Body Removal - where are the bolts?

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Body Removal - where are the bolts?

Post by Jonny M » Tue Jun 22, 2010 10:04 pm

Hi guys - I'm hoping to get an extra pair of hands to help me get the body off in our workshop on Friday - overhead cranes and in house shotblasters are great !!

But - will only have about 4 hours. The car is mostly stripped, no engine, steering, electrics, or interior.

I've found an old post which is helpful, but ideally it would be great if anyone could offer a FULL list of all the bolts I need to grind off, with a picture map would be great.

What's the score with the roll bar - do I need to cut off from underneath, are the rest from inside the car?

Jon
Last edited by Jonny M on Fri Sep 03, 2010 9:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.


1969 Coupe....in bits
1969 GTE....dead :(
1973 GTE..buggered, now becoming a hot rod instead
1974 SE5a - at last one that works :)

plus, an AC Cobra replica for the sunny days, and, a disappointed missus !
(Update, she left, so I bought another Scimitar!)

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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by scimjim » Tue Jun 22, 2010 10:16 pm

Ok, here it is written slightly differently - maybe Mick could check it for me?

Front bumper cross member support plate - remove spare wheel tray and rad side plates - bumpers will come off with bodyshell
Top turret support plates - 2 bolts each side by fuse box & expansion tank
Front outrigger bolts 2 each side in footwell
Centre chassis support bolts 2 front 2 rear by centre console (I'm not sure where these are?)
Centre seat belt support bracket bolts 2 bolts each side - 1 bracket is inside, the other is under the car (don't ask me why :roll: )
Seat belt inertia reel bolts 1 bolt each side
roll bar bracket bolts 2 nuts/bolts each side
rear centre rail bolts behind rear seat folding squab 2 bolts each side
rear chassis support mounts in rear boot floor section 8 total
Rear bumper support bolts 1 each side
rear number plate holder bolts x 2 (I'm not sure why these need to come off?)
Petrol filler rubber pipe
fuel sender electrics
overdrive & reverse light switch electrics if fitted (3 way switch on early cars, solenoid wire, inhibit switch & reverse light switch on later cars)
handbrake cable support plate
gearbox speedo drive cable
rear washer pipe
earth sraps for rear lights
gearbox earth strap
Windscreen washer pipe
Clutch and Brake pipes
Steering column joint
Front earthing strap
Starter motor lead
If fitted manual choke cable
Accelerator cable
Brake servo to inlet manifold pipe
2 x heater hoses
Lift front of car to 45 degree angle to clear front turrets, check for stray electric cables etc and then walk bodyshell backwards or roll the chassis forwards to clear the rear chassis support plate that extends into the bodyshell behind the rear bumper.
Job done time for beer
Last edited by scimjim on Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:28 am, edited 2 times in total.


Jim King

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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by SteveyC » Tue Jun 22, 2010 11:21 pm

I counted 32 bolts correct?
32 each side!!???
Plus all ancillaries.

Is there a sealant strip/adhesive too. I have similar plans for mine.


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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by scimjim » Wed Jun 23, 2010 7:27 am

I think the roll bar has 2 each side but most other numbers are total. It's not 32 because things like the front bumper crossmember require the rad surround removing - I'll edit the list above slightly.

The rubber insulation strip isn't glued to the body.
Last edited by scimjim on Wed Jun 23, 2010 8:26 am, edited 1 time in total.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
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1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by philhoward » Wed Jun 23, 2010 7:58 am

scimjim wrote: The rubber insulation strip isn't glued to the body.
..although it might seem like it when it comes to lifting time!


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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by Jonny M » Wed Jun 23, 2010 1:05 pm

Brill - time to get the grinder out !


1969 Coupe....in bits
1969 GTE....dead :(
1973 GTE..buggered, now becoming a hot rod instead
1974 SE5a - at last one that works :)

plus, an AC Cobra replica for the sunny days, and, a disappointed missus !
(Update, she left, so I bought another Scimitar!)

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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by mikerf » Wed Jun 23, 2010 3:42 pm

I can also recommend the use of a pad saw with a coarse blade. I lifted the body slightly and then got underneath and ran the pad saw over the tops of all the rails. It was great for cutting through the body insulation and for identifying where any remaining bolts were.



