Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by scimjim » Fri Mar 27, 2020 11:17 am

As long as the wires are insulated and/or not touching the metalwork etc.


Jim King

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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by scimifunze » Fri Mar 27, 2020 11:28 am

Thanks, sound good - it just to identify which consumer attached.
Of course will make safe no shorting.



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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by scimifunze » Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:59 pm

scimifunze wrote:
Tue Mar 24, 2020 5:10 pm
# 6 - Ballast resistor - need to check understand why only one side connected ...assume I cannot take it off !? (simplifying).
CLARIFIED (not really): Found service bill from Peter Thetford (www.thetfords.com) saying "BERU ZS 109 ignition coil fitted, altering wiring to ballast resistor to faciliate quick change between ballast and non-ballast coils.
Last edited by scimifunze on Fri Mar 27, 2020 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by gtcse8 » Fri Mar 27, 2020 1:06 pm

scimifunze wrote:
Fri Mar 27, 2020 12:59 pm
BERU ZS 109 ignition coil fitted, altering wiring to ballast resistor to faciliate quick change between ballast and non-ballast coils.
What a load of Tosh :roll:

The 5a has an integrated Resistor in the wiring loom, called a Eureka Wire.
Why fit a NON BALLASTED coil along with a remote BALLAST RESISTOR ?, don`t make sense.


Mark Wilson. Garage sale everything must go. :cry: SE5a`s, GTC, SE6b`s, Triumph Daytona, Honda CB750 K7. Also on YouTube :wink: lookup RELIANT SCIMITAR V8 CONVERSION & billy no mates, Single Rat

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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by scimifunze » Fri Mar 27, 2020 5:17 pm

Ya, it drivin me crazy.
The "BERU ZS 109" coil says: .... see picture.

Or it has somehow to-do with the fact it having a LUMENITION OPTRONIC ignition - but nothing mentioned in original fitting procedure...
However my ballast resistor is only connected one one side, where off the black cable goes to the ignition coil (the both red cables need to find out what for)

I don `t get it. Think need to get me help from an versatile car electrician as my electric knowledge is very basic.
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BERU_ZS_109.png
BERU_ZS_109.png (359.88 KiB) Viewed 312 times
Last edited by scimifunze on Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:50 pm, edited 2 times in total.



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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by scimjim » Fri Mar 27, 2020 5:58 pm

The remote ballast resistor that’s only connected on one side, isn’t connected in circuit. There should be a “eureka wire” in the loom that is a resistor, to drop the running voltage to the coil to around 9v.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by gtcse8 » Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:18 pm

gtcse8 wrote:
Fri Mar 27, 2020 1:06 pm
The 5a has an integrated Resistor in the wiring loom, called a Eureka Wire.
scimjim wrote:
Fri Mar 27, 2020 5:58 pm
There should be a “eureka wire” in the loom that is a resistor
IIRC Lumenition don`t need a resistor as its supposed to regulate the ignition voltage automatically. :w

Yet more information, :!: First notification of what else is fitted :w


Mark Wilson. Garage sale everything must go. :cry: SE5a`s, GTC, SE6b`s, Triumph Daytona, Honda CB750 K7. Also on YouTube :wink: lookup RELIANT SCIMITAR V8 CONVERSION & billy no mates, Single Rat

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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by scimifunze » Fri Mar 27, 2020 6:47 pm

@ Jim: You are right - have just measured the coil (spade side to ignition switch) -> 5.4 V with ignition on / 9.3V with engine running, i. e. ok so far.
@ gtcse8 / Marc: :idea: thanks! that slowly brings light into! ...yes, to met not :w (bucket of worms) ...but more a Hydra :D
... am just reading in "Eureka Wire" https://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/vie ... hp?t=39565

Else fitted:
1. Su electric fuel pump with inertia cut out.
2. there is a "reset switch fitted" in engine bay at bulkhead - I assume this is to reset the inertia cut out of the pump (think that was explained to me from the pre-Owner).
3. Am asking myself if starter solenoid is set up "normal original" as only one terminal used and the small cable obviously detached.
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Last edited by scimifunze on Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.



