn't see this question... I run it permanently but it isn't the quietest to be fair. even though rubber mounted it still "thrumms" if that's the best word for it. but when running it isn't that noticeable. may be better on a chassis steel, though i dont know to be honest. what i do know is that it makes starting up a lot quicker. first turn and no wait to prime (if using car regularly i guess this isn't an issue, but i dont start it from one week to the next).

I hope that is of some use to you. cheers


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 430
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 26 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Tue May 26, 2020 8:17 am

so a quick update for the records. Timing gear fitted and all put back together. started second turn and is actually very quiet compared to what i was expecting.. very happy.

its was a royal pain getting the timing cover back on without dislodging gaskets and then getting sump bolts in especially on my own. you need 15ft arms.... even with some sticky stuff holding things in place. there must have been an easier way, but its done now. a little bit of black paint on a few bits that were taken off has smartened it a little, but actually made everything else under the hood look tatty.. a couple of new jobs to do now (as there always is when you move things... another post on those shortly).

but overall happy that the job is done and sounding great.

cheers, Ian.
timing gear fitted.jpg
shiny and located
timing gear fitted.jpg (55.18 KiB) Viewed 122 times
timing up and running.jpg
up and running
timing up and running.jpg (113.83 KiB) Viewed 122 times


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

User avatar
TrevorG
RSSOC Member
Posts: 641
Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2012 9:09 am
Location: Thomas chapel in Pembrokeshire
Has thanked: 35 times
Been thanked: 44 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by TrevorG » Tue May 26, 2020 8:25 am

Yeah, another Rewpot! I wonder how many of us are still using them?



Tinker man
RSSOC Member
Posts: 430
Joined: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:39 am
Location: Davenham Cheshire
Has thanked: 21 times
Been thanked: 26 times

SE6a USM 99T

Post by Tinker man » Tue May 26, 2020 9:07 am

:D

i do not know if they are effective or not, there is lots of views on here i have seen. some like them, some dont think they are necessary, some go to the SE5/a set up. i have left it alone as that's how it was when i got it!

having said that i have changed other stuff, such as fuel pump... again many views.

cheers


If it is made of nuts and bolts I WILL take it apart..... going back together is a whole different ball game

User avatar
adamwilkes
RSSOC Member
Posts: 187
Joined: Thu Dec 26, 2019 9:01 am
Location: Poole, Dorset
Has thanked: 53 times
Been thanked: 9 times
Contact:

SE6a USM 99T

Post by adamwilkes » Tue May 26, 2020 12:03 pm

Is changing the fuel pump to electric much of an advantage? Reliability reasons I guess - but are they more so than the original (or a new original anyway) ? I see that priming the carb if the float bowls contents have evaporated is a brief advantage, but enough to warrant the change-over?


Adam Wilkes
Scimitar GTE 5a 1973, kinda Highland Purple; after months of work, still a ruin!
I can't help myself - I have to ask questions and find out why. Why ? Dunno :shock:

Post Reply

Return to “Project Progress”