G130 YCF my first sprint car

[stevecrosby63]

i honestly dont know, but the reliant shafts should fit the diff. If you used the flanged setup i'm guessing you would need new drive shafts made to suit ?

[reliant-reviver]

That is the joy of the Quaife. No need to alter the driveshafts, just a straight swap. The tripod joints are strong and reliable enough when used through their normal range of movement.

If for some reason you did want bolt on libro joints with hybrid shafts then you can buy the flanges from Quaife to suit libro joints, but they are 300 a pair IIRC!

[Corky]

Cheers, I have few diffs and drive shafts on the shelf, so could copy Steve’s install if I decide to. I butchered those on the car to fit the flanged Sierra LSD. Looking forward to seeing “how you done it” Steve.

[Dcrosby13]

Me too

[Dcrosby13]

Looking forward I mean

[Nick]

I don,t remember a problem with the shafts when fitting a quaiffe, I did cut a small hole in the tub to give access to the top cradle mounting.

[td99]

Standard shafts fit straight into the Quaife when fitted to std diff. Just remember that they are different lengths and which one goes where!

[CNHSS1]

Well (excuses in early )...after all the pre curbs action and since finding out i'm not as young as i used to be...a kicking from that recent flu bug and the weather, ive finally got round to pulling the diff out...pita job i dont really want to do again, but the diff and cradle are out and ready for cleaning, so i'll be stripping it on the bench in the garage and will do a photo write up for anyone thats interested....along with a whole bunch of other stuff including the brake/disc setup. i've pressed the new bearings onto the quaife already, but it seems there ARE differences between the reliant setup and the way ford do it...the drive shafts are not retained by circlips as per the ford manual...explains the spring loading on the reliant setup then

Trilobe driveshafts as reliant aren't retained with circlips, only those using CV shafts as they use a separate flange. Tbh even the flanges don't need circlips as they can't come out of the diff spline unless the dr8veshafts removed.

All sierra non lsd diffs have equal length spline s, so will take trilobes or sierra flanges or quaife flanges. Ford viscous LSDs have a short and long spline left to right.

If using a quaife, use std reliant shafts, or sierra NONE LSD flanges and convert to CVs.

If using a Ford oem viscous lsd you need sierra oem lsd flanges or quaife flanges

Is there an option to use the flange setup (as per 7” Sierra 3:62 viscous LSD) ?

[Dcrosby13]

Ok so Steve left me with the simple task of cleaning and degreasing the differential casing before he performed the disassembly and I got a bit carried away. he's most likely going to shout at me and I'm sure I have made some mistakes given I have literally winged it, I have no idea what I'm doing but I was bored.....

He had already removed the assembly from the car so I started by removing the cradle which is only held on with a few bolts, I cheated and used the impact wrench as its now my new favourite tool, the angle grinder has now been relegated to second place:

IMG_20181014_124815 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

Having spent a few minutes with some degreaser I got bored and pulled the drive shafts off as they literally slide out no bolts in the way and stuck it in the vice.

IMG_20181014_132243 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

All but one of the cover bolts came out without a fight, the one with the aluminium tag was a bugger but came out eventually, I must say I'm really not a fan of these torx bolts as the bits themselves always seem to twist when applying lots of force. Ford clearly was not thinking of long-term serviceability when they decided to use those.

IMG_20181014_133234 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

IMG_20181014_133240 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

IMG_20181014_133359 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

If you are wondering why the diff is still full of oil at this stage it was due to a mangled (bl**dy torx) drain plug, I had to use my second favourite tool to cut some slots and grab the biggest shifter I could find to remove:

IMG_20181014_133255 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

IMG_20181014_143300 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

Having emptied the oil I stuck the diff back in the vice and cleaned the faces of the teeth held by the locking tabs as a reference, I figure this will help Steve when he's putting it back together, in hindsight I'm sure he's going to ask me how many turns it took to remove the drive shaft collar thingies (no idea what they are actually called) but in my usual bull in a china shop approach I did not record that as I was having way too much fun to be bothered with the detail:

IMG_20181014_134104 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

I figured the next step would involve the tool that Craig kindly lent us based on its shape alone

IMG_20181014_134727 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

Using the lefty lucy approach I was left with one of these per side, I did pay careful thought to ensuring I knew which one had come from which side, they also are numbered one and two:

IMG_20181014_134843 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

Once removed the holes left behind looks like this:

IMG_20181014_134847 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr
IMG_20181014_135117 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

I thought all things considered now would be a good time to remove the differential guts (again no idea what the technical term for this bit is)

IMG_20181014_135159 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

A few minutes with some blue roll and this is what remains:

IMG_20181014_135906 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

I figured it would be worth removing the oil seals from the drive shaft collars, normally I would use a big socket to bash them out but unfortunately, my biggest was not big enough:

IMG_20181014_140136 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

So I resorted to something pointy:

IMG_20181014_140543 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

this is what the collars look like post seal removal, I have deliberately left the bearing seats for Steve to remove as I will damage something beyond repair if I do it and I would image the surface will need to be thoroughly cleaned and smooth before replacing the oil seals:

IMG_20181014_140834 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

next, I turned my attention to removing the crown wheel from the old diff as the Quaife does not come with one, this is about the only name I'm sure of and yes I know as the son of an engineer I should be ashamed. I cheated and used my favourite tool to remove these bolts as I did not want to wrestle something oil on the bench:

IMG_20181014_142159 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

IMG_20181014_142204 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

The crown wheel appeared to be an interference fit so I had to improvise and use a blunt object to tap it off, I decided the best approach would be to tap it at a few points gently rather than contiunally in one spot:

IMG_20181014_142406 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr
IMG_20181014_142411 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

It didnt take much force to remove:

IMG_20181014_142455 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr
IMG_20181014_142728 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

I then offered the wheel up to the Quaife, I gave the wheel a good clean but again due to the tolerances it took some taping to get the crown wheel in the correct position, I used the flat bit closest to the differential body to tap on rather than the teeth ensuring that the bolt holes lined up and that it was fairly level, even then it was only just enough to engage the bolt threads. The reason I paid careful attention to this bit is that the bolts themselves are very short and I wanted to make sure bolts opposite would also engage enough to pull the crown wheel home if you get it wrong it's going to involve a lot of bashing and potentially damage to get them back off again. I picked four bolts opposite each other and tightened them slowly in a cross pattern until the crown wheel was all the way home.

IMG_20181014_145658 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr
IMG_20181014_145710 by Darryl Crosby, on Flickr

I decided that at this point the job was best left to the engineer as I had pushed my luck far enough, the bolts holding the crown wheel have not been fully torqued as I was not sure if these needed to have thread lock on them or not or indeed what the correct torque settings are.

[stevecrosby63]

Well done that man...about the only thing i would have done different would be to put the crown wheel in the oven for an hour at 100 c and used the 4 bolts to pull it on, the book says to use new bolts (available from burtons at £1.50 each ) but thats not a bother. The job is almost done at this point. remove the bearing outers, fit the new ones and screw the collars in...fit new seals...set the backlash...job finished...so you can finish it and i'll advise

[Dcrosby13]

Yes I did wonder about cooling or heating bits but pulling the crown wheel down felt smooth enough and it didn't take an uncomfortable amount of force, infact there was no resistance.

[Dcrosby13]

All of the bolts with the exception of the drainage plug were in fine fettle so unless they are stretch bolts I don't see any point in replacement?

[CNHSS1]

Nice work Darryl, all my best work is done after approx 3seconds thinking "What could possibly go wrong!" too...

[Dcrosby13]

Yup that's pretty much what happened

[Corky]

Great progress fellas !