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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by scimjim » Wed Jun 23, 2010 5:48 pm

and probably won't generate as much heat to melt the GRP?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by Jonny M » Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:36 pm

Body's off !

Two 10t cranes, a big factory and a time served helpful engineer who used to have a Simitar DID help - a lot !

Main chassis looks OK, but new out riggers needed - where's best to buy, or cheaper to fabricate ?

Jon
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1969 Coupe....in bits
1969 GTE....dead :(
1973 GTE..buggered, now becoming a hot rod instead
1974 SE5a - at last one that works :)

plus, an AC Cobra replica for the sunny days, and, a disappointed missus !
(Update, she left, so I bought another Scimitar!)

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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by Roger Pennington » Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:59 pm

Very impressive setup!

The front "spring/damper units" look like they would have given a rather "vintage" hard ride! :shock: :shock: :lol:

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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by SteveyC » Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:38 pm

Haha, very neatly done.

A strange masochistic side of me can't wait to have a go at doing it myself without any of the gizmotry seen here. Scaffold bar and a trolley jack I suspect and some helpers. Hmmm maybe that makes it a sadomasochistic side of me then.

Incidentally, if you lopped all heads off bolts. where are you sourcing replacements and how much are they costing? Stainless Steel?
Do you have to get a new rubber strip too or should the old one be ok to re-use?


'76 SE6a manual overdrive and '78 SE6a awaiting reinstatement.

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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by scimjim » Fri Jun 25, 2010 11:54 pm

outriggers and side rails are available from the traders. Personally I fabricated my own last time I did that job. If I was doing it again, I'd probably use square section and rustproof properly. What are your plans - full monty with galvanised chassis or straight refurb?


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by Jonny M » Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:24 pm

SteveyC wrote:Incidentally, if you lopped all heads off bolts. where are you sourcing replacements and how much are they costing? Stainless Steel?
Do you have to get a new rubber strip too or should the old one be ok to re-use?
Not thought that far ahead yet, but we do have a large stock of st/st nuts and bolts in work, so suspect I may be raiding our parts...again !

Only bit I'm a worried over is the middle out rigger seemed to have 2 bolts that I think go into some type of roll bar on the pillars - but whatever pointed upwards had totally corroded - can anyone shed any light on this / offer a solution ?
scimjim wrote:outriggers and side rails are available from the traders. Personally I fabricated my own last time I did that job. If I was doing it again, I'd probably use square section and rustproof properly. What are your plans - full monty with galvanised chassis or straight refurb?
Money is short, plus we have a shot blaster, welding bay, and paint shop in work. I'd like galv, but the practicality of just moving around the workshops (for beer money hopefully) I think will win over costly galv.

The engineer who helped me suggested box section as it would increase side impace protection, so think that will be my plan for the outer rails - was going to make my life a bit easier by buying the riggers from somewhere instead though; but don't know where from or how much they'll cost ?

Jon


1969 Coupe....in bits
1969 GTE....dead :(
1973 GTE..buggered, now becoming a hot rod instead
1974 SE5a - at last one that works :)

plus, an AC Cobra replica for the sunny days, and, a disappointed missus !
(Update, she left, so I bought another Scimitar!)

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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by Roger Pennington » Sat Jun 26, 2010 11:40 pm

Jonny M wrote:Only bit I'm a worried over is the middle out rigger seemed to have 2 bolts that I think go into some type of roll bar on the pillars - but whatever pointed upwards had totally corroded - can anyone shed any light on this / offer a solution ?
Rust in the bases of the B-pillar roll bars is quite a common problem - if you do a search you'll find a number of posts about it try these two for starters:

Thread 1

Thread 2

These particular examples do both relate to Se6/8 cars but the principles are the same

...Roger


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Re: Body Removal - where are the bolts ?

Post by scimjim » Sun Jun 27, 2010 7:57 am

IMHO if you keep the car you never have to worry about the chassis again - if you sell it, you will increase its value by much more than the cost of galving.

If you can get paint at work it may be cheaper but in normal situations how much would you spend on primer, paint & waxoyl? I had a Range/Land Rover hybrid chassis galvanised for £100.


Jim King

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), Sabre/MX5 auto (The Flying Broomstick),
1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
CURE THE FAULT - NOT THE SYMPTOMS

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