se6 chassis and build progress.

If you have a long-term project and would like to share/document progress, this is for you.

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Roger Pennington
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Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:59 am

Fluid failure doesn't measure the fluid in the reservoir. The way it works is that there is a small shuttle piston alongside the main piston in the master cylinder. It's a dual-circuit system, and one circuit bears on each side of the shuttle piston. As long as both circuits are intact, there's an equilibrium, and the piston doesn't move. But if one circuit fails, pressure drops on that circuit, and there's a differential across the shuttle piston, which slides one way or t'other, activating the light. :)


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Post by Dennis Nicholas » Wed Oct 18, 2017 10:52 am

Fluid failure doesn't measure the fluid in the reservoir.

It is worth being aware that there are two different methods of warning light activation in MASTER CYLINDER. As said, when brake pedal pressed and both hydraulic circuits of the dual system are intact then the piston stays central. the double ended piston has EITHER A GROVE IN THE MIDDLE OR A PROTRUDING RIDGE so that if one hydraulic system leaks then the piston moves and either THE PLUNGER OF THE SWITCH MOVES OUT OF THE GROVE AND OUTWARDS TO MAKE SWITCH CONTACTS for warning, OR, THE PLUNGER COMES OFF THE TOP OF THE RIDGE AND DROPS ONTO THE PISTON again closing contacts. When I last fitted a new master cylinder I had one type already on the car and the new one was the other type. I can't remember how I got over it but it was fairly easy......maybe just changing from one type of switch to the other? A look at the piston or remove the switch and look in the opening will tell which you have.

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Post by Roger Pennington » Wed Oct 18, 2017 11:51 am

AFAIK replacement master cylinders always come with switches fitted, so I wouldn't have thought that would normally be of any concern? It would only matter if you wanted to change the switch for some reason? I have a feeling the plug connection has changed over time, it's probably easier to change the connectors if that's the case?


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Post by Datsundrew » Fri Oct 27, 2017 10:45 pm

I found the little plug on the master cylinder! I didn't disconnect it so it has been off ages, back on now.
When will it ever end?? I've spent all day tidying wiring, and working out new wiring I'm adding and keeping it neat. I decided to run conduit from the inner wing on the driver side and outbthe side of the kick panel area. As you will know, all the wiring goes to the near side where the loom is and then into the car, so adding new cables means it's a long way around. Adding the conduit gives me a short cut, plus there is plenty of room for relays and extra fuses in the area in front of the servo.
As I'm running a 130a alternator I've added a nice beefy cable to the battery , but the old alternator cables are still there and live, so these cables should be ideal feeds to run through a fuse box and power the cooling fan and the heated screen, ideal!
I had issues with the steering shaft being very close to the turbo. The tube that holds the column in was loose so I decided to file the hole out and weld a plate so that it can be located away from the turbo a bit. The steering is now all assembled and I'm happy.
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Post by Datsundrew » Wed Nov 01, 2017 8:21 pm

Delivery today of exhaust parts that I ordered, forgot to take a pic, but I've got it all cut, tacked together and fitted to the car, it's looking ok so far, and with the 2 boxes it has a nice sound to it. Will get it welded up this weekend and get some pics up.



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Post by efi_sprintgte » Wed Nov 01, 2017 8:22 pm

Good job :)



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Post by Datsundrew » Fri Nov 03, 2017 6:54 pm

I had an afternoon off today so got a bit more achieved, although looking at it today it's a total mess.
I realised that I've e got to a point where everything I'm trying to achieve relies on having good electrics, a plan, and relocation of the battery. Seeing as there is just not the room to have the battery at the front, I've moved it to the back. A nice big battery, 130A alternator, and beefy cables. I found some nice thick stainless steel and set about making a battery tray to fit in the back. Once I've got the rear panels sorted out, I'll make a cover to go over the top. Having been running it up and down the garden on dodgy jump leads it's good to hav e it go on the key! It really spins over now.
The mess....
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Post by Datsundrew » Fri Nov 03, 2017 6:56 pm

The battery tray, and the slave cylinder access hole to cover.....
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Post by Datsundrew » Sat Nov 18, 2017 8:17 pm

I had an afternoon of wiring again today, most things are now working, but the hazards, which did work have stopped. Spent ages checking earths, and then found that the fuse had blown! A lot of scotch locks have been removed for the tow bar ( I'll solder new in properly when I need the tow bar) and only the number plate and fog lights to connect. The car originally had a blue wire scotched on to the brake switch and back to the rear loom to supply brake lights......nice bodge! Found the wire at the back and added a new connector and it worked......then stopped. Turns out the brake switch has now given up. :oops:
I've fitted an adjustable capillary temperature switch and fitted the 'bulb' to a bottom hose connector, and mounted the switch on the fan housing, looks ok, and will have to run it hot to set the switch on temp. I've not yet traced the original otter switch wire, there are a few spare at the front and I'm also missing the horn. Otter should be green......can anyone tell me if it's a constant live, or ignition fed? I've such a huge fan I don't want it to run without the ignition.



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Post by scimjim » Sat Nov 18, 2017 8:37 pm

Otter is ignition switched as standard - wiring diagram here


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Post by philhoward » Sat Nov 18, 2017 9:08 pm

If you buy a new brake light switch (standard Lucas fayre), the current batch aren’t made to the same standards as old and have a tendency to try and return to their component parts - nothing that can’t be fixed with a few strategically placed tywraps as soon as you get it out of the box.


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Post by Datsundrew » Sat Nov 18, 2017 9:31 pm

Brilliant, thanks guys! I'll be having another session tomorrow . I've got a brake switch out of a ssangyong musso ( which gave its engine for this project) it looks similar type, but much more robust so I'll give that a go!



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Post by Datsundrew » Sun Nov 19, 2017 10:09 pm

All day spent on it today! I swapped the brake switch for the ssangyong one, it's far better quality, which considering that ssangyong are up there with the kings of crap, it makes the original very shoddy indeed!
The cooling fan is all wired in and works well, I found the horn wires and fitted a horn, and wired in the fog lights.......so this now means all the lights are working, when I want them to, and all at the same time if I so desire. It's a miracle.
I connected up the electric windows, and to my amazement they not only worked, but at a good speed, so my new earthing strategy has paid off :D



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Post by Datsundrew » Sun Nov 19, 2017 10:12 pm

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. As you see, the ssangyong job is bigger, and just a better job...



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Post by Datsundrew » Sun Nov 19, 2017 10:32 pm

The next issue I have is the wipers. The wheel boxes were replaced by the previous owner, but the wipers are slow on first speed, but when turned to the second speed they grind to a halt. The motor just appears to be weak, is this common? If so is it just the usual clean up, check brushes, lubricate etc?



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