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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by peter freeman » Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:13 pm

That lead is probably the eureka bypass wire for starting or more likely the solenoid has been done away with and a newer type of starter motor fitted with the solenoid part of it



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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by scimifunze » Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:15 pm

which do you mean - the thick black on the solenoid - or thebelow red-white one?
peter freeman wrote:
Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:13 pm
newer type of starter motor fitted with the solenoid part of it


Ohh! Yes have seen there are quite a few possible setups around this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCs5gAZ ... mb_rel_end

So, in regards to my wish to "clean up" the wiring you think I can take out both, the ballast resistor and the solenoid?
I am not of the ones that need everything on an classic car totally original (if change is of "minor appearance" and provide better reliability). In case doing so, I would do a proper / new re-wiring with as little intermediate connections as possible.
As well I do not like the thick black 12V wire going to the starter as in my case it is routed nasty close to the tubular manifold (without no need to route it like that).



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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by scimifunze » Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:33 pm

I think slowly I am getting into understanding my new British girlfriend (...feels a bit exciting like first time undressing unless you see WYG) :lol:



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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by scimjim » Fri Mar 27, 2020 7:55 pm

The wing mounted solenoid was retained long after pre-engaged (starter mounted) solenoids were fitted. That one has been bypassed by connecting all of the wires together.


Jim King

SECURE DRY STORAGE FOR YOUR SCIMITAR

Current: SE5 (8Ball), TI SS1 (snotty), 1600 SS1 (G97), 1600 SS1 (C686CCR), 2.5TD SE5a (diesel 5a), 6 x random other SS1s.
Previous: SE5, 3 x SE5a, 2 x SE6a, 3 x SE6b, GTC, 2.9i GTC, 3 x 1600 SS1, 1300 SS1, Mk1 Ti Sabre, Mk1.5 CVH Sabre
Chief mechanic for: 1400 K series SS1 (Megan3), 1400 CVH EFi SS1 (Grawpy), 1300 SS1 (Number One) & Sarah's coupe.
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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by peter freeman » Fri Mar 27, 2020 8:12 pm

As Jim says the wing solenoid is redundant and is only being used to junction the cables if you remove it you will either have to fit a longer cable down to the starter or find another way to join the cables together. remember the junction has a lot of current going through it so it needs to be good



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Newbi - asking for clarification on electric components in engine bay SE5a

Post by scimifunze » Fri Mar 27, 2020 8:18 pm

Yes Jim / Peter you are right, THANKS to you and all others FOR ALL THE HELP I GOT THE PAST DAYS !
Now I think I got it understanding my cars electrical setup, at least overall / on the main components and their relation - now I can go into work, exchanging older relay `s / components to new ones AND clean-up the wiring.

My car / findings / :
- has LUMENITION IIRC - i. e. need no ballast resistor - i. e. I will remove the ballast resistor.
- has 12V Ignition coil requiring an 1.8 Ohm ballast resistor - BUT - because the LUMENITION IIRC it doe NOT need a ballast resistor !
- voltage measuring on coil spade side to ignition switch -> 5.4 V with ignition on / 9.3V with engine running, i. e. ok so far.
- has the "old" original separate starter solenoid - but literally it is used now only as terminal (i,. e. have to check if the starter motor assumably changed against one with solenoid on top) - i. e. I will remove the old solenoid and having full new wiring of sufficient section, from the battery to the starter.

For me it is really about simplifying / making the electrics as reliable as possible - think now I am on the right / good way - THANKS AGAIN !


FOUND THIS:
https://www.scimitarweb.co.uk/sgwrs/vie ... hp?t=39565:
peter freeman wrote:
Tue Sep 04, 2018 8:44 pm
The eureka wire/ballast resistor was put there for a reason and that reason is to improve the spark when starting - not need as much when you have a modern system - eg lumenition but it will do no harm, much needed when on the original points system as when churning the engine over the battery voltage drops to about 3/4 of the off load level - and that is when you have a good battery - a few years old and the battery cannot supply the same power. If you are determined to remove it then the easiest way is to run a new wire from the ignition switch to the coil - ( in parallel ) with the loom but you then also have to buy a 12v coil.



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