Time for a Re Spray

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1969SE5
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Time for a Re Spray

Post by 1969SE5 » Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:54 pm

whats a fair price for a respray these days ? self prepped, and supplying own paint ?

interested to hear you opinions. cheers


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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by peter freeman » Tue Aug 30, 2016 8:28 am

£2,000 is what you would expect to pay in Newcastle - that's a minimum of course.



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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by AJL Electronics » Tue Aug 30, 2016 8:59 am

Assuming your chosen victim is prepared to do it, not knowing what lurks underneath. Some will, with a disclaimer, others will only do it if they handle the prep and supply all materials too. I fall into the first category and I imagine Speedy Dave would have the same attitude. There would be NO warranty whatever on the finished job.


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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by philhoward » Tue Aug 30, 2016 9:15 am

I've seen a few cases of more time being spent "correcting" prep work than if it has been prepped by the person spraying it - that's an outsider looking at the paint threads on here.


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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by 1969SE5 » Tue Aug 30, 2016 11:58 am

And what paint would you use, Base + Laquer ?


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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by AJL Electronics » Tue Aug 30, 2016 12:24 pm

It depends on who does it. Any comercial bodyshop will use waterbased basecoat and then lacquer. Others will use solvent basecoat or even direct gloss for a non metallic.

First coat(s) should be epoxy primer.


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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by peter freeman » Tue Aug 30, 2016 1:34 pm

Paint type depends on what finish you want - metallic needs two pack for best results. Cellulose can also be used but you need to used lacquer that is petrol ( alcohol ) resistant - ask me how I know. Not tried water based paints but thinking about it as I have seen a very nice Jag done with water based.



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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by AJL Electronics » Tue Aug 30, 2016 2:08 pm

For the non commercial user, stick to solvent basecoat. I think commercial users would if they were allowed to. I have used water base and it is slower drying and generally very expensive. Expect £40 per litre plus VAT upwards. The only benefit besides keeping the tree huggers happy, is the way the gun can be cleaned with water.


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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by peter freeman » Tue Aug 30, 2016 2:29 pm

Back to Acrylic or cellulose ? then Andy - going to do my next attempt back to non metallic - probably next year.



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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by AJL Electronics » Tue Aug 30, 2016 2:43 pm

There are various options Peter. If you are going to do it yourself and have no airfed mask, then you have to avoid isocyanate paint. So after preparation to 120 grit, the first step is to spray Lechler epoxy primer as a seal and disclosing coat. You then do all the nicks and pinholes with stopper on top. When happy, another coat of epoxy to seal all that. Opinions vary as to the next step. I say that it is daft to introduce another material, especially one that has the ability to absorb water, by spraying a different primer at this stage. I recommend further coats of epoxy with a different tint for each coat. When it has gone off properly, that can be blocked back and the different tints should help prevent you rubbing through as the colour change will alert you. Final blocking should be done to 400 grit minimum, or 800 grit for clear over base.

Topcoats will as you say, be cellulose or acrylic. There are also some new paints that claim to be non iso 2K. However, my experience of them has not been good. Clear over base is possible as there are acrylic lacquers available. Bear in mind though that the lacquer is not as resilient as 2K and can yellow with age and flake off. The Middlebridge I have in for respray has exactly that problem. Think 1970 Blue Mink and Silver Fox metallics!


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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by peter freeman » Tue Aug 30, 2016 3:12 pm

My car is currently Gold metallic and I will be looking for something of a yellowish gold so I don't have to get the log book amended. The paint did not look too bad until petrol from the filler cap got to it. I re-spray on my drive so have to wait for still air - normally tea time I find. Thanks for the advice which I will save until next years summer - after all the car is not going to rust.



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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by philhoward » Tue Aug 30, 2016 3:22 pm

What about the roller method - didn't Darryl Webb roller his? Took some flatting back I think but no issue with it other than that?


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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by AJL Electronics » Tue Aug 30, 2016 3:23 pm

Jawel have 5l of pealescent gold basecoat on sale for about £75. It is an end of line, so I would buy that and store it.


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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by AJL Electronics » Tue Aug 30, 2016 3:24 pm

philhoward wrote:What about the roller method - didn't Darryl Webb roller his? Took some flatting back I think but no issue with it other than that?
You can roll the primer if you have to. Normal automotive paints don't take kindly to it though, I think he used a synthetic paint which is great until you want to repair or overcoat it. It reacts to everything else!


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Re: Time for a Re Spray

Post by philhoward » Tue Aug 30, 2016 3:27 pm

I think it was rustoleum?


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