'A' post repair ? how structural ?

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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by 1969SE5 » Sun Dec 31, 2017 9:25 pm

hi all, stripping for paint, taken of the gutters to find the fibreglass is splitting on the hidden face of the lower 'a' post. Assuming there is more hidden tubing similar to the roll over bar at the 'b' post, can this just be cut out and re-glassed ?

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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by peter freeman » Sun Dec 31, 2017 10:21 pm

You can cut out and re-glass any part of the body - after you have cut out you may find there is a lot more to do though.



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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by scimjim » Sun Dec 31, 2017 11:35 pm

The metal tube goes down the A post and into the wing upper surface.


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by 1969SE5 » Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:56 am

how important is the actual tube ? i was thinking cut open, remove the corroded bit, and re-glass ? i have already done the end of the roll over hoop, and both sills, frustrated only found this today as was concealed :x and with 2 1/2 weeks to go before paint..............


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by scimjim » Mon Jan 01, 2018 2:44 am

It runs from the front wing, all the way back to the C post. I think it supports the windscreen so would replace with metal - the only problem is, how far back does the corrosion go?


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by Roger Pennington » Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:02 pm

Have a look at Darryl's post in his build thread here for pictures of the offending tube :)


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by DarrylWebb » Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:49 pm

Roger has kindly linked to my repair of that section. That tube follows the line of the gutter from the back to the front, then 12" forwards along the top of the front wing.

Hopefully the gutter and seal strip protected it from water ingress?

Personally, I'd start by cleaning the cracked section with a powerfile to see what corrosion lies beneath. If you suspect corrosion further along, make a couple more 1/2" x 1/2" holes in the top of the wing. Try to keep any cuts to the top of the wing and without damaging the profile where it meets the side of the wing. It'll make bodywork repairs easier if you have that profile to work to.

Mine was cracked all the way through, allowing water ingress and major corrosion of the tube, so I had to replace about 14" of tube. I had to go in much deeper and fillering those compound curves took a lot of effort.


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by scimjim » Mon Jan 01, 2018 2:01 pm

I think the gutter is riveted into the tube, so I wouldn’t like to guarantee it being corrosion free. Having said that, I’ve only ever seen them blow along the top of the front wing or the base of the windscreen (visible from the inside on a 6b I did a screen change on).


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by 1969SE5 » Mon Jan 01, 2018 3:53 pm

the tube is deffo rusty, drilling out the rivets for the gutter you could heat the crunch of rotten steel on the bottom rivet. :cry:


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by Coupe Racing » Mon Jan 01, 2018 4:15 pm

If you do cut it all out then I wouldn’t send the car to paint until the repairs had rested and settled.
Sinkage will be a problem


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by scimjim » Mon Jan 01, 2018 5:45 pm

How about using the gutter rivet holes to inject (*desperately thinking of something liquid metal like, that might flow well enough yet set hard enough*) into the tubes?


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by efi_sprintgte » Mon Jan 01, 2018 7:22 pm

scimjim wrote:
Mon Jan 01, 2018 5:45 pm
How about using the gutter rivet holes to inject (*desperately thinking of something liquid metal like, that might flow well enough yet set hard enough*) into the tubes?

Maybe something like this??


https://www.google.com/search?q=evo+sti ... MDM:&isa=y



Possible have to warm it up abit first...


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by tony.idle » Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:46 pm

efi_sprintgte wrote:
Mon Jan 01, 2018 7:22 pm
scimjim wrote:
Mon Jan 01, 2018 5:45 pm
How about using the gutter rivet holes to inject (*desperately thinking of something liquid metal like, that might flow well enough yet set hard enough*) into the tubes?

Maybe something like this??
https://www.google.com/search?q=evo+sti ... MDM:&isa=y



Possible have to warm it up abit first...
A possible problem with anything too 'hard' is that if it prevents body flex the weakened metal might crack or shear. On the two bodies I have cut up the only serious corrosion has been at the known weak points - lower A post and seat belt mounting. Most of the rest was as sound as the day it was bonded in. The gutters aren't riveted to the tube by the way.


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by philhoward » Mon Jan 01, 2018 10:34 pm

The headlining spars screw into the tubes from memory?


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'A' post repair ? how structural ?

Post by tony.idle » Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:13 am

I think you're correct but I can't remember really.


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